Another Mopar Off My Bucket List - Barracuda Fastback

[1967 'cuda]

any kit will probly be for Chevrolet, that will have to be highly reworked ! feel ur pain. remember the chevy dist. on ur fast 2.0 ? no doubt you`ll come up w/ something !!

There's no doubt about the easy availability of parts for GM. Some days I feel like jumping back onto that '69 Chevelle project I've got waiting in the wings just so I wouldn't have to struggle to find parts and because I know it'd be cheaper to complete.

On the bright side, that 'BILLET CONNECTION' company out of Washington may not have an available kit for our power steering but they said they'd custom machine us some brackets if we sent them a few dimensions. After scoping out our balancer & pulleys we sent them this:

 

[1967 'cuda]

John... contact a DMV expert... AAA. quoted 604 in penalties, for California unregistered, since'04 no non op... One phone call, got me tags,for a blazing 216 dollars. Do some research, government gets enough , of your moolah...

Ray licensed the car years ago so the government fees aren't any concern. - It's just the cost of reproducing the fender tag. As we were gathering up documentation to send to that DATATAGS company we realized that the serial number isn't matching the VIN number. - The radiator crossmember and trunk drip rail match each other but they have one digit that's wrong. - It has to be a factory screw up but it may make it more difficult to get a company to accept the application to make the needed tag. I've heard of mistakes like this before.

 

[1967 'cuda]

Well, I have seen alternators run off of the driveshaft. And you could install electric power steering. I know... $$$

For awhile I thought you had a good idea until I realized that a daily driver might spend a lot of time idling and at street lights. - It wouldn't be charging when the car isn't in motion. - And the steering might be a real bear when stopped or at low speed.

 

[Abodybomber]

It's good to hear from you, John. Hopefully, you are feeling better.....

 

[1967 'cuda]

It's good to hear from you, John. Hopefully, you are feeling better.....

Thanks bomber. - Still moving sort of slow since the whole 'heart scare' thing and finding it a bit hard to get motivated. There's a big swap meet coming up Sunday in Lincoln, Nebraska. Maybe it'll rejuvenate my enthusiasm.

 

[Abodybomber]

Thanks bomber. - Still moving sort of slow since the whole 'heart scare' thing and finding it a bit hard to get motivated. There's a big swap meet coming up Sunday in Lincoln, Nebraska. Maybe it'll rejuvenate my enthusiasm.

One day, at a time...John....

 

[1967 'cuda]

One day, at a time...John....

I sure hate feeling like I've skipped some of them days when I was sick though.

I'm supposed to haul my welder over to Ray's place on Sunday so I can do some work after the swap meet. His '71 GTX needs spring perches welded on it's rear end and he's got some subframe connectors to weld in too. The ones he bought are from COMPETITION ENGINEERING and they're pretty basic.

When he stopped over the other day we searched online for different suppliers and came across some nifty ones made by MAGNUM FORCE for A-bodies. They couple them with an additional support to strengthen the front leaf spring mount like a torque box.

Magnum Force Subframe Connectors Mopar Dodge Plymouth Chassis

 

[Abodybomber]

I sure hate feeling like I've skipped some of them days when I was sick though.

I'm supposed to haul my welder over to Ray's place on Sunday so I can do some work after the swap meet. His '71 GTX needs spring perches welded on it's rear end and he's got some subframe connectors to weld in too. The ones he bought are from COMPETITION ENGINEERING and they're pretty basic.

When he stopped over the other day we searched online for different suppliers and came across some nifty ones made by MAGNUM FORCE for A-bodies. They couple them with an additional support to strengthen the front leaf spring mount like a torque box.
View attachment 1715023865
View attachment 1715023866
View attachment 1715023867
View attachment 1715023868

Magnum Force Subframe Connectors Mopar Dodge Plymouth Chassis

Much better.... I run C.E's adjustable shocks, on the front of the Scamp, loved their " upper relocation on four link bars", general motors 64-72 a bodies... Otherwise, that brand name, is just generic anymore....

