Aluminum heads whos the best?

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It won't fix your issue if you go with Ede's...

Depends on what you want to do.
 
I know it wont fix the problem, but aluminum can take a lot more than cast iron heads. So might as well get a set, bump up my compression and fix my angle problem all at once. Also I just can see me f*ckin up a set of xheads.
 
Seen Edelbrock heads and MP aluminum heads (non w series, can't find anylate casting w5s) anybody use/try these MP heads?
 
Yu want heads to correct the pushrod angle of the small block?

Well, The Idny/Brock heads and W-series heads are the best you can do. OH! Wait, Brodix has a set, the "MC" is it.


To truly fix the isue, you'll need a 48* block and head set.
 
MoPars own aluminum head is a better performer and a bit more pricey.
 
1970Duster said:
Whats the difference between the P9 and the W8, I've seen both but cant figure out the difference between them.
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Just did some looking. Also found one called a W9. Don't think they are the heads you are looking for. Says they require R-4 blocks and specialty valve gear.


So you got Eddy's, Brodix, Indy.

Mopar was making a head called a Commando. Don't know they they still offer it though.
 
Burntorange70 said:
Just did some looking. Also found one called a W9. Don't think they are the heads you are looking for. Says they require R-4 blocks and specialty valve gear.


So you got Eddy's, Brodix, Indy.

Mopar was making a head called a Commando. Don't know they they still offer it though.
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Yeah I just finished reading about the P9 and W7,8,9 heads and I don't want to step on that landmine. So I guess I'll start looking at the Brodix, Indy, and Eddy's. That or someone is selling a set of Late casting W5 heads (Thinking this might be a wish in one and **** in the other).
 
What are you doing with this motor? race only. how much do you want to spend on valve gear? Can buy Edelbrock cheap if your interested.We run W-8 on a R3 block
 
Burntorange70 said:
How much power you looking to make? What parts you got so far?
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Power: is unknown at this point (I really should know but haven't put much thought into it).
Parts:
Stock stoke, Stock rod length, bored .030 over. Hyd Roller Lifter, Roller Cam, Roller rockers. Was going to use stock x-heads (with stainless steel Ferrea Valves), with a 9.7 to 1 Compression ratio. With the aluminum heads, going bump compression (at least try to) to ~11.1 (93 octane all the time doesn't bother me). with Dougs headers and Air gap manifold.
 
If you go Ede's bust out the grinder, you're gonna need it! :)
 
1970Duster said:
Power: is unknown at this point (I really should know but haven't put much thought into it).
Parts:
Stock stoke, Stock rod length, bored .030 over. Hyd Roller Lifter, Roller Cam, Roller rockers. Was going to use stock x-heads (with stainless steel Ferrea Valves), with a 9.7 to 1 Compression ratio. With the aluminum heads, going bump compression (at least try to) to ~11.1 (93 octane all the time doesn't bother me). with Dougs headers and Air gap manifold.
Click to expand...

Ported eddy heads are still the best bang for the buck in Aluminum. I really like the Indy 210cnc port head, but it aint cheap. I can sell you that head complete, intake manifold with port matching, 1.7 TD's ready to run for 4200.00 with hyd. roller springs. That head will flow 310 cfm, and has no pushrod pinch. Chamber is big at 68cc.
If you run Indy's rockers it saves you 350.00 but only 1.6 ratio or less.
Brian
 
1970Duster said:
Power: is unknown at this point (I really should know but haven't put much thought into it).
Parts:
Stock stoke, Stock rod length, bored .030 over. Hyd Roller Lifter, Roller Cam, Roller rockers. Was going to use stock x-heads (with stainless steel Ferrea Valves), with a 9.7 to 1 Compression ratio. With the aluminum heads, going bump compression (at least try to) to ~11.1 (93 octane all the time doesn't bother me). with Dougs headers and Air gap manifold.
Click to expand...

Should run good..my stock stroke .030 over 360 with Edelbrocks hyd.cam 10.7 to 1 comp. air gap tti's has gone 11.70's..
 
rumblefish360 said:
Considering your recent post on power, (A plan goes along way) Use Edelbrock heads; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60779/

Indy heads. I think they stopped with the Edelbrock mods; http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/images/mopp_0608_mopar_cylinder_heads/brodix_cylinder_heads.html#

Heres the price page, scroll down some for the 360-1 heads; http://indyheads.com/images/price14.pdf
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I know the motor is going to make more power and rev faster (everything in the bottom end is forged, eagle h-beam rod and eagle crank with their ESP armor on both) with the pistons being forged aluminum with total seal gapless piston rings (i think the rings are 1/16, 1/16, 3/16) and go with a crank scraper (up and down stroke), Milodon road race oil pan, stud girdle, and of course a complete roller setup (1.5 ratio arms).
With the compression ratio (currently of ~9.7 to 1) the engine buider said 375 hp, but with a 11 to 1 i dont know what id be
 
approx. 3% per 1 point of comp ratio. of course this varies and grows with more intense engines.
 
I'd suggest stock RPMs. Have them checked and corrected, you will need to slot the pushrod holes as shown in your old thread. This is just part of building engines with aftermarket parts. Don't get too discouraged.
 
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