Another “which camshaft” post

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Here are the numbers I got off my heads these are 360 587 heads. The .487 lift is the max before and clearance added i would add at least .020 for clearance so that makes your max lift .467 my heads had a shorter install height than the factory claims so other heads will vary you just gotta check yours.

Spring height 1.62
Guide to retainer with seal .487
Gtr without seal .614
 
Keep stock cam and add more valve spring to get another 500-600 rpm out of it.

I read it's an old stock '77 360 motor, so I wouldn't do much other than headers and tuning. Just build it from the pan up, it's almost too cheap not to.
9.1 pistons are 155 bucks all day long on ebag.
Rings 25, bearings 80, 300-400 matching on block...then you can pick a lot nicer cam and have what you want.
It rpm's fine just doesn't make any power up there and it's together and running, not in need of a rebuild just looking to add a bit more punch to it. but thanks for the suggestion
 
It rpm's fine just doesn't make any power up there and it's together and running, not in need of a rebuild just looking to add a bit more punch to it. but thanks for the suggestion
Heads are probably the issue, the exhaust seats in an old 360 burn/wear away and the valves sink and flow horrible.
Cam it and let us know.. but before you do...pull the valve covers and rockers off...and put a ruler across the stems to see if they are even or some higher 'the exhausts' .
 
It rpm's fine just doesn't make any power up there and it's together and running, not in need of a rebuild just looking to add a bit more punch to it. but thanks for the suggestion
I forgot to add this story.
As a mechanic you can fix a lot of cars and just assume their outcome down the road based on text rule of thumb repeated/parroted cause / effect ...but I have 2 cars for an example of the old "new heads on old motor pushes oil through the worn out rings once the heads are tight at the seat,guide n seal... but I have 2 cars...one a '94 volvo w/red block with 322k and a '96 dodge 1500 4x4 w 299k

Volvo "burnt" a little oil, maybe a quart every 6 months and the Dodge ate a quart every month.. I changed the heads on both. I put a VX cam 11.5/10.5mm lobe vs old 9.5mm lobe, valve job,guides seals, weld up porosity n milled. The truck, ported sm magnums, positive seals,doubles, milled.
Both engines carbon was scraped off pistons. Truck pulls harder and almost 1000 rpm higher rpm. Neither lose oil now. Not a drop, no smoke, just more power.
The heads, the guides and condition of the seals is a ton of why and engine will burn oil. It sucks it in. It's very important the heads are in good shape, even if the rings turn out to be crap and it does smoke a little under load..it will guaranteed make more power with good heads.
 
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The best advice I gan give is call Racer Brown. He is easy to talk to and can find the right cam for any odd ball combination. Even mine, 372ci., 4-speed 3.09 first gear, 3.00 rear, 26in. tires
 
I hear tell the stock 318 cam is pretty good..in a 318 :)

No kidding the stock 360 2bbl cam really wakes up a 318. I was doing a budget /6 to 318 swap on a D100 4spd o/d truck and wanted a little pep. Put a mid '80s 318 in there with a $30 new TRW cam on clearance at Barnett Racing, I think it was 252* .410" 109LSA. Even the old Direct Connection "bible" says that's a good upgrade over the 248* .390" 113LSA (?) stock 318 stick. With a '69 Dart 2bbl Carter and headers, it was a high/mid 9 second truck in the 1/8mi, otherwise bone stock with 3.55 SG gears and a LuK clutch!
 
No kidding the stock 360 2bbl cam really wakes up a 318. I was doing a budget /6 to 318 swap on a D100 4spd o/d truck and wanted a little pep. Put a mid '80s 318 in there with a $30 new TRW cam on clearance at Barnett Racing, I think it was 252* .410" 109LSA. Even the old Direct Connection "bible" says that's a good upgrade over the 248* .390" 113LSA (?) stock 318 stick. With a '69 Dart 2bbl Carter and headers, it was a high/mid 9 second truck in the 1/8mi, otherwise bone stock with 3.55 SG gears and a LuK clutch!
I have had good results with this in a mild street application. I even ran it in a 318 with stock everything except this cam, a 600 Hooley and headers.
CHRYSLER Summit Racing SUM-K6901 Summit Racing® Classic Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing I do remember thinking "Should I keep this" when I tossed the stock 318 cam and lifters.

But yeah I am not against running stock parts in engines, as long as they check out as serviceable. That Summit cam kit, part of the reason I like it is because of the price :) and it was cheaper 15 years ago. I have one in my 340 with stock style accurate exhaust it sounds good not too loud and a nice low rumble.
 
I have had good results with this in a mild street application. I even ran it in a 318 with stock everything except this cam, a 600 Hooley and headers.
CHRYSLER Summit Racing SUM-K6901 Summit Racing® Classic Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing I do remember thinking "Should I keep this" when I tossed the stock 318 cam and lifters.

But yeah I am not against running stock parts in engines, as long as they check out as serviceable. That Summit cam kit, part of the reason I like it is because of the price :) and it was cheaper 15 years ago. I have one in my 340 with stock style accurate exhaust it sounds good not too loud and a nice low rumble.
That think sounds angry in a teen!
 
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