 

[1967 'cuda]

Much better.... I run C.E's adjustable shocks, on the front of the Scamp, loved their " upper relocation on four link bars", general motors 64-72 a bodies... Otherwise, that brand name, is just generic anymore....

I do like how that MAGNUM FORCE set tries to limit twisting by splitting the front into a wider mount in addition to their leaf spring reinforcement.

 

[Abodybomber]

I do like how that MAGNUM FORCE set tries to limit twisting by splitting the front into a wider mount in addition to their leaf spring reinforcement.

That's good engineering, and took 40 years too long. But they are here, and they exist....Good Night, John....

 

[1967 'cuda]

That's good engineering, and took 40 years too long. But they are here, and they exist....Good Night, John....

-G'nite bomber.

 

[1967 'cuda]

Progress around here has been almost nonexistent lately. Most of the time I find myself waiting for parts before I can move forward.

The Lincoln swap meet was OK but nothing to get too excited about. Although there were Mopar parts here and there, most of them were common items such as valve covers & intakes. One guy had a 426 Cragar blower intake but we weren't in the market for one anymore. A guy from St. Joseph, Missouri was selling a dry sump Hemi pan and a Milodon remote oil pump assembly. Another guy had a bunch of '67 Dart GT parts.

Although I didn't come home with any car parts I still managed to spend a few bucks. I bought a decent scroll saw with an attachment like a Dremel tool for $10 and a pair of matching jackets for Teresa and myself for another $35.

After the swap meet I took my welder to Ray's place to install his subframe connectors. He hadn't fit them before but was confident we'd zip through the installation in no time. After I got everything set up and ready to go we tried sliding the passenger side into place and quickly realized it didn't fit. It was too long. According to Competition Engineering the application was for '66 to '72 B-bodies and his GTX is a '71. Needless to say, progress hit a brick wall fast. I did manage to weld the cross tube for his left rear spring hanger that was loose. I guess I'll have to wait for him to re-order parts before I can get the rest done.

We did make progress on the fender tag we were wanting reproduced. After some back & forth communication with DATATAGS, it sounds like they'll be making one for him. We're still waiting for another response from them so we can get the ball rolling.

Today I spotted this 'Cuda at our local Catholic church. I knew that one of the priests owned it but had never actually seen it out before.

 

[1967 'cuda]

I've been hesitant to make any drastic mods on the Charger until we get the brackets for the alternator and power steering pump. I'm still not positive the radiator location will work where I've got it or if it might have to move forward farther.

If that 'BILLET CONNECTION' company comes through as promised, we should be OK but I'd hate to have a bunch of welded in supports that I'd have to cut back out if they don't.

I realize that the Charger is unlikely to ever go back to it's original restored state but Spence really wants to try to keep from destroying the portion of the radiator support that has the correct factory R/T stamping. He doesn't want to have his car called a clone. But, with all the other modifications the car has he's been OK with some cutting of that support.

I think I'm going to do more cutting after I confirm we've got clearance for all the engine accessories. In preparation today, I picked up some steel angle to finish off the opening in the radiator wall and a section of aluminum pipe to extend the radiator cap upwards a few more inches. We've got clearance problems we needed to solve.

The piece of aluminum pipe I bought is longer than what we'll need but I'll cut it down after I get the new bung that will be welded to the top.

In this photo you can see how the core support overhangs the radiator. Even the smallest diameter caps are tight against the wall.

This is the number stamp we're trying to preserve. It's within a few inches of where I want to make a notch.

The aluminum pipe wasn't a perfect fit. The hole in the filler neck has a slight taper to it so I had to grind and sand and polish until I could get it to slide in.

I used a red marker to indicate approximately where I want to make the notch in the support.

I had to move the radiator forward about 3/4" in order to have room to slide the pipe inside the filler neck. Once the support is notched I'm hoping things fit like a glove. Like I stated earlier, I'm still going to wait to make the cut until the engine accessories are fitted and I'm certain of the radiator location.

