Alternator swap, connect field wire to itself?

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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The 66 slant dart is getting ready for an Alternator change. Currently (get it) has the original 35a in it, round back. I bought this 55a Ultima Ultima R111598A - Alternator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
and according to the Youtube videos, you are supposed to take a wire from one of the FLD terminals and bridge it over to the front of the casing? Is this true?.
 
TrailBeast said:
No.

Here Mopar Charging System - MyMopar.com
Click to expand...
oops, let me update. The picture in the above link, which is the one I ordered, is actually not the one I got. The one I got is a single field, round back .It actually looks just like my old one, except clean and golden pulley. See the back of it as I installed it. 2 ground screws (unconnected), 1 Batt and 1 FLD. So easy bolt on and go.Other than dealing with this long bushing , which doesnt fit my bracket so I was able to pop out the little one on my old one. Got it in, running. Volts look more consistent, now not going over 14.8 . Before it was hitting 15.3??
Thanks everyone. Am I supposed to get an upgraded VR now? One that is transistorized? As in a few weeks I will be installing the HEI conversion. hit me back.

back alt - 1.jpg
 
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Good deal!

Sound like you are fine but if you decide to upgrade use the solid state unit (VR) that appears the same as original and you will be good. I upgraded from a Mopar blue regulator and very happy with charging and factory looks!
 
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gdizzle said:
The 66 slant dart is getting ready for an Alternator change. Currently (get it) has the original 35a in it, round back. I bought this 55a Ultima Ultima R111598A - Alternator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
and according to the Youtube videos, you are supposed to take a wire from one of the FLD terminals and bridge it over to the front of the casing? Is this true?.
Click to expand...
Yes , you take one field terminal and ground it to the case using any of the screws that hold it together. Why not just go for a denso alt. It is also a dual field alternator just like a square back. Do the same as above and your charging issues will be over. The mounting is the issue for the denso 90 amp. also upgrade your wiring to 8 or 6 guage to take the load and attach it to your battery terminal on the starter switch on the firewall.
 
Anyone have a part number for solid state vr? It just plug n play right? No rewiring or stuff
 
gdizzle said:
Anyone have a part number for solid state vr? It just plug n play right? No rewiring or stuff
Click to expand...

The plug will be different on the newer style VR, but the wires are the same color, and you can pirate a plug end from any junkyard car with electronic ignition and splice it right in!

Looks like you bought the same alternator, single field roundback!!
 
cosgig said:
The plug will be different on the newer style VR, but the wires are the same color, and you can pirate a plug end from any junkyard car with electronic ignition and splice it right in!

Looks like you bought the same alternator, single field roundback!!
Click to expand...
Is it this one? More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS VR125T

Do you happen to know what kind of cars in the junkyard might have this connection? thanks bro
 
So am i confused. Am i supposed to connect a ground wire from the back terminal to body ground? I am using the vr128 with this, no issue. But just switched to HEI which meant disconnecting the old coil which had a small ground wire going to the alt bracket? Lights are now pulsing heavily. Was. Supposed to reconnect the little ground wire to something to ground the alternator? Hellp. Or am i supposed to run a ground from grounf terminal on alt all the way to the new vr128 regulator?
 
I pulled out my Mopar blue and went with a solid state unit that looks like the original.

Either the Mopar Blue, VR128 or the new/old looking solid state as picture here are all plug and play with your set-up and Round Back Alternator.

s-l1600.jpg
 
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