erafuse
Well-Known Member
Are aluminum radiators better for cooling than original radiators ? Does a clutch fan help for cooling?
Aluminum Radiator
- Thread starter erafuse
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IMHO.
NO AND NO
AL rad should be designed to transfer enough heat to keep the engine in it's normal operating range just like a copper/ brass is designed to do.
Clutch fan only helps with economy.
NO AND NO
AL rad should be designed to transfer enough heat to keep the engine in it's normal operating range just like a copper/ brass is designed to do.
Clutch fan only helps with economy.
erafuse
Well-Known Member
Thanks. So would a 22” radiator cool better than a 19” radiator?
Technically yes. Assuming it is otherwise the same the wider has more cooling surface area.
erafuse
Well-Known Member
It’s runs fine on the highway. It runs about 210-220 in traffic just thought it might run a little cooler by going to a 22” and maybe put a shroud on it.
Details.....
Engine, year, car, etc.
Engine, year, car, etc.
erafuse
Well-Known Member
1973, Dart Swinger,318,Auto,63,000 original miles. No air that’s why it’s a 19” radiator I think. I had it recored
Control your air flow thru the rad...hood to core support seal in place?
I'd do a shroud first if its not a problem.
One thing at a time.
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Search FABO on this topic, there is quite the thread on it. Lord knows I am not going to offer an opinion! But I do have a couple high HP cars both of which utilize aluminum radiators!
I put a 26" in a 74 Duster that originally had a 22" Rad.. The core support just hides about 2" of the rad., about 1" on either side. I just had to drill new holes to support it.
Copper transfers heat better than aluminum, no arguing that. However, most aftermarket aluminum radiators are larger and more efficient than the original design so you get benefits there.
If everything is in good condition the factory setup works fine. One of the biggest cause of running hot is not running a shroud. Sometimes you can get away with it but cooling will always be better with one.
If everything is in good condition the factory setup works fine. One of the biggest cause of running hot is not running a shroud. Sometimes you can get away with it but cooling will always be better with one.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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As to the clutch;
Running direct is better than clutched, obviously; because the directly driven engine fan does not slip on the water-pump axle.
There are advantages to running a clutch, but you gotta get your system sorted out and dependable first.
Make sure the fanbelt is not slipping.
FWIW
I run a stock ancient 1973 318, A/C rad in the stock core-support,of my 68 Barracuda, in front of my 367HO combo; and it has no problems keeping my engine cool.After I proved it with a direct-drive fan, I subbed in a viscous coupled 5-blade fan, which failed. Then a T-clutch off a 2000 or so Ford pick-up. But the 5-blader was not enough. So on went to the 7 blader with the T-clutch. At this time I had had enough, so I also installed a Milodon Hi-flo waterpump. Between these two my problems went away, so I started to run more heat into the cooling system; first a 180 stat, then a 195, then a Milodon hi-flow 195 which actually operates at ~205*F at the stat-house.
I suppose I could go back and try the 5-blade fan, but this 7-blade system runs rock solid at ~207, so I ain't messing with success.
Additionally the system has always had a shroud, an expansion tank, and when I was having problems she ran straight water. After I got it sorted, it now runs 50/50 plain old Prestone antifreeze..... so I don't have to drain the water out every fall,anymore.
Oh yeah, after I got it sorted, I played with pulley sizes and got the pump slowed down. This so I could rev to 7000 and not have to worry about the belt flying off. That belt was new in 2002 or so. The brand new spare is still in the trunk.
Ok now
I highly recommend a compression test. And to make an ignition timing map.
Say what?!
Com'on it's a 1973; they ran fine when new with your exact system.
BTW; nice car
Running direct is better than clutched, obviously; because the directly driven engine fan does not slip on the water-pump axle.
There are advantages to running a clutch, but you gotta get your system sorted out and dependable first.
Make sure the fanbelt is not slipping.
FWIW
I run a stock ancient 1973 318, A/C rad in the stock core-support,of my 68 Barracuda, in front of my 367HO combo; and it has no problems keeping my engine cool.After I proved it with a direct-drive fan, I subbed in a viscous coupled 5-blade fan, which failed. Then a T-clutch off a 2000 or so Ford pick-up. But the 5-blader was not enough. So on went to the 7 blader with the T-clutch. At this time I had had enough, so I also installed a Milodon Hi-flo waterpump. Between these two my problems went away, so I started to run more heat into the cooling system; first a 180 stat, then a 195, then a Milodon hi-flow 195 which actually operates at ~205*F at the stat-house.
I suppose I could go back and try the 5-blade fan, but this 7-blade system runs rock solid at ~207, so I ain't messing with success.
Additionally the system has always had a shroud, an expansion tank, and when I was having problems she ran straight water. After I got it sorted, it now runs 50/50 plain old Prestone antifreeze..... so I don't have to drain the water out every fall,anymore.
Oh yeah, after I got it sorted, I played with pulley sizes and got the pump slowed down. This so I could rev to 7000 and not have to worry about the belt flying off. That belt was new in 2002 or so. The brand new spare is still in the trunk.
Ok now
I highly recommend a compression test. And to make an ignition timing map.
Say what?!
Com'on it's a 1973; they ran fine when new with your exact system.
BTW; nice car
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