another 383 build up Q

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captdramamine

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I have read some of the threads in here on the subject of 383 performance. some good advice. to start i aquired a 73 duster for $500 and found a 383 with 906 heads for $100. the block is in dire need of blasting and possibly need boring and sleaving. not sure yet if the block and heads are even usable. but assuming they are......i would like to squeeze 600hp out of this 38yr old chunk of iron!

I have a year One catalog and have been looking at the parts in it and a few other places just to get an idea of what is available. And yes i am willing to put the 10k+ into the engine.

planning on a 727 tranny unless someone convinces me otherwise. also chassis supports etc....

i have to build the engine basically form scratch so i am not limited by stock parts. what would be a realistic hp gain NA (naturally aspirated and FI (forced induction) and what would be the best route to acheive them (including parts list)? and don't forget electical, cooling etc...

FYI: was originally a slant 6 but have a K for big blocks. car is basically a shell. planning to drive on the street.
 
Well, I would start with makeing sure that the block and internals are good, then if they are bore it .030 and use 11.5:1 pistons, get them as light as possiable with light weight pins. Make all of the rotating parts as light as possiable as the 383 is going to have the hardest time makeing 600 HP due to bore and stroke size. A larger bore will make power much more easily. Then use a cam with a 256-264 duration with a 103-113 centerlines. I would use the new Max Wedge heads from Mopar as they are a compact or closed chamber type.
Use a set of hedders that have a 2" primary 44" long. Use the stock size valves that the heads come with as the ports are very efficent and don't need any larger valves. Then I would top it off with a Indy Intake manifold as they have one that will bolt up. Part # 400-2. Then I would use a 2" spacer for a 4150 to 4500 carb and run a 1050 #9375 carb.. Use 1.6 roller rockers and titanium retainers. Now if the machine work is done correctly this combination should get you in the 610-620 range NA and utilizing factory parts. ( rods, crank, block, and heads)
If forced induction then 4340 crank and rods will be the order, along with a aftermarket block. Then 700-800 HP can be achieved.


BJR Racing
 
With that kind of coin to spend, I'd trash the 383 and get a 400 block, stroker assembly and get 500 cubic inches for around the same price. A lot easier to get 600 hp with 500 inches. Not to mention high compression pistons for a 383 are always custom made (expensive). With 500 inches you could possibly get that 600 hp and still use pump gas. That's what I'd do if I had 10k for a motor.

don
 
Love your name...lol. (I get motion sickness...)

I'd have 2 very different buildups. Using your "street car" plans, first no boost. The best way to make power on the street without compromising drivability or fuel type is big inches. You have the 383, but it needs attention. I would find a 400 to use as a core. The biggest bore (least valve shrouding as BJR said). There's awebsite 440source.com that has many ideas on strokers. Now, if you're dead set on running a sleeved 383 block hard, then you can get 496" out of it with the kit 440 source offers. I havent built one, so I dont know personally, but I've heard you must run an external oil pickup (read as Milodon pan/swinging single external pickup and Milodon oil pump) even with the Chevy rod pin size that set up uses. Now, keeping things simpler..A 400, with a 4.15" crank, will also give you 496", but no strange oil system stuff. A typical Hemi pan, 1/2" pickup, and HV pump will cover the oil system. A N/A 496 needs heads. So I'd use in pecking order Indy SREZs or the MP stage heads BJR says. A word of caution tho, I have heard of major problems with the Stage heads..Both iron and aluminum versions. Not all the time, but enough. In any case, I would buy bare castings, and assemble them in house, correcting as they go. A solid cam or solid roller is how I'd cam it. A complete, dyno'd and set up engine like this would run roughly $12K, with headers, ignition and carb. Pump gas, 600ish hp, 575ish tq. on pump (92) fuel.

