amp guage issues need help

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adstr123

adstr123

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i need some help i have a 73 duster and the black wire under the dash is partly burnt.
i was driving the car with my headlights on and smelled something burning.the dash lites dimmed and the amp guage went to neg.i noticed a low amp reading ......how can i repair this or upgrade to a better,and stronger elect amp guage wiring NEED HELP ANY IDEAS ?
i was advised to remove the wires from the amp guage and install a volt guage...need help please :???::???:
 
It should be done to all our cars. Not hard to perform. Also contact crackedback for his headlight relay kit to relieve the draw from the headlight switch.
 
All of the above is well and good "depending" on the cause. That is, do you have a short, or the typical bulkhead connector / ammeter failure, or just what. So how do you find out?

Start (as above) by carefully reading the Mad article, and pay attention to their diagram which is a very good simplified overview of the primary power in these cars

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

If you do not have a FACTORY shop manual, go to MyMopar and download the two sections of the 73 manual. THAT MANUAL as well as several others, came from guys on this very website

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Next, pull apart your firewall / bulkhead connector and inspect it, referring to the Mad article, examine for damage and "meltage."

Once you've done that, THEN you can march forwards, looking for other loose / damaged / corroded connectors and connections

In somewhat order of "top of the list," is

bulkhead connector, ignition switch connector, ignition switch, headlight connector, headlight switch, ammeter connectors, terminals, and the ammeter itself. Rare is the "welded splice" shown in the Mad article. This is an actual factory welded splice in the black ammeter wire a few inches from the ammeter. Keep it in the back of your mind, but they do (rarely) fail.

Down the list from there are other connectors and switches, such as the column turn signal connector, the headlight connectors (right at the lamps) and so on.
 
I would personally (and did) swap to the Toyota internally regulated alternator..

Mancini Racing sells a kit that comes with a wiring diagram, I bought just the bracket, and sourced an alt on ebay.. you could also relay the head lights after doing so.. to make them brighter

The only pic I have of it currently, it's wired and will work great!



Rewiring the engine harness, I have a few threads on here about the headlight relay, and alternator swap..

 
"Internally regulated" has absolutely nothing to do with "most of" the usual problems with these. While there IS usually voltage drop problems to the original regulator THAT IS NOT the root cause

I'm not saying what you did is not a good route, but it's not the cause
 
I've seen harness connectors melted to the headlight switch so much that the connector had to be whittled off the bad switch with a pocket knife, then repaired or replaced. Similar faults in dimmer switches and those wires, water in the fuse box, short circuits in engine harness connectors, electric choke assist fried, on and on. Any one of many faults can and will take out the bulkhead connections or amp gauge connections just like a bad electrical outlet in a home will trip a breaker. Would cutting out/bypassing the breaker be a proper fix ? Just like replacing the bad outlet is a better plan, Finding the root cause of your circuit overload is a better plan.
 
67Dart273 said:
"Internally regulated" has absolutely nothing to do with "most of" the usual problems with these. While there IS usually voltage drop problems to the original regulator THAT IS NOT the root cause

I'm not saying what you did is not a good route, but it's not the cause
Click to expand...
I realize that, I would just eliminate the amp gauge altogether.. either route you go.. I went the 120amp Toyota alt route due to electric fans, relayed headlights, weight savings, and I had to rewire my car's engine harness for a slant - big block swap - as well as rewire the electronic ignition

Eventually my car will have an electric fuel pump as well so the upgrade is needed..
 
For sure bypass the ammeter inside the engine bay. You don't require the ammeter or a voltmeter. My modern Chryslers have neither, though on trips I stick a cig lighter voltmeter in so I am not flying blind and get stranded (been there). I posted a way to keep your ammeter active, even w/ >100 A alternator, but beyond the abilities of most here.

But, unless the thick black wire itself shorted, your problem is somewhere else in the wiring (probably dash, but could be engine bay) and will bite you again if you don't find & fix.
 
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