Another Mopar Off My Bucket List - Barracuda Fastback

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360DartGT66 said:
Are you saying you think they feel superior to you and therefore don't need to show you any courtesy? That doesn't exactly help their standing in my book.
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It sure doesn't make me think any better of them either. I could be wrong though. Maybe they just don't like my face.
 
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1967 'cuda said:
I'll go out and get me some. I'd only been using WD-40 before trying the PB Blaster and was surprised how much better it worked. If that Aero Kroil works even better it'll be something I want to keep on hand.
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Pb blaster doesn't work. I've used it plenty and it does f!@k all. Kroil is used by the local gunsmith downtown. It's not cheap,but hey if it works then it's worth it!
 
Its amazing how some neighbors just don't seem see the log in their own eye. Literally a week after we had moved in to our current house, I got a letter from a neighbor behind me threatening to sue me because my dog barked in the morning. We did not realize our dog was doing that, and took care of he issue by leaving her inside in the morning. But these neighbors also had a dog that was twice as bad as our dog, plus they also had these loud weekend parties where we found beer bottles and trash in our yard and swimming pool afterwards. They finally moved away a few years ago.

I am thinking they just did not like my face either. Here is a recent selfie:
 

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360DartGT66 said:
Can't see why. Your face looks just fine in your profile pic. :D
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Profile pictures can be misleading. For the real me you'd have to picture the elephant man on a bad day.
 
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needsaresto said:
Pb blaster doesn't work. I've used it plenty and it does f!@k all. Kroil is used by the local gunsmith downtown. It's not cheap,but hey if it works then it's worth it!
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I really did have much better results with the PB Blaster than I'd had with WD-40. I'm anxious to see how well that Kroil stuff works. I'm heading to the local NAPA to see if they've got it. I see that they want $25 for a 16.5 oz. can on eBay. - That is pricey.
 
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The Sebring's back on the road. Now it's time to tinker with the Roadrunner for awhile. I'll do the valve cover swap and try re-phasing the distributor with a 20' initial advance.
 
I re-phased the distributor using the 20' advanced setting. It doesn't want to stay running set there. Starting isn't any easier either. I'll have to rethink what to try next.
 
This is the portion of the FAST instructions that deals with rotor phasing:

MSD 2-Wire Distributor

– In stock form, these are not configured for use with aftermarket fuel injection systems. The following procedure must be followed.

1.
Start by locking out the centrifugal advance on your distributor. The distributor must be physically “locked out” so that the relationship between the pickup and the paddle wheel does not change with engine speed or load. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for the proper procedure to lock out the centrifugal advance for your distributor. (This is a very important step; please do not skip.)

2.
Once your distributor is locked out, roll the engine over to TDC on #1 compression stroke, and set your distributor to the #1 position.
3.
Insert your distributor into the engine but do not clamp it down yet.
4.
Rotate the distributor body so that the pickup is aligned with the closest paddle on the paddle wheel. It is important for this the paddle to be as centered as possible, but there will be an opportunity to check the alignment and compensate for any misalignment with the hand-held later in this installation procedure.

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5.
Clamp down the distributor.

6.
Next, it is important to phase the rotor to the cap. This will ensure that the rotor is in the correct position throughout the timing sweep in order to fire to the correct cylinder terminal. If the rotor is not properly phased then during operation the rotor tip can sweep too far away from the correct terminal causing a weak spark or mis-fire and a lot of electrical noise. In order to correctly phase your distributor, you will need a phasable rotor (such as MSD PN 84211) if you do not already have one.

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7.
Install the phasable rotor bottom and loosely install the rotor top.


8.
Next, rotate the motor backwards from TDC to 30° BTDC. 30° is a good average timing that will work well with most EZ-EFI® installations. If you know that your engine will be running significantly higher or lower timing, please adjust accordingly.

9.
Set the cap on the distributor and mark the middle of the #1 terminal on the distributor body.

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10.
Remove the cap and adjust the phasable part of the rotor until the center of the rotor tip is lined up with the center of the mark you made. Then tighten the rotor adjuster screw and install the cap.

11.
Your crank signal is now set and your rotor is phased.

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I've read and re-read the instructions and repeated the process several times. I'm not sure if setting things up with the engine set at 25' advanced would help, but that's my next idea.

I realize I could call FAST tech support for advice at the point I'm at but I'd like to experiment a bit more before I do. If nothing else I'm trying the few things that I think they'll advise me to adjust. Rather than play phone tag with them in between adjustments I'm hoping to be able to give them more info that will lead to a solution.
 
I finished buffing those valve covers and got them installed. I'm still not sure what we'll end up with for an air cleaner. If we do install an air grabber hood I think we'll modify the factory design unit to get us the hood clearance we'll need. It might be cool to install a finned aluminum top that matches the valve covers and use it with the air grabber base.

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360DartGT66 said:
Those valve covers look real nice. As does the rest of that engine bay. :thumblef:
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Thanks. I think the old Mopar Performance covers look a lot better with the addition of those 383 emblems. I should find something to coat aluminum with that won't flake, peel, or turn yellow over time. There's already a bit of corrosion showing on the intake and I've polished these valve covers at least 3 times already.

The engine bay looks awfully busy to me. I'm hoping we'll be able to route the wiring better when it comes to the Charger. I like the look of an engine compartment that is a lot cleaner.
 
