Another guess my SB 340 et 1/4 mile :)

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So I just put new pro billet msd dist. In. Did my initial at 24. Still burns extremely ritch. Sore eyes. Turned idle screws all the way in with no effect. Revs up. When I try to turn down curb idle she dies.

When I do my total timing do I have to do anything to the dist. Like lock out??
This is all new to me.
 
Locking out a dist is a hole different thing. no mechanical advance in the dist. Were you set the dist is were the timing is from idle to full rpm(Don't let this confuse you. you don't have it, so don't worry about it.)

you have your initial set, now slowly rev the eng until the mechanical advance stop advancing. depending on the springs (used in the dist) it should stop advancing between 1500 and 3500 rpm. This is you total advance.

If it likes 24 grate but total shouldn't be above 34-36
 
power is good but ur suspension is about 90percent of what ur car runs. u need toget that dialed in and the worry about power its all in the 60 ft in most races.
 
Yah I hear ya. We've kindof gotten off the original topic. And now just trying to solve my too rich/getting her dialed in problems.
About suspension I have 314/60/15 drag radials(mini tubbed) and gonna run caltracs.
 
the little 340 will surprise you...:D my old 340 was bored 30 over bme dome top pistons on eagle h beams rods,jheads ported,stock dist. locked out , 950 hp carb , comp cam 282 solid 525 545 I think lift cant remember in my 70 duster with 727 trans 8" 5600 verta with 4.57 gear and 28 slicks went 7.40@90 in the 1/8 mile with a 1.67 60' ..needed to tune the chassis but didn't sold the motor to a member here...went big block :prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer:but that motor would carry the front wheels about 3' and about 6" in the air then go to spinning ......drove it on the street a little ...:D:D:D:D:D
 
Is fuel dripping in off the boosters at idle?

If so, you need to address that issue.
 
340Duster247 said:
Yah I hear ya. We've kindof gotten off the original topic. And now just trying to solve my too rich/getting her dialed in problems.
Click to expand...
If your mixture screws are not doing anything, then your carb primaries are open too far, you are idling in the intermediate circtuit instead of the idle circuit. If you flip your carb over, you will notice that the butterflys are at the slot in the barrel instead of the meater screw hole. You can either open the secondaries up some and close the primaries, or you can drill a small hole in the primary blades. Either will allow more air into engine while allowing you to close the primaries down until the mixture screws work again. It is idling too rich because its idling in the transition circuit, the mixture screws are not doing anything.
 
Yes I've tried everything but drilling the holes as I stated earlier. If I turn down the curb idle and close the primarys the engine dies.
 
Where are the mix screws? Set them all at 1.5 turns out. Turn the idle down as low as it will idle.

You should not have to drill the plates to get this to idle.

Riming still up around 20* at idle?
 
On topic

Three is a good shop and trust I went thru carb glitches and this is what we do now a place in so cal called Csu carbs one man show is the best u spend 350 bucks and he will make ur car run like its injected. Trust me its so worth the money .

If u don't have the money take the carb totally apart,rebuild it put floats with 3 threads showing on the top showing, screw the idle screws all the way in and back them out 1 and a half turns,then run the orange pump cam in primary and the pink pump cam in the rear. And then start it snap throttle if it hesitates go bigger squirter size also if u run bigger then 37 run the hollow screw. And send me ur email and ill send u a detailed guide on hownto tune fine tune ur carb..thanks
 
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