aluminum radiator

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Mick Semantel

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Thinking about going with a Jegs or Summit aluminum radiator in my 75 dart. The radiator will be bigger (from 22" to 26") I have a couple of questions.
1. Do I have to have a after market tranny cooler?
2. Will I need a fan shroud?
3. Will there be any hassels mounting the radiator.
4. Will my mopar fan cluth be good enough to cool the radiator?
Any suggestions would be great.
 
I have a Jeg's unit in my car and it's great. You'll have to have a seperate trans cooler which is better anyway. You'll also need to rig up your own mounts which is fairly simple. I made mine from 2" wide aluminum flat bar that I got from a local farm store. Just cut and bent 90* pieces to hole the radiator. I am running an electric fan and I don't think there will be enough clearance for the stock clutch fan maybe a direct drive fan will fit. Flex-a-lite makes different width spacers you can use. If you are running a crank fan you should get a shroud. There are universal ones out ther but they are more of a finger guard. Your best bet is to modify one to fit. IIRC Jegs makes a shroud and electric fan package that fits their various radiator sizes.
 
thank you for the reply. Did it take long to get the radiator in with all the modifacations you had to do? I'm still debating whether to go with a factory style or an aluminum. I'm not about to pay $600.00 for a be-cool radiator.
 
The radiator was cake.....maybe a couple of hours total and that's with making the brackets and painting them. Here is about the only pic I have right now of the radiator and fan. I even made my own fan mounts. At the top of the radiator you can see that mount and there are two on the bottom just like it.

radfan.JPG
 
You did a really nice job on that. I would like to use the fan cluth, maybe there is a way I can make it fit. How heavy would you guess that the aluminum radiator weigh's?
 
Empty it can't weigh more than 10lbs.....there is a "ledge" on the core support that the radiator is sitting on. The aluminum brackets are just holding it against the core support.
 
If you are interested in a super nice alum rad, I would contact this guy. Email him with what your looking for (most likely he alrady has it in his ebay store). I have alrady purchased 4 of these over the last three years and I am VERY happy with them. They are ALL alluminum welded with NO epoxy. Alot of the radiators out there are held together with epoxy. With all the heating and cooling these babies go through the epoxy part scares me. He even sells the 90 degree brackets for mounting. I think he gets $10 or $15 for them. The difference in cooling between copper/brass and these aluminum radiators is amazing....good luck. BTW: I am in no way afiliated with this seller....Just a happy customer! :headbang: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/19-x...6QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33602QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
I almost bought one from that guy but the Jeg's one came up and I got it for $50. It was brand new. As I understand the Jeg's radiators are all welded also. It will be hard to find a better deal on an aluminum radiator than from the link posted above....unless you find another on Ebay and I'd only look at new/never used ones if buying off of there.
 
Suregrip391 said:
The difference in cooling between copper/brass and these aluminum radiators is amazing....

I don't mean to be the one to knock the wind out of your sails, but the cooling difference between aluminum and copper is negligible, as a little research would have shown. Here are two articles that discuss the differences and show copper/brass are far superior to aluminum.
Scroll down a little to find the aluminum vs. copper/brass radiator info on this page
copper.org
then there is this site
USradiator
Aluminum is pushed by to many who do not realize or know the differences between the materials. Having studied metalurgy I gained a little insight into the subject. Also, something that I don't recall being mentioned in either of these articles but something that DOES affect all of us running the old iron blocks is a process called galvanic corrosion, I won't go into the science here but suffice to say that aluminum to steel galvanic corrosion is much greater than copper/brass to steel in an ethylene/glycol cooling system. And yes, this does matter in the long run for the guys running aluminum heads and intakes also. What I will say is that if you are running aluminum parts in your cooling system, whether heads, intake, radiators or what not, replace coolant annualy and definatly use Water Wetter™ as it helps protect the aluminum parts from this type of corosion.
 
I would actually hesitate to say that either of those articles are really strong evidence that copper cools better than aluminium. Simply look at the source of the first article. It's in their best interest that the tests show that copper is better. The second article actually says that they are about equal and that the most important thing is core design. The graph they show compares a four 1/2 in core copper compared to a two 1 1/2 in aluminium.
 
I will agree with the aluminum to steel galvanic corrosion. BUT having had a stock 3 core copper/brass radiator restored for my 1970 cuda and having my 1.5" aluminum radiator installed three weeks later....Here are my results!

The Stock copper/brass performed as it should while traving down the road 180 to 190 degrees depending on the weather but once I stopped at a trafic signal for more then a minute it went as high as 235 most times (which scared the hell out of me!!!!) I replaced the entire cooling system after that (waterpump, t-stat, hoses etccc). Drove her down the road and had the same symptoms.