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They say that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. I guess by that definition my son is totally sane. Every time I think we've got a plan of action for his 512 Charger build he throws something new into the equation.

We started out with a stock suspension that I rebuilt. - He decided to switch the front to a HDK tubular front, coil-over, rack & pinion setup.

I replaced his rusted out floor pans with new AMD sheet metal. - He decided to change the (originally automatic) R/T to a 4-speed. I had to chop a hole in the new floor to add the hump. AND now he's talked about adding a Gear Vendors overdrive that will necessitate more cutting.

We'd freshened up our 6-71 and I did have to modify the bottom of the blower case and snout to clear our distributor and also had to notch the intake. Then it was decided that we needed a bigger blower. So I guess we're going to be buying an 8-71.

We'd bought the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads for the 512 but switched direction after Mike (from MRL) told us they wouldn't flow enough to hit Spencer's HP goals. It sounded as though we'd be going with some Max-Wedge design heads so I measured our blower intake to make sure it was compatible. Now my son is thinking about a set of B-1s.

My son had me cut apart the supercharger intake to build in a pair of heat exchangers for an intercooler. If we go with the B-1 heads we'll have to get another intake now.

The tti headers we'd bought for the Charger ended up being used on the Roadrunner after my son decided that 2" primaries were too small.

We'd narrowed the 8&3/4 rear and installed Moser axles. I think we're still good with using it but my son is now thinking the new 15X10 Keystone Klassics won't allow him enough tire for traction. He wants to switch to a pair of 15X12s and ditch the new M/T cheater slicks that are mounted on them.

Yup, my son must be completely sane because we never seem to get a chance to do the same thing twice. Heck, we rarely get a chance to complete things the first go around.
 
1967 'cuda said:
Thanks. I think the old Mopar Performance covers look a lot better with the addition of those 383 emblems. I should find something to coat aluminum with that won't flake, peel, or turn yellow over time. There's already a bit of corrosion showing on the intake and I've polished these valve covers at least 3 times already.


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John, try to find some stuff called Zoop seal, Seals them up nice.

edit,,,,, looks like they closed their doors.
 
jaws said:
John, try to find some stuff called Zoop seal, Seals them up nice.
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jaws said:

edit,,,,, looks like they closed their doors.
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Jaws, thanks for the tip. I'd never heard of it before. I did a Google search for the Zoop Seal and came across this thread:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?750729-Zoop-Seal-is-no-more

According to one of the folks, Zoop Seal is no longer available (but I see that Summit Racing still offers it). The person in the thread says that the guy that made Zoop Seal has a new & improved formula called 'SHINESEAL'. I see that Summit sells it too. Both of them are pricey but I guess it's money well spent if it works.
 
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1967 'cuda said:
... The engine bay looks awfully busy to me. I'm hoping we'll be able to route the wiring better when it comes to the Charger. I like the look of an engine compartment that is a lot cleaner.
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The front mounted distributor of the BB complicates matters a little, I guess.

Are you thinking clean like this? I know it's a Chevy, but still. Saw it at a car show in Estonia of all places this summer.
 

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360DartGT66 said:
The front mounted distributor of the BB complicates matters a little, I guess.
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360DartGT66 said:

Are you thinking clean like this? I know it's a Chevy, but still. Saw it at a car show in Estonia of all places this summer.
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I don't mind the look of the front mount distributors. I think if the spark plug wires are orderly they look nice. Ideally I'd like to have as much of the rest of the engine compartment wiring hidden from view. Even the heater hoses tend to clutter your view of the motor. If I could hide the windshield wiper and heater fan motors it would clean things up even more. I think a firewall that's relatively empty looks a lot more sanitary too. My brain goes haywire when I look under the hoods of new cars. They've got so much going on with all the hoses and wires running all over the place.


 
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I hear you on the new cars. Not to mention what it's like to change a turn signal bulb ...

edit: ... and yes, the heater hoses always catch my eye too. They're out of place somehow.
 
It's THAT time of year again. - Time to send chills up the spines of the neighborhood rugrats when we set up our Halloween decor. In addition to the animated zombies crawling from their graves and our animated witch we're adding some special effects.

The last few years we'd displayed Halloween cartoon movies on our garage door with a projector. This year I've decided to add 2 more projectors and try some holographic effects. I was able to find a couple more decent used projectors on eBay very cheap.

Our first attempt was easy. I bought 3 large plastic pumpkins. To create the illusion that they are animated jack-o-lanterns that are singing and telling stories all I had to do was project the video right on them.



The second display was simple too. All I had to do was set up another projector (and computer) in our living room and shine it at our windows that have a sheer curtain covering them.

[ame]

For our 3rd display I had to do a bit of construction. ! bought 3 10' sections of 3/4" emt and built a framework in our yard. I drove the tubing about a foot into the lawn so it's pretty sturdy. It measures 7' tall by 10' wide. Then I stretched a pair of 7' tall sheer curtains across the frame, sewed them together, and weighted down the bottoms. The effect is pretty cool. It appears as if skeletons are rising out of the graves behind the screen and dancing around.

[ame]

The DVDs are made by an outfit called AtmosFearFX. There's not much to them. No movies. - Just short clips made especially for producing special effects with a television or projector.

I don't have any pics or videos of our own yard yet and we've actually only got one working projector here now. The other two should be showing up within the next week.
 
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