Another cam degree question!!

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on the chain set I have there is no way to set dot to dot.
The dots are frequently not in their correct places, which explains why they won't line up. This has been the case for many years. So…ignore the dots and actually degree-in the cam correctly. It's worth the extra effort.
 
The dots are frequently not in their correct places, which explains why they won't line up. This has been the case for many years. So…ignore the dots and actually degree-in the cam correctly. It's worth the extra effort.
That's what I am doing on my gear drive conversion. You don't even need marks as long as you use a degree wheel......although I'll probably mark it anyway.
 
That's what I am doing on my gear drive conversion. You don't even need marks as long as you use a degree wheel......although I'll probably mark it anyway
Shoot, that'd make sense. Have you ever have to get in there for some reason you can put the timing set back on there (as long as you're going with that same Cam) and you'll be right at the same place . Or is there another reason for you wanting to Mark it?
 
Shoot, that'd make sense. Have you ever have to get in there for some reason you can put the timing set back on there (as long as you're going with that same Cam) and you'll be right at the same place . Or is there another reason for you wanting to Mark it?
Just for the hell of it, I guess. lol It'll make it quicker to line up the next time.
 
If you don't degree the cam (just go dot to dot) how do you know it is correct? I had one engine (the one in post 17) that was more then 10 degrees off at dot to dot.
 
So I spent a lot of time working with Doug running simulations of cams for him. Doug has run a lot of trial and error cams he has not talked about anywhere but sent me the specs to run in the model. The model did exactly what he found in real life and we were about to get a test cam that ground for max torque right before the fire wiped out his home and everything he owned. We have not talked since.

Bottom line is what is said here is exactly what we learned from hundreds of simulations. The reverse cut is no better or worse as Rusty said. The 819 grind is similar to the RV15 and favors a bit more higher RPM. The 2106 is similar to the RV10 and gives up a little higher RPM but makes a bit more low end torque. In the real world you likely would only see this in careful measurements, seat of the pants likely indistinguishable. Personally I would use the 2106 for an automatic and the 819 for a stick where you may wind it up a bit more.

Oh and Oregon Cams have been DEAD ON for timing that I have seen but the dots are often 1/2 tooth off so degreeing it for peace of mind is needed.
 
So I spent a lot of time working with Doug running simulations of cams for him. Doug has run a lot of trial and error cams he has not talked about anywhere but sent me the specs to run in the model. The model did exactly what he found in real life and we were about to get a test cam that ground for max torque right before the fire wiped out his home and everything he owned. We have not talked since.

Bottom line is what is said here is exactly what we learned from hundreds of simulations. The reverse cut is no better or worse as Rusty said. The 819 grind is similar to the RV15 and favors a bit more higher RPM. The 2106 is similar to the RV10 and gives up a little higher RPM but makes a bit more low end torque. In the real world you likely would only see this in careful measurements, seat of the pants likely indistinguishable. Personally I would use the 2106 for an automatic and the 819 for a stick where you may wind it up a bit more.

Oh and Oregon Cams have been DEAD ON for timing that I have seen but the dots are often 1/2 tooth off so degreeing it for peace of mind is needed.

What software are you using?
 
What software are you using?

And like Rusty said the head is the limiting factor. Larger valves and simple cleanup got the 2106 to perform as well as the 819 at high RPM and took the 819 to higher RPM. in the model.
 
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Performance Trends

Thanks. I have PipeMax and I think I’m going to buy EA from PT. I love their software and Kevin and his guys are second to none in customer service. I can’t say enough good about Performance Trends so it’s nice to hear that EA predicts things that turn out.
 
Thanks. I have PipeMax and I think I’m going to buy EA from PT. I love their software and Kevin and his guys are second to none in customer service. I can’t say enough good about Performance Trends so it’s nice to hear that EA predicts things that turn out.

Yup. People love to not believe models and real data because their experience says they are not right. The models also validate David Vizards techniques. My career as an engineer was based on modeling and using models to validate data. Usually once you dig deep enough into those who disagree you find that there is a second order effect that is not in the model that is helping them out. Once that effect is included things line up. The accurate model will give you accurate predictions.
 
The 819 looks very similar to the Comp 264: 219 @ .050 vs. 220 @ .050; .437 lift vs. .440 lift.

Back around 1990, the Comp 264 cam plus a .100 head mill was worth a full second in the quarter over the stock cam/CR in the slant in my 67 Barracuda (now a 360).

I'm not sure Comp even offers any slant six cams anymore. I got a Comp 264 on sale (from Summit?) a couple of years ago for less than half price. Probably gonna swap the Comp 252 in my 63 Valiant conv. for the Comp 264 some time in the next few months. And yeah, I'm not a big fan of Comp either, but the 264 did work well for me and my rinky-dink motor.

I didn't degree the prior slant six cams I put in, but will take the time to do so this time.
 
Here is what I gave to Doug. I hope I wrote enough in these to recover what we did....






Note I do not recall if I was looking at dynamic compression during this.. it is highly possible that the cam we were looking at may have too much cylinder pressure and I noticed that after we stopped looking at it.
 
I ran across this today in the garage.
This was a Clifford cam from years ago.
Moon cam came in the box!
Note the last picture of the back of the cam card.

Resized_20230224_172920.jpeg


Resized_20230224_172932.jpeg
 
Thanks Rusty.
It ran real good.
I sent it to oregon cams and had it reground for the Lancer.
Big mistake, wish I had it back.
That cam was the one that I went 13.49 in the Barracuda.
The Racer Brown makes a lot of noise, but I don't see a big improvement.
 
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