Another Eagle casualty -

-
NO nitrous used. It's the POS crank syndrome showing up again. Sorry to the OP,your are not the first to suffer,but your one lucky guy as the few I've seen come apart took out lot's of additional parts. Before these cranks became common I ordered one to put in my DD truck,one 5 minute inspection was enough to get me to return it to Summit. I do not understand how anyone could put one in an engine and expect a good outcome.
 
Man that sure sucks Rat. But at least it didn't ruin the block. When was your crank bought new? I wonder if this problem just arose in the last few yrs. as my machinist said he's never had any problems using them when we did mine. Hope mine holds up. It's about the same power level as yours. It was bought new about 5 yrs. ago. Had mine magnafluxed and it looked fine. No one within driving distance did X-ray'ing so I didn't get that done.
 
pishta said:
If you didnt have a windage tray, what would have happened? I mean the crank failed for sure but if it didnt create the windage piece in the bearings, what would we be looking at, maybe just 2 scored rods and a cracked crank?
Click to expand...

The windage tray was asecondary damage cause by the telescoping journal - the metal was left as one 3" x 3" sheet in the sump. The bearings tore up because of the play in the big ends when the journal cracked open.
 
fishy68 said:
Man that sure sucks Rat. But at least it didn't ruin the block. When was your crank bought new? I wonder if this problem just arose in the last few yrs. as my machinist said he's never had any problems using them when we did mine. Hope mine holds up. It's about the same power level as yours. It was bought new about 5 yrs. ago. Had mine magnafluxed and it looked fine. No one within driving distance did X-ray'ing so I didn't get that done.
Click to expand...


Hi Fishy - I bought mine form Summit in November 2010.

As demon 408 pointed out - I assumed it was people doing "dumb things" that was causing these particular brand of cranks to fail.

However -

1 - I have absolute faith in the build quality of the short motor -
the guy who built it also built a 600 FWHP Twin Turbo 318 - He's no dummy.

2 - The engine has never seen NOS - it doesn't rev past 6200 due to a rev limiter

3 - It made 420 FWHP and 450 ftlbs.

4 - It was internally balanced

5 - It was index ground because the crank was out of spec to begin with.

I'm just posting all this to make sure people know - the chance of failure with these items is too great to risk it.
 
Rat Patrol said:
Hi Fishy - I bought mine form Summit in November 2010.

As demon 408 pointed out - I assumed it was people doing "dumb things" that was causing these particular brand of cranks to fail.

However -

1 - I have absolute faith in the build quality of the short motor -
the guy who built it also built a 600 FWHP Twin Turbo 318 - He's no dummy.

2 - The engine has never seen NOS - it doesn't rev past 6200 due to a rev limiter

3 - It made 420 FWHP and 450 ftlbs.

4 - It was internally balanced

5 - It was index ground because the crank was out of spec to begin with.

I'm just posting all this to make sure people know - the chance of failure with these items is too great to risk it.
Click to expand...

Yeah it definitely shouldn't have failed at that power level. I had the index checked on mine and it was spot on and journal out of roundness was very good so hopefully that's a sign I got a good crank. I guess time will tell. I do know that if I ever do a stroker again I won't use an Eagle because of seeing failures like yours.
 
Rat Patrol said:
Thanks Dusted - I'll be looking at a SCAT or MP cast crank - the engine will never make more than 480 at the crank as I'd be happy with that.

I just hope this serves as a warning to all and yu stay the H@%ll away from this cr@p!!

Don't believe the "up to 500 HP" BS!

- there were NO mistakes made in the machining or assembly - it was all done on the basis of making 480-500HP - I just "cheaped out" on the cam/crank/heads because I decided I didn't need a 500HP engine .
Click to expand...


Scat , Eagle and MP all made by the same company in china. Look at the size of the Hole drilled through that journal. This is why they recomend a 273 forged crank on 318 and 340. No holes through the journals. My billet crank doesn't have a hole either. All 340 360 cranks are drilled for the heavy rods and pistons they had. newer pistons and some rod work and you don't need the holes. On a 360 your stuck with them you can't get a 273 or 318 cranke in. so go forged.
 
It sort of looks as if someone was grinding weight off of the crank journal instead of adding heavy metal to the counter weight. That would be cheaper for the guy Balancing it , but it would lose strength in that area.
 
I was going to ask if they were made in China...
 
Oldmanmopar said:
It sort of looks as if someone was grinding weight off of the crank journal instead of adding heavy metal to the counter weight. That would be cheaper for the guy Balancing it , but it would lose strength in that area.
Click to expand...

The crank was taken .020th down if I remember correctly.

I'll check the counter weights and the bearing backs when I next visit the shop - might reveal a bit more.
 
I have a SCAT cast crank in my 408 stroker. my local machine shop checked it out and they said it was a very nice piece....but of course, a scat forged crank would be even better! :)
 
There's really only three options IMO: a convertor hub issue causing a bad harmonic at the back of the crank, detonation, or poor metalurgy/manufacture. That is not a normal break IMO. They usually break around the journals. They twist apart... That's a weird place to break a crank. I can also say I've got two of those in service and one in storage. One is pretty stout, making 450+ and not driven lightly, and running large open chambers. It's been runnign well for several years and 10K miles. That being said, I did stop using them over a year ago and wouldn't use another one due to finish quality and overall track record.
 
Rat Patrol said:
The crank was taken .020th down if I remember correctly.

I'll check the counter weights and the bearing backs when I next visit the shop - might reveal a bit more.
Click to expand...


What I ment was that it looks as if there has been some grinding on the crank in the picture. Not the bearing surface the crank it self looks as if there is grinder marks. I have seen shops take out metal like this so they don't have to add heavy metal to the counter weights.
 
No, they did it because the 273 and 318s shared the same basic crank design.
 
This is an eye opener for me i have a 410 short block been sitting on my stand for 3 years. Eagle cast crank. My machinist ground the crap out of it. It wouldnt balance. He ground the same location on crank. And then externally balance. Im afraid to run this thing. I looked back up the part number for the crank and it is internal balance. Im thinking of tearing it down.
 
joes68340s said:
This is an eye opener for me i have a 410 short block been sitting on my stand for 3 years. Eagle cast crank. My machinist ground the crap out of it. It wouldnt balance. He ground the same location on crank. And then externally balance. Im afraid to run this thing. I looked back up the part number for the crank and it is internal balance. Im thinking of tearing it down.
Click to expand...


I know I would be scared to run it myself as well. This might be your fair warning. lol
 
Oldmanmopar said:
What I ment was that it looks as if there has been some grinding on the crank in the picture. Not the bearing surface the crank it self looks as if there is grinder marks. I have seen shops take out metal like this so they don't have to add heavy metal to the counter weights.
Click to expand...

Shure does look like some grinding has been done. It doesn't look like it can be too strong.
 

Attachments

  • 2012-01-16143254.jpg
    65.3 KB · Views: 144
joes68340s said:
This is an eye opener for me i have a 410 short block been sitting on my stand for 3 years. Eagle cast crank. My machinist ground the crap out of it. It wouldnt balance. He ground the same location on crank. And then externally balance. Im afraid to run this thing. I looked back up the part number for the crank and it is internal balance. Im thinking of tearing it down.
Click to expand...

From the sound of it I'd pull that thing out and toss it in the junk. I think I'd find a new machinist too.
 
Thats what I am going to do. Trouble is there arent any good local Mopar! machinests.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top