Thinking 235 degrees might be pushing disaster, I installed the aluminum rad as discussed above. Here are those results....cruising down the road it ran at about 160 deg. Nice and cool. At a stop light or at idle it would hit about 190 but that took about 10-15 minutes of sitting still. It would run hotter the longer I sat, but took some time. An auxillary cooling fan would have solved that problem for those long waits while idleing.

I can remember watching my temp gauge go from 195 degrees down to 160 within a matter of 20-30 seconds of driving from a long light. They really do the job and thats all I was getting it. They make for a cooler running engine...for sure. Talking from experience first hand, no manuals.

P.S. Upper flex hose was temporary in case someone was going to take a shot at it...LOL

18.JPG
 
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I gave 169.95 to Summit for this Griffin Radiator.I had 2(3x11)strips welded down the sides for 15 bucks.I had an electric fan,but it didn`t cool the 440 down enough for me(stayed about 200-210)took the electric fan off.I put this 18"flex fan on and it stays around 165-175.Hey it`s working for me 3 summers,now.It more than likely come down to $$$ and your personal taste.If I had a good copper radiator I`d try it first.
 
As mentioned above, avoid epoxy set cores like the plague. The are simply not repairable. The welded cores can be repaired to a certain extent, but not cheaply. Ask a radiator shop about repairing aluminum radiators (not like anybody drives on dirt roads or has ever dropped a tool into the fan). There are also some aluminum radiator myths out there, and some random things to ponder. First, copper is a better conductor of heat than aluminum, but it is a false comparison as most aftermatket radiators typically have far more surface area which more than offsets any difference in material conductivity. Next comes weight, sure your aluminum radiator may have a dry weight which is less than it's OEM counterpart. Another apples to oranges comparison, as most aftermarket radiators are larger and hold more water. At 2 lbs per quart the weight differences as installed probably are probably pretty minor. 4-row cores cool better than 3-rows right? Not always, a lot of times a 4-row will flow less air and actually run hotter in low speed driving. Crossflow radiators cool better right? Balderdash! Heat rises. Most new cars have crossflow radiators because they fit better under todays lower aerodynamic hoodlines. Most new cars also have electric cooling fans, which allow them to use a radiator which is much smaller than would have been installed when our cars were built. A quality electric puller fan is expensive, but well worth considering if cooling is a problem. Electric fans are probably the best setup, but highest initial cost. Cluch fans are next, pretty effective but still not cheap. Fixed blade fans generally aren't too efficient and flex fans are useless for anything other than making noise.

Face it the average A-Body radiator is between 30 and 40 years old, and probably showing its age. A new radiator is far superior to a worn out ineffective one regardless of material. Price out having a new core installed in your original radiator compared to a new aluminum unit. Not hard to see why aluminum replacements are so popular. Copper is way more expensive, (remember that pennies have been made of aluminum for over 20 years now.) Builders commonly have the wiring stolen out of their jobsites, yet few theives are currently absconding with storm windows. The same radiator that Summit sells would be outrageously expensive if made out of copper/brass. I'm not really trying to bash aluminum radiators, but sometimes we need to look past the pretty pictures and slick marketing in the catologs and analyze the big picture.
 
AdamR said:
Were did you get the fan/shroud from ?


From a guy that lives in a van down by the river :headbang:



no actually a moparts mod works at a pontiac dealership, its a fan off a HHR :salute:
 
I had a stock radiator (the narrow one) recored to a three core. Cost me about $130 or so, and my 360 stays nice and cool with a stock four blade fan with no shroud. Only starts getting warm when I sit still in traffic in the summer, which wouldn't be a problem either if I could find a damn shroud and installed my stock 5 blade or even my 7 blade fan and viscous clutch. But whatever, I was merely offering real world facts for those who were interested. In response to welding aluminum, you got that right. PITA!.
 
thanks for all the feed back. I guess it really comes down to price. I'm going from a 22" radiator to a 26". My car currently has the slant six in it.
 
Another thing no mentioned is you should have your cooling system flushed by a professional. Not the quiky lube down the street where they cut into your heater hose and install a tee then flush water through your system, ( Waste of money!)
But a REVERSE SYSTEM POWER FLUSH that will clean your complete system out. This will really make your car run cooler. About every 2 years would do.
 
first off a fan shroud will help immensly with cooling. second off, when going to a huge rad like a 26" keep i mind that our engines are offset so that will limit you to the size of fan you can get in there unless you use a pusher elec. unit. I had clearance issues with the monster one I got from jeg's, but i just offset the rad and made their shroud opening a little bigger. I had a budddy tig some brackets on and I was good to go. Over the summer I had no issues with overheating and it cost 150$ and a case o beer for the welder. Bottom line think about what you want to put in there...you can make it fit, but how mch cutting and welding is up to you
 
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