For boost, I'd go a Callies 3.75 crank, Eagle H beams, dished pistons, and the SREZs. Keep the static ratio down to 8:1, the chambers may need some enlarging to do this, as I would want to keep the quench area of the piston intact, and keep the quench tight.(helps stave off detonation) I'drun 2 smaller turbos with an air/air intercooler. I'd also use billet main caps, and a girdle. the larger Hemi oi pickup and HV pump. With the turbos, extra block work, and piping, plus a controller (Megasquirt?) you're looking at least $15K for a dyno'd monster. I'd estimate hp from 700 to as high as the turbos can make. Similar "street" versions can make well over 1000 after careful tuning. Really, the boosted model needs a ton of "in car" dyno (chassis) work to get all dialed in, and that's a lot of money.Same with high pressure fuel pump, braded lines to and from, coating the IC plumbing..It's a lot of extra $$ and work.

Just curious, where you going to run a car like that anyway? My meaning is, are you being honest with yourself as to what you plan to do? Because a N/A street car (10.5" treaded tires, 3.91 gear max, leaf springs, stuff like that) can run way into the 10s with 550 hp. And it will be a scary fast ride around town, and you'll have to be climbing around a roll cage to get in and out. Just my $.02.
 
Just curious, where you going to run a car like that anyway? My meaning is, are you being honest with yourself as to what you plan to do? Because a N/A street car (10.5" treaded tires, 3.91 gear max, leaf springs, stuff like that) can run way into the 10s with 550 hp. And it will be a scary fast ride around town, and you'll have to be climbing around a roll cage to get in and out. Just my $.02.

i would like to drive it to the track, car shows and the occasional red light run to spank a few overpriced mid-life crisis vvti dohc etc... i just want to make a bad *** ride

sounds like the 383 isn't a very popular engine. what engine would give me the best bang for the buck? same goal of about 600hp. i've seen new 426 hemi blocks for $2000.
 
You are correct, but be realistic! If you want 600 HP then use my program and save the money. Mopers suggestion are feasiable but cost more.
If your looking for a cruise night thumper then this would be the best way and the cheapest.
I guess what I'm saying is you either have the $$$$$$ or you don't. You pick the way that you'r going, it's your money.



BJR Racing
 
If you are going to consider a Hemi, the Hemi crate engines run around $12,000. And it's a HEMI! :blob6: Instills fear in all who hear its name! :notworth: Just add carburetion & GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



:burnout:
 
well, most imports you will find at stop lights can be easily beaten by an almost stock 340 in any RWD. The really fast ones cant get traction (unless it's the WRXs or AWD Mitsus) until 3rd, and have to shift a lot. A good sticking RWD with an automatic will take them for a 1/4 mile walk, even if they get close near the end...600 hp will get you into the 10s solidly with a car compromised to run 1/4 miles more than highways. Like BJR says, it's your money. Recently I was talking to a friend, and it seems to us like there are 2 types of car guys..Ones that do a build or resto wil the idea of having a beautiful car as an end result. The second has a goal to reach, and builds to meet the goal. Once the goal's reached, they sell it and buy something else to accomplish something else. so is your goal to have 600 real horsepower? Or is your goal to have a killer car? The end defines the means to get there. A customer I am doing a budget 451 for had to ask himself the same question, and he'll get the results he wants. A B body running mid 12s on pump gas, 3.55s and radials, with an engine budget of $4500, and that's for new everything, carp to pan, headers, distributor, and water pump. He wants to pull out the 383, and drop in this one. It's easy to do when you know what you need it to do. Hemi blocks are now available, yes. The new foundry is shipping again, and they are supposed to be good ones, able to go to the advertised 4.5" bore unlike the early ones. I havent done any hemi work other than tuning, so I cant tell you if they are everything they are billed as. Time will tell. But, with a $2K price (I'll bet you cant get your hands on one for under $2800), you'll need another $13K to get a complete engine running in a car, nevermind the other support stuff you'll need. But, there's nothing like a hemi at a cruise night. I think every town has a "Hemi So-and-So(insert your first name here...lol)" at a cruise night. Also, 600 hp you'll need to upgrade the whole car..subframe connectors, fuel system, cooling system, tranny, drvieshaft and rear plus suspension changes to hook with it. I can build a 10.0 second car for $15K, or build a 9 second engine for $12K, and you'll need another $8K for the support stuff. Of course, this is all opinion based on my experiences..and those arent everyones.
 
