First off, yes I did an internet search and didn't come up with anything definitive. I have several Chrysler alternators that I would like to rebuild. Where are yall that do this getting your parts now?
Alternator Rebuild Kits
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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Let me check. I have a few to do myself. Do you have the special pulley puller?
Oh yeah. I got "all that" and if I end up needing something else, I'll get that too. lol
.....and thank you!
HemiSSDart
Dartus Interuptus
I have a local guy who rebuilds mine, Dusty's DC Electrical. He has been in business from decades and always warranties his work, so I quit doing them a long time ago...
Grounded field round back or isolated field square back?
I have not bought anything from them but they do have kits.
DuBois Performance Alternators, Parts, and Kits Made in the USA
604, CHRYSLER ALTERNATOR REPAIR KIT, Fits the old style (round back) Chrysler alt. with soldered in stator and pressed in diodes, from 35-65 amps., single and double pulleys, used on Chrysler cars, light trucks, marine, industrial and other applicati
I did a Google search and came up with several kits.
Round back and square back
chrysler alternator rebuild kits - Google Search
I have not bought anything from them but they do have kits.
DuBois Performance Alternators, Parts, and Kits Made in the USA
604, CHRYSLER ALTERNATOR REPAIR KIT, Fits the old style (round back) Chrysler alt. with soldered in stator and pressed in diodes, from 35-65 amps., single and double pulleys, used on Chrysler cars, light trucks, marine, industrial and other applicati
I did a Google search and came up with several kits.
Round back and square back
chrysler alternator rebuild kits - Google Search
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ASP Wholesale
www.aspwholesale.com
Brush and brush holder photos with p/n posted here
Depends what is needed. NOS or NORS if I can. Sometimes can find older shop with rectifiers and diodes selling on ebay. Stators and especially rotors I'd prefer the right one and the new stuff from WAI / Transpo seems to be only the high current draw '60 amp' rotors.
There may be other sources for new that don't retail to the public. Karl has posted there is a place around Chicago that will rewind.
I think at some point I posted photos showing a couple variations of the insulators and output studs for the squarebacks.
Here: Can you ID this alternator?
CHRYSLER ALTERNATOR PARTS (early)
Premium quality alternators, alternator parts & alternator repair kits forearly chrysler alternators at wholesale.
www.aspwholesale.com
Brush and brush holder photos with p/n posted here
Depends what is needed. NOS or NORS if I can. Sometimes can find older shop with rectifiers and diodes selling on ebay. Stators and especially rotors I'd prefer the right one and the new stuff from WAI / Transpo seems to be only the high current draw '60 amp' rotors.
There may be other sources for new that don't retail to the public. Karl has posted there is a place around Chicago that will rewind.
I think at some point I posted photos showing a couple variations of the insulators and output studs for the squarebacks.
Here: Can you ID this alternator?
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Please correct me if I am wrong. I rebuild my own alternators and starters. What I find available for alternators are- front and rear bearings, brushes and their insulators and diodes. Output post insulators and condenser are not available. If other parts are needed you will need to rob another alternator. Starters are even worse.
CAPACITORS
www.aspwholesale.com
I can't vouch to quality. I may have bought but do not recall changing them. Generally I leave parts in unless they fail. Otherwise its a clean up and reinstall. Just repairing for me, myself, and I. I'm sure volume operations don't do it this way. Even the one local guy I dealt with just replaced parts (and that didn't work well!).
Post #7. I stand corrected already. Company in #7 has everything to rebuild alternators and starters.
Basically I do the tests outlined in the FSMs. Adjusting for the availability of multimeters and other special I don't have.
Of the top of my head I test for:
Shorts to ground in either outout or in the field circuit. For a grounded field alt that can mean removing the ground brush.
Open field circuit (no continuity) or breaks in a winding. Sometimes thats a visual observation.
Field circuit draw test (shown here)
Bad diodes. (on the bench) Sometimes there's a visual clue.
Check for loose studs, bearing issues, etc.
Arbor press or a hydraulic.
I don't have a pressure gage so must measure distances and mark.
Real easy to press in too deep.
Also many times a rebuild is missing the grease catcher on the inside. So that lets them press the bearing in deeper than it would with that plastic cup/washer installed. I forget the proper name.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
These guys carry a lot of parts and some very high output stuff. Good tech info scattered throughout too.
