another boosted slant : D opinons plz

-
72ddart90

72ddart90

Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Location
longview WA
Just wana start by saying hello to all the fabo members this is my first thread posting on this awesome forum.

So i picked up a 225 all torn down and ready to start piecing back together. just wanted some 2nd 3rd 4th opinions on my boosted slant plan. correct me on anything plz ur all the pros.

i dont think ill ever take it past 5 grand im shooting for a daily driver with "some" spunk to boot : D looking to put about 800 bucks into it. paid 200 for the motor which is in great shape.

-shave the head .090 bump compression up to 9.5 to 1. (right??)
-port and polish the head the best i can. (first time attempt)
-1.7 and 1.44 valves (depending on the cost)
-closely sized intercooler.
-tdo4hl turbo (think its big enough?) heres a map of it>>> http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/maps/td04hl-16t.gif
they are used on the 2.5t volvo s70s. i see em on craigslist once in a while. im basing my pick on the compressor map and not the volvo engine.
- i think sidedraft webers would be wicked cool to use. ive read they can handle boost out of the box. im still debating on running a single dual or dual duals. maybe a choked 40 and a 45 or 48 for wot hah thatd be sweet. enlighten me on sidedraft stuff. im a newb still.
-obviously a custom manifold if i run sidedrafts.
-im shooting for maybe 5 - 12 psi. think thatll still be to high with my compression ratio??? detenotion is bad ju ju....
-camshaft is up in the air for me. recomendations??
-read something about using a certain headgasket as well for a boosted app.
-recommend a good gasket brand? Im a believer in you get what you pay for. ill pay a lil extra.

thanks
-Brett
 
Hello and welcome aboard.

(Pssst, there is an edit button on the lower right after you post up, it'll give you some time to correct the post without posting doubles ;) )
 
nah i posted double cuz i didnt realize the thread had to be approved first hah thanks though:banghead:
 
Not knowing what racing your experience is, or what you want to accomplish in terms of performance, or fuel economy, if you're familiar with quarter mile drag terminology, you could let us know if, for example, you'd be happy with a 15 second car, a 13 second car, or want something faster.

What the weight of your car is, will be a factor in how much power you need, and the usage; whether it will be a daily driver, cruise missle, or a race-only deal.

Of course, the bottom line will be the amount of money available to accomplish your goal(s).

There's LOTS of information and help available here on FABO, and it's free... except, for your time...

Several guys on this site have built turbo slant 6's, and most started out with a stock, or near-stock engine. Here's a video of one such car (2-bbl carb [I think] on a stock head and short block, but 21 pounds of boost.... not recommended for stock internals.) He ran 12.95 @ 104mph on that run.

Here it is... [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPe_vHwZsF4"]Slant Six Turbo 1970 Dodge Dart 1/4 Mile pass - YouTube[/ame]

Let us know what you want to accomplish and I'm sure you'll find good advice here, on parts and procedures that will assist you in putting together a fun ride, without breaking the bank!

Happy New Year, and welcome to FABO!
 
it wont spin past 5000 rpm itll be a daily driver not a racer. im shooting to put about 800 bucks into it. my goal is probably around 250-300 horse. my main concern is whether my 9.5 compression goal with 5-12 pounds of boost will be safe with out detonation problems. ill be running an intercooler so thatll help alot but idk if itll be enough
 
72ddart90 said:
it wont spin past 5000 rpm itll be a daily driver not a racer. im shooting to put about 800 bucks into it. my goal is probably around 250-300 horse. my main concern is whether my 9.5 compression goal with 5-12 pounds of boost will be safe with out detonation problems. ill be running an intercooler so thatll help alot but idk if itll be enough
Click to expand...

I believe that's really too much compression for a turbo motor. How did it get that high?

Eight to one, or maybe, nine to one MAX, would be better.

Is your block or head milled? We need to know....

If it's the head, maybe you could trade it for one that's not...

Have you already bought an intercooler? If you haven't, use that money to buy a chemical intercooler (alcohol injector.) That would work better in your case, I think.

Ten pounds of boost is going to be safe for your motor IF you dial the timing (total advance) back to 18 degrees and don't let it ever exceed that, especially, under boost. You'll be sweeping up the broken pieces...

Ten pounds of boost probably doesn't sound like a lot, but I put a Vortech belt-driven, centrifugal supercharger on my 360 Magnum, and it went from 260 rear wheel horsepower to 445. Yeah; just 10 pounds of boost.

How much does your car weigh? That is an important part of this equation. Most early-seventies Darts weight about 3,350, I think.

Dunno what your car is...

I think a 2bbl manifold (junkyard part) and a Holley 350 2bl would work well for you, and you can use the stock cam and valvetrain, and modify the stock exhaust manifold to mount the turbo, and save the cost of headers.

