All cylinders filling with water

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some one needs to start a poll with all the options...lol
 
fanofpetty said:
what heads are on this engine? I still think theres somthing wrong with the heads....he has the same symptoms as I did when the machine shop bored to deep for the harden'd valve seats,and ruined my heads. I'd be looking very closely at the heads, and removing some valves to take a look. I'm not buying the head clamping issue....it would be leaking water down the outside of the block, I would think.
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Not necessarily IMO. If the clamping pressure wasn't enough and it was indeed taking in water, I think that the water is going to be sucked/pushed through the areas with the least resistance....which would be between the cylinders. There is way more meat between the cylinder and the outside of the block than between the cylinders. Just a thought...I'm prob way off though. lol:colors:
 
The Shocker said:
I agree with you on the timing cover water pump setup .It was one of the first things that came to mind when he originally said the oil was contaminated with water ,but when he said that the cylinders them selves had water on top of the pistons (so much so that it blew out the plug holes when he turned it over) it made me lean towards a leak from the intake.These small block Mopars have a real design flaw with the water passing through the timing cover IMO.I was real anal when i put the front of mine back together after the cam swap ,for that very reason.If it leaks the water goes right into the pan and you cant even see it leaking from the outside .One little pit on any surface near the port ,a gaskets misaligned ,and your done ...
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Right.

Again, the basic premise here is that if BOTH banks are affected then there likely has to be a COMMON source. It's highly unlikely that he had both heads fail in the same manner simultaneously. That kinda narrows things down if you look at it like that. If it was coming from the pan, it would have been an oil/coolant mix. Was it, don't know if he said for sure. If it's straight coolant/water then it's happening above the pan but ending up there after it goes through the chamber.

If this were my nightmare, (thankfully it ain't) I'd be making a list/diagram/flow chart/spread sheet of any common passage or part that could possibly affect both cylinder banks and would then be checking said list of parts thoroughly until I found the problem.
 
Another theory may very well be the waterpump/timing cover issue already brought up.
Water is thinner than oil which would make it easier to push past the rings/ring gaps. If the rototaing assembly is throwing the oil/water around and it's getting past the rings and into the cylinders then it's likely it may just sit up there like water does when you pull a head off when disassembling an engine. Not sure if this makes any sense, but the voice in my head tells me so. lol
Hmmmm.
 
I am just going to haul it to MATS. Throw a bbq in the pits. And whoever figures out the problem will win the grand prize of a Weeks stay in Tiajuana........LOL
 
HemiTM said:
I am just going to haul it to MATS. Throw a bbq in the pits. And whoever figures out the problem will win the grand prize of a Weeks stay in Tiajuana........LOL
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I'll be sure to look for that on the MATS live stream.
 
Putting pressure to the cooling system has been brought up, but if it was me, i'd button it up and with no oil, leave the pan plug and spark plugs out, fill it with water and hit with 20/25 lbs. and wait a few hours to make sure nothing shows up. Last thing you want to do is rotate that assembly anymore then nessesary if things aren't right.
 
ohiocowboy1277 said:
just thinking here but you might want to pressure test the cooling system before you fire it up tomorrow after the heads are torqued down . do it with the spark plugs out so if its still leaking into the engine you know before it hydrolocks and causes expensive damage .
If you dont have a cooling system pressure tester last i checked they can be had at harbor freight for $35-$40 . much cheaper than destroyed engine parts imo .
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OldmanRick said:
Putting pressure to the cooling system has been brought up, but if it was me, i'd button it up and with no oil, leave the pan plug and spark plugs out, fill it with water and hit with 20/25 lbs. and wait a few hours to make sure nothing shows up. Last thing you want to do is rotate that assembly anymore then nessesary if things aren't right.
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I can't see a good reason NOT to do this, at this stage of the game.
 
Good suggestion....You can rent a pressure tester,A-zone,O Reillys. Free.Pay the deposit,return it.Get refunded. I do it ,daily.
 
Cometic head gaskets? Are they multilayer steel gaskets. I have seen mls type gaskets leak on install a couple times. We coat them with Permatex high tack for extra insurance.
 
Tech857 said:
Cometic head gaskets? Are they multilayer steel gaskets. I have seen mls type gaskets leak on install a couple times. We coat them with Permatex high tack for extra insurance.
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Yes they are MLS and depending on what thickness you want will determine how many layers.
 
I am still wondering if there was clean water on top the oil drained out. Only because I think the water entered 8 cylinders at the same time, and there is no way for this to happen if the engine "runs fine". Unless it is coming from below. Intake would be watered down fuel in the burn, heads would be lack of compression and water in the burn. An oil gallery full of water would increase until it caused a no run situation???
I am just like everybody else and wondering WTF???
 
The answer is in your sig. :)

I kinda feel bad. So many people entertained by this.
 
I'm not sure entertained is the right word, I really think everybody is truly waiting for the outcome. I know I am. This is the beauty of the forum. Almost every possible aspect is brought up by someone.
 
Agreed. People are trying to help. We learn by our own mistakes and those of others.
 
Since there is a prize involved, I' ll go with cracked block, since that option hasn't been taken yet.
 
magnumdart said:
Since there is a prize involved, I' ll go with cracked block, since that option hasn't been taken yet.
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I actually considered that....split down both sides of the valley and torquing the heads opened it up.

Tell ya' what, if that's it, i'll give you the prize as soon as i get back from California beating his machinists brains out....:D:D:D.
 
I too considered cracked block, but it isn't in Canada or any other area that freezes! California kinda rules out the cold..........but who knows where the block came from.
 
gdrill said:
I too considered cracked block, but it isn't in Canada or any other area that freezes! California kinda rules out the cold..........but who knows where the block came from.
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I thought maybe there were a couple of cold spots in CA, but yea, anything could have happened. Maybe someone swapped blocks on him.
 
Is the water ports/thermostat housing isolated or connected to the intake runners/plenum on the M1 intake manifold?
When pressure testing the cooling system, leave the carb off to see if any water is getting in that way.
 
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