 

[69_340_GTS]

I don't know how much room there is between the top of the radiator and that brace, but... could you cut that neck off of the rad, and weld a 90° elbow to it, and then another 90° elbow to that (to make like a sideways "S"), then weld the cap/bung on top of that? Or move the fill pipe to the side of the tank? You can even put a piece of radiator hose on there and attach it to an expansion tank with a cap (i.e. '60 Corvette or '60s Fords with the big 427s, or Cobras). There are lots of ways to avoid cutting that brace. Sort of like this:

 

[1967 'cuda]

I don't know how much room there is between the top of the radiator and that brace, but... could you cut that neck off of the rad, and weld a 90° elbow to it, and then another 90° elbow to that (to make like a sideways "S"), then weld the cap/bung on top of that? Or move the fill pipe to the side of the tank? You can even put a piece of radiator hose on there and attach it to an expansion tank with a cap (i.e. '60 Corvette or '60s Fords with the big 427s, or Cobras). There are lots of ways to avoid cutting that brace. Sort of like this: View attachment 1715026644

We're pretty tight. Originally I wanted to weld the existing radiator filler hole shut and add a new filler tube to the side but I'm not set up to weld aluminum and the local weld shop doesn't want to tackle the job. They said they've had bad experiences with soldered cores coming loose when they've welded some in the past. My new plan would have the pipe welded to a new bung and then I'd use an epoxy on the slip fit into the existing neck. I'd have preferred to have gone a route like you're suggesting but was gun shy after they told me that they wouldn't be held responsible if the radiator got ruined - and they thought there was a 50% chance it would.

 

[69_340_GTS]

Lots of people know how to weld aluminum. I'd look around.

 

[SNKEBIT]

John, that rad support comes really close to the hood when closed. I don't think that plan is going to work. Close the rad top with the smallest cap you can and add a filler spout in the upper rad hose. Done that many times with no room.

 

[Cuda68Scott]

A priest driving an AAR Cuda, ought to be a joke in there someplace! Something along the lines of a "A priest, rabbi, and presberterian were discussing what car God would drive....."

Challenging work on the Charger, yep that vin is close but it appears you have room. Maybe have your son do the cutting!

 

[1967 'cuda]

Lots of people know how to weld aluminum. I'd look around.

I welded aluminum for several years in industry and really felt this job was do-able. I acknowledge there's a risk of messing up the soldered core but figured the heat could be shielded from spreading by using wet rags. Years ago they used to sell an asbestos fiber material that came in gallon cans. It's purpose was to prevent metal distortion while welding. I used it quite a bit doing bodywork. Obviously no one would recommend using it today.

I do know of one radiator shop that's within 20 miles that might take on the welding. Although they have a good reputation for their work, - it's not usually pretty.

 

[1967 'cuda]

John, that rad support comes really close to the hood when closed. I don't think that plan is going to work. Close the rad top with the smallest cap you can and add a filler spout in the upper rad hose. Done that many times with no room.

I haven't checked for how much clearance there is in that spot yet but I know you're right about it being a close fit. I'll probably wrap some plastic food wrap around some clay and position it there before closing the hood so I can get an accurate measurement. With the big hole already chopped in the hood for the blower, I figured nobody would care if I needed to remove some of the hood's under-structure. I think I'll have clearance if I can adjust the height to be just above that cross-member.

We did kick around the idea of running an upper hose filler but preferred to keep the fill location on the radiator if we can. - We are still considering it if we strike out on the other plan.

 

[1967 'cuda]

A priest driving an AAR Cuda, ought to be a joke in there someplace! Something along the lines of a "A priest, rabbi, and presberterian were discussing what car God would drive....."

Challenging work on the Charger, yep that vin is close but it appears you have room. Maybe have your son do the cutting!

When I first heard he had the 'Cuda I did think guys were pulling my leg and it was some sort of joke. A few years back I ran into the priest at the local weld shop. I was driving my red AAR clone and he told me all about his car. - Obviously, he owned it before entering the priesthood and he told me he was never going to part with it. The way I figure it, if one of God's servants is driving a 340 SIXPACK, - then God must surely have a Hemi.