You can run a vacuum line from the carb hat to the top of the fuel pump and boost reference it (the pump), that way. If you limit your boost to 10 pounds, the stock fuel system should do fine...

You may not make 300 horsepower with this setup, but I'm guessing you'll be close.

You'll need some colder plugs, and to make sure your ignition system is in good workung order.

A stronger rear axle assembly would be a smart move, because the 7.25" rear end that most of the /6 cars came with won't live very long, with the torque of a turbo motor. You do NOT need an expensive 8.75" A-body with the drop-out center section, though.

I'll explain why in my next note.
 
Bill Dedman said:
You do NOT need an expensive 8.75" A-body rear end, with the drop-out center section, though.

I'll explain why in my next note.
Click to expand...

Here's the "next note."

Turbo motors (at least, the slant six variety) don't NEED to turn many RPM's to make good power. Your 5,000 RPM limit sounds very reasonable, and you'll be surprised at how fast your car in, without winding it up, like an eight-day clock!

Ryan Peterson's '66 Valiant goes 127 MPH in the quarter mile with a turbo /6, and he never takes it past 5,500.

They (/6's) just don't like or need to be wound tight.

That has a positive effect on the kind of rear end you can choose for your car.

Since you're not going to be needing to change gear sets in the rear end, a drop-out center section suddenly becomes unnecessary, so what are your options? The usual and most practical route seeems to be to acquire a conplete, drum-to-drum 8.25" rear end out of an Aspen/Volare from a junkyard. It will be geared, most likely, in the mid-to-high 2's, which is perfect for your car. Those gears will give you comfortable street and highway driveabilty, and won't hurt your drag strip performance (or, street acceleration, if you don't race) at all. The tall gears will also probably enhance your gas mileage.

I think if you decide to do this, you should forget about big valves for the head, and milling it, for sure.

You're going to save a of of money because of the things you WON'T have to buy, like headers, an 8.75" rear end, aftermarket intake manifold, and a high stall converter.

You WILL have to spend some on cold-side plumbing, and that alky injector. I just bought the cheapest one Snowperformace makes for our car, and it was $300.00, but it's a necessity.

You MAY need to get your driveshaft shortened for that 8.25" rear end, but possibly not.

I, frankly, don't know...

Maybe someone else can help us out on that. Anybody????

Ball park figures are never very accurate, but there's a computer pprogram online at that has some drag racing programs that seem to be reasonably accurate. It's at:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php


That program says that with 200 horsepower, your car (at 3,400 pounds) should turn an e.t. of 14.98 at 89-MPH.

With 300 HP, that same weight car (3,400) should run about 13-flat at 104-MPH, trap speed.

My uneducated guess, would be that your car, with 10 pounds of boost and, built as described here, should run in the mid-14's, which would be a good race for a stock 340-powered V8, car of the same weight.

Just my 2-cents.

To go appreciably faster than that, will take some expensive upgrades in the interest of long-term reliability.

You can have a lot of fun with a mid-14-second car.... especially a six cylinder one... LOL!

Good luck with this and ask away; the only stupid question is the one you DON'T ask!!! :)
 
i have a high 11s vw bug, that thing is a ******* blast, a car that is ment to have 50hp, then bump it up to 260+, Naturally aspirated, Running 91octane. this reminds me, i need to stop working on my valiant, and fix the head on the bug ;-), oh by the way this is the small motor im talking about.
 
by the way, turbo motors love low compression, id leave milling the head to a minimum, just make it flat, for big valves... its not needed all that much, with a forced induction setup. id recommend saving your money on a bitchen set of carbs, and electronics, such as msd turbo control boxes and whatnot.

im not very familular with turbo slants, i usually see them as a drawthrough, has anyone done a blowthrough setup, i havnt seen one. personally i like them better, usually make more, and more reliable power.
 
before i posted this thread i tore the motor down to a bare block. just needs cleaned and assembly started. thanks for the info Bill ill be taking notes along the way i hope some more peoples chime in : D heres some before and after pics. i couldnt picture much else for wheels on a 4 door so i ditch the caps glossed up the steels added white letter tires lmao. i think its perfect.

07-26-11_1553-1.jpg


08-29-11_1921-1.jpg


08-29-11_1922-1.jpg
 
72ddart90 said:
before i posted this thread i tore the motor down to a bare block. just needs cleaned and assembly started. thanks for the info Bill ill be taking notes along the way i hope some more peoples chime in : D heres some before and after pics. i couldnt picture much else for wheels on a 4 door so i ditch the caps glossed up the steels added white letter tires lmao. i think its perfect.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Thanks for the pictures! The wheels look great! I think the whole car looks great!!!

While you have the engine torn down, if you should decide to turbocharge it, you need to check the deck of the block and the head sealing surfaces for straightness. And, don't mill either one unless you have to, and only then a minimal amount; the stock compression ratio is perfect for forced induction.

Good luck; that's a neat car!!!:cheers:
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top