Am I Going To Be Happy With This Camshaft?

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Bodyperson

Bodyperson

Pedal to the metal
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Cam And Lifter Kit [CL390171] - $603.00 : ISKY Racing Cams, Do It Right

  • Hyd.67
  • Valve Lift Int/Ext. 0.465
  • Valve Lash Hot Int/Ext. 0.000
  • ADV Duration Int/Ext. 270
  • 0.050 Duration Int/Ext. 221
  • Lobe Center 108




I was going to use a (used) similar cam in a blueprinted 340 I am building but one lobe is a little shy of specification .005 to be exact. The corresponding lifter had not been spinning. It has a decent groove in it's face. The 340 is at 4.100 bore now. I Liked the old cam but things have changed on the engine.
Promaxx shocker 170 cfm heads and PRW stainless roller rockers. 1:6 as per B3RE suggested along with his correction kit. I read PBR's write up about these heads and I see that not much flow increases between .450 and .500 lift.
Is it a safe assumption that lift beyond these numbers is a waste if not undesirable? I realize there is more to it than just lift. I'm running 3.91 gears. Auto (904 or 727) with stock converter hopefully. Funds are running low. 67 Barracuda at basically stock weight. I have Doug headers and late model 340 manifolds. My intake options are basically stock manifolds. My best available option is the aluminum Mopar stock replacement square bore with a 600 cfm double pumper. I'm willing to step things up but its just going to be a grocery getter that blows a few doors off on the way.
I am not trying so set the world on fire. I just want to have some spirited driving.
 
Oh crap. I forgot to add the compression ratio. 10:1 verified as well as I can figure and asked for. Pistons are virtually flush with the deck. .002 in the hole is what I get.
 
With iron heads, you'd probably be too much for pump gas, but wil aluminum heads that should be a lot of fun.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah, I know. Das what I had said. lol Should be really snappy.
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DSS racing pistons and scat rods shaved a bit of weight off of the the stock crank and rotating assembly. I'm getting excited for some "snappy"
 
Bodyperson said:
DSS racing pistons and scat rods shaved a bit of weight off of the the stock crank and rotating assembly. I'm getting excited for some "snappy"
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Yeah, I reckon so! lol
 
You should like it. It is similar to the Comp XE268 I have in my 340, and I love it.
I don't think a stock converter is going to work well for you. I converted to a 4 speed many years ago. While my car was still an automatic, I can tell you that the 727 with a stock converter would kind of stutter a bit from a dead stop if you didn't power brake it a little. Other than from a dead stop, it was fine. I put a higher stall speed converter in (2500 or so) and it fixed the problem. When I came to a stop, the engine idled fine, and when the light turned green, I just took my foot off the brake and off I went. I had 3.55 gears, and it was real easy to chirp the tires from a stop and going into second.
 
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harrisonm said:
You should like it. It is similar to the Comp XE268 I have in my 340, and I love it.
I don't think a stock converter is going to work well for you. I converted to a 4 speed many years ago. While my car was still an automatic, I can tell you that the 727 with a stock converter would kind of stutter a bit from a dead stop if you didn't power brake it a little. Other than from a dead stop, it was fine.
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What gear do yo have? I'm pretty sure I'm going with the 999 I have. I didn't specify that and was hoping that would help too with the lower gear set.
 
@Bodyperson
The gears were, and still are, 3.55. With your setup, I am guessing you will be at about 375 HP, maybe more. Do you think 600 CFM is enough carb. It will be great for driving around town and doing burnouts, but I think you are giving up at least 20-25 HP by not going with a 750. I replaced a 600 with a 750 on my 340, and it was a difference you could definitely feel. It was running a bit rich while cruising (gassy smell), so I jetted the primaries down a bit. The gassy smell went away, and I still had the whoomp when I put my foot in it. Just thinking out loud. Even a bone stock 340 had more than 600 CFM.
 
harrisonm said:
@Bodyperson
The gears were, and still are, 3.55. With your setup, I am guessing you will be at about 375 HP, maybe more. Do you think 600 CFM is enough carb. It will be great for driving around town and doing burnouts, but I think you are giving up at least 20-25 HP by not going with a 750. I replaced a 600 with a 750 on my 340, and it was a difference you could definitely feel. It was running a bit rich while cruising (gassy smell), so I jetted the primaries down a bit. The gassy smell went away, and I still had the whoomp when I put my foot in it. Just thinking out loud. Even a bone stock 340 had more than 600 CFM.
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I agree. It's a carb I have and thought, like RRR said, would be snappy. I can always experiment with that later. Same with the cam I suppose.
 
