Alternator ID & Help

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MR4V

MR4V

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Looking at replacing my alternator on my 73 Dart with a new chrome one but before I order a new one I'm confused with what I have ( no good with electrics ).
Here are a few photos
DSCF5234.jpg

DSCF5235.jpg

DSCF5237.jpg


The one I would like & I think is the correct one is at Summit part number 7509DDP, Chrysler square Back, One wire Capable with internal regulator.
IS THIS THE CORRECT ONE & WHAT IS ON MY DART?
Thanks
 
You have a "square back" alternator with an external regulator. p/n 7509RCDP would be the correct replacement.
 
Actually you could use the "one wire" you just would not be using your old regulator, BUT I don't believe these are an OEM unit and would wonder about replacement parts availability. Also, I just don't care for "one wire" units personally. Voltage drop problems in the stock harness could make these worse in some cases, because the "voltage sense" is AT THE ALTERNATOR and not closer to the battery
 
67Dart273 said:
Actually you could use the "one wire" you just would not be using your old regulator, Also,


I just don't care for "one wire" units personally. Voltage drop problems in the stock harness could make these worse in some cases, because the "voltage sense" is AT THE ALTERNATOR and not closer to the battery
Click to expand...


I hate to butt in here but: contrary to what you mentioned the "voltage sense" with a one wire alternator is "quite a bit closer" to the battery than the factory units. Think about this, battery to fusable link to bulk head to ammeter back out bulk head to alternator power stud for the one wire.

Battery, fusable link, bulkhead, ammeter, ign. switch, bulkhead, splice outside in the engine compartment then to the regulator then to the alternator for the factory setup.
 
I realize there's a huge controversy about "one wire's" When I said "closer to the battery" I meant "closer" in voltage ON A PROPERLY WORKING SYSTEM.

This means that if you have harness (bulkhead connector) problems, or a drop in a connector or switch, the factory sense lead may NOT be 'closer'. The reason that the factory sense with a separate lead CAN be 'closer' is that there's not much current on that line, and therefore no (little) voltage drop

On the other hand, the main charging lead can have a LOT of current across it and depending on size and integrity of connections, can have some drop.

Again, just me. I'll stick to "more than one wire's"
 
skykeith said:
You have a "square back" alternator with an external regulator. p/n 7509RCDP would be the correct replacement.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information, I'm confused as I could not see a regulator were should one be in a 73 Dart?
 
MR4V said:
Thanks for the information, I'm confused as I could not see a regulator were should one be in a 73 Dart?
Click to expand...
Summit P/N DCC-4529794 is what the OEM reg. looks like and it is probably mounted on the inner fender or firewall.
 
Gryzynx said:
Just in case you are thinking about going with the one wire unit, take the time to read this article.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

It's written with a GM bias, but they do state that the article can be applied to all makes.
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It's funny, they talk about a wopping 100 amp. alternator and it not working OK in the one wire design. I've been working in the heavy truck industry since 1978! What's funny is that we run 160 amp alternators all the time with ONE wire on plow trucks all the time. Running: plow lights, 6 strobe lights, heater and A/C running full blast, heated mirrors, four way flashers and various radios and wipers. These trucks run 24 hours a day sometimes. One wire alternators DO work!

I don't care if you have a one wire or a three wire alternator putting out 100 amps. If the rest of the wiring in the vehicle is not up to handling that type of current output than it WILL have a problem!
 
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