Aluminum cylinder heads

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WARLOCKII

WARLOCKII

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We want to go with a set of aluminum heads on our 72 Swinger w/383 and auto trans. Right now with the iron heads and Schumacher headers, the plugs are a pain to change and the plug wires are very close to the headers. We're looking at Edelbrock E-Street 75cc angle plug heads. Is anyone else using this combination? What are the pros/cons?
Thanks
 
There really aren't any 'cons' to switching from factory irons to aluminum heads. Factory big-block heads need quality (=expensive) work to get them even close to the out-of-the-box performance of the aftermarket stuff. Much better flow, less weight, modern chamber....no-brainer if you have the cash. If there's any drawback at all I guess it could be that you really need to verify the guide clearances, valves seats/job, and spring setup is right before running them, although plenty of folks just bolt them on and go but that's too big a gamble to take IMO. If you're not set up to do it yourself, most shops don't charge much just to measure and verify. Angled plugs are usually a big help with headers.
 
WARLOCKII said:
We want to go with a set of aluminum heads on our 72 Swinger w/383 and auto trans. Right now with the iron heads and Schumacher headers, the plugs are a pain to change and the plug wires are very close to the headers. We're looking at Edelbrock E-Street 75cc angle plug heads. Is anyone else using this combination? What are the pros/cons?
Thanks
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the trick flow 240's are way better, i have them on mine out performed the eddie's by 30hp
 
I ran the Edelbrock RPM heads on a "B" engine and Schumucher headers.
Plugs were angled just like the E-Street and had plenty of clearance/
working room.
 
It’s not a race car, just looking for a little more performance and plug clearance.
 
What stall ?and
what rear gears?
More stall is the fastest way to getting off the line and more gear will have your engine spooling to shift-rpm Quicker. These two together will vastly increase your street performance, more so than engine power.
Heads and cams work more towards the top of the rpm band.
Stall gets you off the line quicker.
Gears and compression work everywhere, but the fastest way to lose power at the bottom is to sacrifice compression, with too big a cam.
On the way to 60MPH, with an automatic, and typical street gears; you will only ever go thru the powerpeak once, and in all likelihood your tires will be spinning. So absolute power means almost nothing. Even with 3.55s you will only hit 60 at about 4300.
Without changing the rear gears, there are only three ways to get to 60 quicker;
A) less tirespin, or
B) more power at 4300, or
C) more average power beginning at Zero mph.
as to A, a traction aide works wonders.
as to B, this usually means a bigger engine
as to C, this immediately points to a higher stall and/or more gear; either in the trans or in the back.
 
Give Toth performance a call. He hand builds the heads. You can take it out of the box and bolt them on.
 
Are there some of these aftermarket heads where you have to notch the block for valve clearance? That might be a factor in deciding which one as well.
 
WARLOCKII said:
We want to go with a set of aluminum heads on our 72 Swinger w/383 and auto trans. Right now with the iron heads and Schumacher headers, the plugs are a pain to change and the plug wires are very close to the headers. We're looking at Edelbrock E-Street 75cc angle plug heads. Is anyone else using this combination? What are the pros/cons?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Double check what your compression ratio will be with the 75cc chambers. If it is okay then you should be fine. Those will be nice heads for your application. I wouldn't use the E street head if I was trying to build a performance engine but sounds like you just have a basic street car so they should work great.
 
WARLOCKII said:
It’s not a race car, just looking for a little more performance and plug clearance.
Click to expand...
No. You don't need the Trick Flows at all. Waste of money on a mild engine. And never mind all the questions about gearing and converter stall speeds, 0-60 or a long synopsis on how to hook a car or any of that. It's irrelevant to your situation.The Edelbrock E Streets are the head you need and will work just fine for your application.As Andy stated above just double check your compression with the 75cc chambers. If you want decent pricing and someone who can set your E Streets up for your particular application call and talk to Todd at Marsh performance.
 
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SuperStock426 said:
The
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beanhead said:
There really aren't any 'cons' to switching from factory irons to aluminum heads. Factory big-block heads need quality (=expensive) work to get them even close to the out-of-the-box performance of the aftermarket stuff. Much better flow, less weight, modern chamber....no-brainer if you have the cash. If there's any drawback at all I guess it could be that you really need to verify the guide clearances, valves seats/job, and spring setup is right before running them, although plenty of folks just bolt them on and go but that's too big a gamble to take IMO. If you're not set up to do it yourself, most shops don't charge much just to measure and verify. Angled plugs are usually a big help with headers.
Click to expand...
Precisely. The most aggressive port work you could do on iron heads still doesn't come close to what you get out of the box with aluminum heads such as the Edelbrocks that are being discussed. I've never owned the E Streets but bought some Edelbrock rpm's a few years ago and according to whoever's flow bench numbers that tested them they range from the mid 290's to 300. Another plus for aluminum heads is that you can get by with more compression and less octane than iron heads.
 
Pushrods are alllllways a measure to get the correct fitment.
 
WARLOCKII said:
Which roller rocker arms are the best for the money? What about pushrods?
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I've used these roller rockers that Mancini sells.They are manufactured by Harland Sharp for Mancini.They are not the needle bearing type but are the bushed type of rocker. Used these on a few engines and they work good. You can order them with or without the billet holdowns. I prefer the billet holdowns. As far as push rods I use Smith Brothers. They have always worked great for me and they make a good pushrod.

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Lots of ppl use the Crane Golds. They made the MP rockers that have been in my 470 stroker since 1998. It sees 7000 pretty regular. 8000 with nitros. Kim
 
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