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thats close to my setup
9.9 to 1 actual comp 268- 218@50 454 lift 110 lsa weiand stealth 650 dp 727 stock verter 2 1/2 exhaust with manifolds unilte dist if recall its right around 16 degrees at idle but its power timed on 94 octane. had 3.23s dead stop punch smoke the tires all the way through 1st@ 6k 15 feet on the 1 to 2 shift. has 3.91s now dead stop punch now smoke the tires 6k in 1st and 2nd if i so choose no stumbling with either gears the tune is everything.
I think you will be fine on 94 octane power timed
its the smallest cam ive used i was surprised@ the low end power it made
i already had the 650 dp on hand
750 dp is the right carb prolly drop the pri jet as stated play with the power valve and squirter size it matters on 727 cars
370hp be my guess for you
 
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I would run a SFT with EDM lifters. I've had great longevity and power with the Lunati Vodoo cams. You will also loose around .020-.025 lift at the valve with the SBM pushrod geometry from a cams listed lift.
 
Bodyperson said:
Cam And Lifter Kit [CL390171] - $603.00 : ISKY Racing Cams, Do It Right

  • Hyd.67
  • Valve Lift Int/Ext. 0.465
  • Valve Lash Hot Int/Ext. 0.000
  • ADV Duration Int/Ext. 270
  • 0.050 Duration Int/Ext. 221
  • Lobe Center 108
Click to expand...
That will work very well out putting around town with some spirt.

Bodyperson said:
Promaxx shocker 170 cfm heads and PRW stainless roller rockers. 1:6 as per B3RE suggested along with his correction kit. I read PBR's write up about these heads and I see that not much flow increases between .450 and .500 lift.
Is it a safe assumption that lift beyond these numbers is a waste if not undesirable?
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Yes and no. While there isn’t much additional flow to be had, the head is still moving air so it’s all good. When I say no, it is possibly because the air flow through the head tanks, falls off a cliff. IIRC, this is not the case with those heads. Another reason I say no is a few times, I have seen springs not up to task with the new lift height.

The reason it is desired is that the valve see’s the max flow point twice. This is not a big power getting move and on the street you’ll never know. On the track, a number of guys swear by it. Personally I see no point in the street.

Bodyperson said:
I realize there is more to it than just lift. I'm running 3.91 gears. Auto (904 or 727) with stock converter hopefully.
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The big thing here is:
1: What is the stall of the converter(s)?
2: Tire size?

while it’s good you have 3.91 gears which enables you to get away with a low stall, it just that IF the stall is too low, you’ll ether take off slow or worse.

I personally like the 904 idea. Your call.
Bodyperson said:
Funds are running low.
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I heard that!!!

Bodyperson said:
67 Barracuda at basically stock weight. I have Doug headers and late model 340 manifolds. My intake options are basically stock manifolds. My best available option is the aluminum Mopar stock replacement square bore with a 600 cfm double pumper.
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I’d run the headers over the manifolds for power reasons.
Ditto on the intake manifold. At least it is a weight savings.
At 600 cfm, you’ll be fine. A member suggested a 20-25 hp gain with a 750, I do not believe this at all even though that is what I would suggest to run.

However, if you already have these parts and funds are low, just run it and don’t worry about it.


Bodyperson said:
I'm willing to step things up but its just going to be a grocery getter that blows a few doors off on the way.
I am not trying so set the world on fire. I just want to have some spirited driving.
Click to expand...

I think you have it. I don’t know what you are expecting, but I hope it meets your expectations.
 
mderoy340 said:
I would run a SFT with EDM lifters. I've had great longevity and power with the Lunati Vodoo cams. You will also loose around .020-.025 lift at the valve with the SBM pushrod geometry from a cams listed lift.
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I have no problem with solid lifters. I ran the cars for years with the solid tappet 273.
 
mderoy340 said:
I would run a SFT with EDM lifters. I've had great longevity and power with the Lunati Vodoo cams. You will also loose around .020-.025 lift at the valve with the SBM pushrod geometry from a cams listed lift.
Click to expand...
It should be a little less of a lift loss with B3re relocation kit and the 1.6 rockers. I'll look into it. Thanks
 
Another thing about the solid lifter and cam that is it should solve my banana grove conundrum.
 
looks like a well matched street engine. At .221 duration run manifolds instead of headers.
 
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