I assume you are looking to go 10's ? I only ask as we have a mild cheap 400 build in my sons Dart that is a nice driver you can drive anywhere all day and is a nice solid mid 11 car. I would guess its about 500 hp at the flywheel and around 425 at the wheels to push over 3500 lbs with driver to mid 11's. Its just a stock stroke 400 which is really just a larger bore 383. It has nothing fancy and uses bone stock Eddy heads with no work on them. So as BJR Racing says with the combo he is talking you should be able to put a 383 A-body in the 10's and drive it on the street. And we have done no real trick tuning on his car or removed any weight as I feel his combo could run easy low 11's with some trick work and tuning. Good luck , Ron
 
First let my say I love 383s and for a nice driver they are great, for 600 HP I would use a 400 block and 440 crank, heads for 600 hp I was going to try indy heads for my next build as my 906 heads ran out ~ 450 HP on the last 451 I built. But BJR may have built buildups using the new max heads with luck so I would not counter his advice, I would just start with a 400 block and 440 crank I used long rods and forged pistons, like BJR said a very light rotating assy.

The forged pistons with the pins near the oil rings was not the best for a daily driver as there was a lot of piston slap. I got 30K miles out of it before I had lower compession on 2 holes and it was after I sold it so I never knew if it was in the heads or rings. I understand there are more stable forged pistons than I found 10 years ago.
 
I'll be honest with you. I doubt that you'd be able to build a 383 to 600 hp and still keep it streetable on pump gas. I've built my 383 with ported heads,10 to 1 comp., high rise manifold, big 4 barrel, headers, and high lift cam in other words the works and on a chassis dyno the engine is calculated at 496 HP. I think if I was going to 600 shaft HP I'd be looking at a stroked 400 or go ballistic with a 440. Sorry, but that's my opinion.
 
i am greatful for all of your advise! being this is my first mopar i am not shy about asking. i want this car to look great (which it already does) and be a real muscle car at the same time.

my dad found a dart (unsure of the year) for $450 and i am told its in better shape then mine. it is also in need of an engine/tranny. i am going to look at it this week and decide if i want it.

where could i find a 400 block? how much would i expect to pay?
 
Demon Seed, i appreciate your honesty. I came here for honost answers. if i can't get 600 ponies out of the 383 i need to know.

i have decided i am going to use the 383 and see about blueprinting it. i emailed a company in cali (can't remember their name) who was advertising streetable blueprinting. i will post their reply and get all of your opinions.
 
update for anyone who cares.

i have my engine at a machine shop getting torn down.

good news...this engine is super solid. the machinist tells me its a very stout casting like one you'd find in a work truck. i know it came from a car so it was most likely a 6 pack. the stock crank is steel so we are going to use it.

the machinist ordered custom forged pistons. they are going to take a while.
he is going to stroke it to i believe he said 420ci. about .70 over.
edlebrock aluminum heads and most likely aluminum intake manifold, port and polish, etc...

looking to dyno around 450 to 500 for the street and he suggests a 100+ nitrous kit for the track. Look out Ford and Chevy...here i come.
 
Sounds like a decent plan. You may want to have him do a little looking tho. There are new stronger stroker cranks for that application that cost under $600. Some use a different rod type too, but they are out there. May be similar $$ when having yours welded, or indexed and offset ground. Depending on his parts choices, you should end up with much closer to the 500 level. Oh, also, no B engine was ever offered as a six pac, and they all share the same basic casting design. Keep us posted.
 
Ahhhh the giggle gas. Turns tame machines into a beast at a buttons notice.
 
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