Dan the man
Well-Known Member
That makes sense to me
Aluminum cylinder heads
- Thread starter Dan the man
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Yup... go with known power adders that I believe everyone here can agree with. Disregard what you read about hipo stuffs.. you are not going to be toooling around town or on the highway at WOT. You want to buy components that will improve those driving conditions. Better exhaust/headers, intake & carb, ignition, as noted earlier.. rockers. IIRC the stock stamped vary from 1.45~1.47 ish. A true set of 1.5 rockers is actually a decent improvement over stock. None of the above breaks the bank on it's own and you can do on your own reasonably once you get the parts collected. Any one of the upgrades is not dependent on another.
The aluminum heads, roller rockers and intake I just put on my 360LA were wayyy more than the bottom end and mild cam merit. But I plan to stroke & upgrade the cam long term so it made sense and the new combo is actually very streetable once dialed in. If I were not going to stroke it later a decent redo on the cast heads would have sufficed.
GL!
Jean Genibrel
Member
YES! Edelbrock heads are cast and machined here in California! I know for sure because I visited their manufacturing plant before I signed up as a dealer with them. Edelbrock is now a part of Com/
ave bee wanting to buy "cheap" head for your 318. From what I have seen and witnessed aluminum heads do not make more power on stock engines. If I were you, I would do a clean-up of the ports and have a good valve job done by a race shop. You will be surprised. While you are working the heads see about a little more compression and perhaps a small cam that matches your torque converter (B&M)
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
You have and I appreciate it.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Redoing the stock heads is the route I'm going to take. A friend of mine who knows how to port heads is going to do that as well as clean up the bowl area. Machine shop suggested a 4 angle valve job and back cut the valve's. I'm thinking about using 1.88" intake valve's and 1.600" exhaust valve's.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I haven't looked lately, who makes a good 1.5 ratio rocker arm that's not a roller tip, something like the 273 rocker arms?
Yup.. there is a set in the FS thread right now.. $250
Small Block Adjustable Rockers with Push Rods -1967 273
No one. Just Ma-MoPar did.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Crane and Isky did but no more
Mancini still has the ductile iron rockers for LA engines. You'd still need shafts and hardware.
Mancini Racing - A Engine Adjustable Rocker Arm Set
Mancini Racing - A Engine Adjustable Rocker Arm Set
@S’cuder Thanks for the correction. Thanks! Thanks do believe I forgot about Mancini. Sorry about that Dan.
I do remember Crane and Isky used to. Perhaps ISKY still might make them?
I do remember Crane and Isky used to. Perhaps ISKY still might make them?
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Thanks
That's okay. Thanks everyone. I'm going to try and post a list of modifications that I plan to do, I haven't bought anything yet.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
@rumblefish360, I have a question about roller tip rocker arms ( I'm not using them ). I've read that they are known for the roller tips coming apart, what causes this? Manici does have the ductile iron rockers, which shafts do I need for these? I probably wouldn't be doing a cam swap till the winter. I figured that since I'm going to convert to a 4 barrel that would be a good time to swap out the rocker arms too.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Have not heard this about roller rockers myself. Even the less expensive rollers seem to do fine on moderate lift cams without issue.
You will need to measure for ball and cup style pushrods.
@Dan the man
It will also be the best and obvious power gain since you’ll notice all the power at once. Not a slow build up over time. Which some have said, it’s such a slow creep up in power it was actually a bit disappointing.
When you do it all at once and hop in the car and take it for a drive, the car will feel like a new vehicle. It’ll feel great! It might just want to make you put it to bed in a Star Wars Sith robe.
Get all of your ducks (parts) in a row, lined up and ready to go. Missouri gets cold in the winter so have the garage heater ready to go! Keep all of your parts indoors. Sounds crazy right? I’ll tell ya what’s crazy! Handling crazy cold parts in the winter!
Under racing conditions where extreme pressures are combined with all the motion and slamming the tips at extreme rpm, this is a unusual thing to happen. On a street engine, a street strip engine and even on a pretty strong race engine, I would not worry. If my engine was built to attempt to be top of the food chain power, they would be inspected every now and again. On a stock engine, they would only be looked at during a valve gasket change or a cam change. In other words, I’d never look.
That’s what you should have called Mancini for but I’d bet a days pay that the stock shaft is fine. It really does t make any sense to alter the shaft diameter. Unless it’s a top predator build and there is a good reason to. I haven’t ever noticed a major change in shaft diameter. It’s normally shaft thickness.
IMO, doing all the parts at once is the best thing to do. It not only saves on down time but you get to drive the car more until the swap day arrives.
It will also be the best and obvious power gain since you’ll notice all the power at once. Not a slow build up over time. Which some have said, it’s such a slow creep up in power it was actually a bit disappointing.
When you do it all at once and hop in the car and take it for a drive, the car will feel like a new vehicle. It’ll feel great! It might just want to make you put it to bed in a Star Wars Sith robe.
Get all of your ducks (parts) in a row, lined up and ready to go. Missouri gets cold in the winter so have the garage heater ready to go! Keep all of your parts indoors. Sounds crazy right? I’ll tell ya what’s crazy! Handling crazy cold parts in the winter!
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