I put a high-performance CS144 in my '70 RB with one of their adapter brackets. The thing puts out 115 amps at a slow idle. and can pump out over 200 amps at a fast idle if needed.
I put a high-performance CS144 in my '70 RB with one of their adapter brackets. The thing puts out 115 amps at a slow idle. and can pump out over 200 amps at a fast idle if needed.
USA Built High Output Alternator, Upgrades, Parts, Kits
High Output Alternators built right in the USA. We also have parts, upgrades, kits, marine and industrial units, guides, instructions, and more.
alternatorparts.com
Dave999
Well-Known Member
did my aussie prestolite one by taking it apart.
(its a small non bird cage 2 wire alternator with 1 end of field coil grounded to case and mounting unique to my aussie motor....)
going to the bearing place and getting imperial sized bearings ordered
cleaned up the copper.
used some varnish on the edges of the case coils where it looked dubious.... presume someone had been in there before and had placed case half with coils installed, face down on a rough surface or had been "at it" with a big screwdriver rather then gently drawing the cases apart.... leave the coils in the section they are soldered into.....
used aliexpress ebay and amazon photos to identify a set of brushes with leads and springs that could be ground to fit, made my purchase. well at a few $ a go i made a few purchases and chose when they all arrived. expect 70-100K miles out of a set of decent brushes, so if worn down to stubs do the bearings as well.....
luckily.....i had no diode issues
the press fit metal diodes for mine were pretty standard and used widely. ebay had lots of similar, but i didn't need any having a decent set up in the one i rebuilt. these have anode lead cathode case or anode case and cathode lead... check em out with multimeter massive resistance 1 way little to none the other way.... 2 plates separated with thin fibreboard with material sheathed wires soldered and the diodes pressed in..... if i had had to work on it photos would have been taken....
then intsalled it and wired it all back up "Taxi/Police Pack" style with a relay switching positive 12 volts direct from battery into 12 volt in, on the regulator, to remove ammeter and bulkhead resistance from the battery charge sensing side of things. the original 12 volt feed switches the relay, the relays negative "activation coil" lead just bolted under the mounting tab to body ground.
ignition on, 12 volt across activation coil means relay on, and new battery charge sensing 12 volt, direct into regulator. had a 30 amp hella relay off a VW/Porsche in parts stash, probably overkill
works well enough... as all i had to do was replace "ware" parts
Dave
(its a small non bird cage 2 wire alternator with 1 end of field coil grounded to case and mounting unique to my aussie motor....)
going to the bearing place and getting imperial sized bearings ordered
cleaned up the copper.
used some varnish on the edges of the case coils where it looked dubious.... presume someone had been in there before and had placed case half with coils installed, face down on a rough surface or had been "at it" with a big screwdriver rather then gently drawing the cases apart.... leave the coils in the section they are soldered into.....
used aliexpress ebay and amazon photos to identify a set of brushes with leads and springs that could be ground to fit, made my purchase. well at a few $ a go i made a few purchases and chose when they all arrived. expect 70-100K miles out of a set of decent brushes, so if worn down to stubs do the bearings as well.....
luckily.....i had no diode issues
the press fit metal diodes for mine were pretty standard and used widely. ebay had lots of similar, but i didn't need any having a decent set up in the one i rebuilt. these have anode lead cathode case or anode case and cathode lead... check em out with multimeter massive resistance 1 way little to none the other way.... 2 plates separated with thin fibreboard with material sheathed wires soldered and the diodes pressed in..... if i had had to work on it photos would have been taken....
then intsalled it and wired it all back up "Taxi/Police Pack" style with a relay switching positive 12 volts direct from battery into 12 volt in, on the regulator, to remove ammeter and bulkhead resistance from the battery charge sensing side of things. the original 12 volt feed switches the relay, the relays negative "activation coil" lead just bolted under the mounting tab to body ground.
ignition on, 12 volt across activation coil means relay on, and new battery charge sensing 12 volt, direct into regulator. had a 30 amp hella relay off a VW/Porsche in parts stash, probably overkill
works well enough... as all i had to do was replace "ware" parts
Dave
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