Am I ok with this? KB107 in La block

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To sum this up, you can NOT ASSUME ANYTHING.

Might be the block. Might be rod(s)
Might be piston(s)
Might be CRANK

The normal thing, "generally" for deck checking is to check a piston, or all of them, and a rod, or all of them, and pick a pair, and put that one setup in all 4 corners of the block and measure deck height from there
 
Have you checked the rod's? Maybe you have a bent one.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^sounds like diff. rod length to me !!! pistons/ not likely that far off, crank/ not likely that far off , wavy block surface not likely -------unless a total dumbass did the work ...jmo
 
Ok, so I have put pistons in all corners.
I have remeasured ,
Cyl 1 is about .014 down , cyl 7 about .014 down
Cyl 2 is .008 up and cyl 8 is perfectly even with the deck.
 
Odd side is possible level, even side possible .008 taper cut, I say install others and see what they are, if that is the worst one you should be safe with .008 out of the hole depending on how much taken off the heads. You just need to cc the cylinder heads and measure your comp ratio, if needed you can get other gaskets. let us know what they are.
Look over the heads most machine shops stamp how much the cut off, at least the shops I have used,
 
To sum this up, you can NOT ASSUME ANYTHING.

Might be the block. Might be rod(s)
Might be piston(s)
Might be CRANK

The normal thing, "generally" for deck checking is to check a piston, or all of them, and a rod, or all of them, and pick a pair, and put that one setup in all 4 corners of the block and measure deck height from there
You left out the biggest one.

Might be operator error.

Without the correct tool to measure, there's no telling "where" he is.
 
One is +.023, another is -.021?

I’d put both of those in the same hole for a true comparison......to help narrow down exactly where the error is.

That’s kind of a mess.
 
One is +.023, another is -.021?

I’d put both of those in the same hole for a true comparison......to help narrow down exactly where the error is.

That’s kind of a mess.

See post #32, it's not actually that bad but I agree on double-checking.

@Chadderbox70 I'd be inclined to have that odd bank cut down another .010-.015". These older Chrysler engines are notorious for having poorly machined decks from the factory. iirc the factory tolerance for compression ratio was around a full point (9.3-10.1 or something like that for HP engines), terrible.
 
Ok, so I have put pistons in all corners.
I have remeasured ,
Cyl 1 is about .014 down , cyl 7 about .014 down
Cyl 2 is .008 up and cyl 8 is perfectly even with the deck.

The same piston/rod in all 4 corners.......or 4 different pistons/rods in the 4 corners?

You could run two different thickness gaskets to get the two sides overall deck clearance closer to each other.
Cometic offers .027 and .040
 
First Yes as Dwayne suggested, use the same piston & rod in each corner
Second if you want to see if the rods a equal length & straight bolt two rods without pistons on one rod journal then line up the pin bores & see if a wrist pin will pass through the pin bores... (Assuming these aren't pressed pins... If they are pressed pins you'll need a undersized pin....
We use to use that method to check 6 & 8-71 rods... works well...
 
See post #32, it's not actually that bad but I agree on double-checking.

@Chadderbox70 I'd be inclined to have that odd bank cut down another .010-.015". These older Chrysler engines are notorious for having poorly machined decks from the factory. iirc the factory tolerance for compression ratio was around a full point (9.3-10.1 or something like that for HP engines), terrible.
a lot of the orig first run blocks were dam close , my 1966 440 block required .002 to square it and bring the deck into proper heigth ...
the 68 hemi block I used to own was perfect to factory specs ...
 
a lot of the orig first run blocks were dam close , my 1966 440 block required .002 to square it and bring the deck into proper heigth ...
the 68 hemi block I used to own was perfect to factory specs ...

Good to know, the spec I saw was for the late 60s. Do you know what car your 440 was out of? They might have spec's tighter tolerances for Imperials, Chryslers and 426 Hemis but didn't care as much for the high-volume engines for Dodge and Plymouth cars.
 
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It's will be fine, just bring it to Uncle Tonys and he will toss it back together. Then send it to Nicks to Dyno it.
 
Lots of band aids offered here. That engine would get nothing short of having everything checked and measured by a competent machine shop. Crank index, rod lengths, block deck, all of it. It already is an expensive proposition "throwing" it together like it is. Might as well make sure it's right.
 
Good to know, the spec I saw was for the late 60s. Do you know what car your 440 was out of? They might have spec's tighter tolerances for Imperials, Chryslers and 426 Hemis but didn't care as much for the high-volume engines for Dodge and Plymouth cars.
I doubt they earmarked a particular block for a particular car. The logistics or that would be a nightmare at an assembly line. It seems to me, the next block in line would get the numbers stamped into it for the next vehicle. It would hard enough to keep track of HP engines vs standard engines let alone trying to match perfect specs to certain vehicles and not others.
 
I doubt they earmarked a particular block for a particular car. The logistics or that would be a nightmare at an assembly line. It seems to me, the next block in line would get the numbers stamped into it for the next vehicle. It would hard enough to keep track of HP engines vs standard engines let alone trying to match perfect specs to certain vehicles and not others.

Makes sense, I was thinking more though that the blocks that happened to be closer to ideal spec after machining were selected for higher-end makes. I don't know much about the manufacturing and assembly side of things back at that time though so would that also have been asking too much? I'm pretty sure I read that Imperials at least were built to a much higher quality standard than the other makes and I assume that pertained to engines as well.
 
Lots of band aids offered here. That engine would get nothing short of having everything checked and measured by a competent machine shop. Crank index, rod lengths, block deck, all of it. It already is an expensive proposition "throwing" it together like it is. Might as well make sure it's right.

To be fair, maybe at the time the machine shop felt that square-decking wasn't worth the expense based on the intended usage. OR they don't have as much experience with Mopars which are a lot worse with variations in deck heights than Chevy and Ford stuff. When I took my 440 block to be machined I mentioned square-decking and the shop owner said he could do it but it would cost a lot more and not really be worth it; at the time I intended to build it up for my D200 pickup with only ~9:1 compression to tow my Duster around and be safe on regular gas.
 
To be fair, maybe at the time the machine shop felt that square-decking wasn't worth the expense based on the intended usage. OR they don't have as much experience with Mopars which are a lot worse with variations in deck heights than Chevy and Ford stuff. When I took my 440 block to be machined I mentioned square-decking and the shop owner said he could do it but it would cost a lot more and not really be worth it; at the time I intended to build it up for my D200 pickup with only ~9:1 compression to tow my Duster around and be safe on regular gas.
I mean ZERO offense to the OP, but his method of measurement leaves much to be desired. I'd almost bet that's where the issue is. At least I hope so.
 
Good to know, the spec I saw was for the late 60s. Do you know what car your 440 was out of? They might have spec's tighter tolerances for Imperials, Chryslers and 426 Hemis but didn't care as much for the high-volume engines for Dodge and Plymouth cars.
was out of a big chrysler , dont know which one ...
 
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