I almost always go to Spence for approval before doing any chopping. So far he hasn't complained too much about things I've cut off. - He's more likely to ***** about things that are going back on if he doesn't think they look right.

 

[1967 'cuda]

Despite the lack of updates, there has been some progress.

Last week Teresa and I went to Des Moines because one of her brothers was going to have a leg amputated. He had been working on a roof and when he stepped off a ladder he stepped into a small hole in the ground and broke his foot. It was bad enough that they pinned the bones. Nine months later it hadn't healed from the surgery yet and an infection set in. He's doing OK now and is optimistic enough to joke about cutting his sock expenditure in half.

While we were in Iowa I spent time on Spencer's Roadrunner. The right header gasket had blown out so I replaced it with a copper one from Mr. Gasket. - Sort of pricey at $45 but it should eliminate the exhaust leak.

After running the car for a minute I noticed a coolant leak beneath it. After inspection we discovered that the heater core had gone bad. Rather than replace it we removed the heater hoses and capped the pump off.

Before going to Iowa I had used some Play-Doh to measure the amount of hood clearance we were going to have above the radiator wall. It was only 1/2".

We ditched the idea of doing any further cutting on the cross-member and decided to proceed with modifying the radiator. We discussed buying an aluminum spool gun for the Miller. It was going to cost $800 without the bottle of Argon that we'd need to go with it. After awhile Spencer decided he'd rather invest in a tig welder. Before returning home I picked up a bottle of Argon and when I got home the new welder was already waiting at my door. It's a HOBART EZ-TIG 165i. I'm not sure how much he paid for it but he felt it would pay for itself over time.

I've always prided myself in being good at oxyacetylene welding and mig-welding but had never tried tig before. The first thing I learned was that I suck with a tig. Maybe I would have had great results welding steel but my initial attempts with aluminum were far from pretty.

I didn't want to ruin the new radiator so I knew I needed to practice before tackling the job. Luckily I had enough scrap aluminum around that I didn't have to butcher anything of value. After a few days of struggling I began to get the hang of it. I'm far from expert but at least it's not an automatic death sentence for parts I need to fuse together now.

I still didn't want to blow holes in the radiator until I'd successfully fabricated something out of aluminum so I decided to make the attachment for the radiator separate and (if successful) then weld it to the side tank.

I made a template out of paper first.

Then I used the template to cut some .040" aluminum. After some bending I welded it together. It wasn't a thing of beauty but I felt it was passable.

My next step was to cut the radiator. I used my air cut off wheel to do the damage. I did my best to salvage the original filler neck so I could re-use it on the new assembly.

I had warned Spencer ahead of time that I might be ruining the radiator. Although I knew I'd try to be careful I wasn't sure the soldered core would survive the heat needed to do the welding. I have yet to attach the new fabbed part to the radiator but the fit is looking good so far.

You'll have to excuse the quality of the pictures. When I was in Des Moines I left my camera on the hood of my truck when I made a parts run. - Not sure where it fell off but I couldn't find it. For now I'm using the built-in camera on one of our laptops. I ordered a used replacement camera off of eBay and it should be here by the end of the week.

 

[69_340_GTS]

Very cool.

 

[360DartGT66]

Nice work, John!

 

[1967 'cuda]

Very cool.

Nice work, John!

Thanks guys. Today I welded the new neck assembly to the tank. I haven't had a chance to have the radiator pressure tested yet but I don't see any indication of damage to the core. - Keeping my fingers crossed...

My welds are still sub-standard. I'm fairly confident they're not porous but they're not pretty either. After dressing them up with a grinder the results won't make you puke but I've seen birds make smoother puddles than mine.

I fit the radiator back in the car. If this thing holds water our clearance problems should be over.

The cap is plenty low now.

The new (used) camera showed up today. Hopefully these pictures will be clearer than the last ones.