Another timing curve question

[Mattax]

Can anyone recommend a good distributor jockey who has a machine and isn't afraid to use it?

I was having a productive discussion during the last two days with one of the few remaining shops I found by Googling, but he took mortal offense when he flatly stated that the spring pins on my dist were riveted in place and not adjustable and I dared to question him. I proudly shared my newfound knowledge that the pins do turn eccentrically (which is "common in the slant six world") I learn by asking questions and playing devil's advocate, not blindly accepting unfamiliar statements as fact, which some people take as criticism of their knowledge or egos. So that one's not going to work.

The other two distributor services I emailed (Sun. night) haven't responded as of Tues. night.
Any thoughts? Or am I just going to do it myself, one R&R and disassembly/reassembly at a time?

I hear ya!

Hops is probably going to be more precise. I can use the one I've used before. I'll have to call the shop to be sure its working OK.

or we maybe we can talk you into a machine of your own.
If I had space for one, I would have bought one from Halifaxhops.
Maybe this year.... real shop space, and not requiring 20 minute drive across town. One of the major inconveniences of living in an old city if you're into any sort of shop or trade work or hobbies.

 

[yellow rose]

I hear ya!

Hops is probably going to be more precise. I can use the one I've used before. I'll have to call the shop to be sure its working OK.

or we maybe we can talk you into a machine of your own.
If I had space for one, I would have bought one from Halifaxhops.
Maybe this year.... real shop space, and not requiring 20 minute drive across town. One of the major inconveniences of living in an old city if you're into any sort of shop or trade work or hobbies.

I can say it's pretty dang nice to have one in the shop. So glad I snatched mine up when I found it. 300 bucks for the machine and 500 to ship that buggar. Worth every penny.

 

[halifaxhops]

That's funny riveted in place! I can do it if needed have sun distrib machines. Need some more info though on the box. PM me.

 

[DrCharles]

He claims to have done 15,000 distributors in his career, and how dare I question him (in almost those words). I hate dealing with egos, it's bad enough I have to put up with it from colleagues in the medical profession!

Anyhow, PM sent. Thanks in advance.
I would love to have my own machine, even though I'd rarely ever use it again! I have the space and $300 is reasonable. Not so much the shipping YR paid ;)

 

[DrCharles]

Today I hooked up the timing light again... turns out I had slightly underestimated the amount that the superlight spring advanced before the heavy loop engaged. So there was hardly any advance left because the FBO plate was hitting the stops at 18.
I experimented by removing the plate entirely (26 degree slots in the dist). And it works just about perfectly... idles at 27, starts slowly advancing at (estimate by ear) 1800, up to 35 by 4000, and I didn't rev it any higher. Thought it was screaming but the tach recall said not.
The ported vac advance doesn't kick in immediately as the throttle is gradually opened (I think AJ expounded on this in a different thread). My can is an "8L" i.e. 16 deg max, and I got just about to 50 revving it unloaded (17-18" vac.) May try it with full manifold, since my idle vac (8") won't pull the can in anyway.
So my timing may be pretty close, and I can always retard it a couple degrees from the dash (0-15 degree knob at my fingertips) if it's too much on the high end... May not have to send it off to @halifaxhops or YR
Now to get back to tweaking that crotchety 2-corner-idle carb since I've altered the timing!

 

[yellow rose]

Today I hooked up the timing light again... turns out I had slightly underestimated the amount that the superlight spring advanced before the heavy loop engaged. So there was hardly any advance left because the FBO plate was hitting the stops at 18.
I experimented by removing the plate entirely (26 degree slots in the dist). And it works just about perfectly... idles at 27, starts slowly advancing at (estimate by ear) 1800, up to 35 by 4000, and I didn't rev it any higher. Thought it was screaming but the tach recall said not.
The ported vac advance doesn't kick in immediately as the throttle is gradually opened (I think AJ expounded on this in a different thread). My can is an "8L" i.e. 16 deg max, and I got just about to 50 revving it unloaded (17-18" vac.) May try it with full manifold, since my idle vac (8") won't pull the can in anyway.
So my timing may be pretty close, and I can always retard it a couple degrees from the dash (0-15 degree knob at my fingertips) if it's too much on the high end... May not have to send it off to @halifaxhops or YR
Now to get back to tweaking that crotchety 2-corner-idle carb since I've altered the timing!

I love the fact you are grinding it out. I love that. I know many guys smarter than me (Tuner for sure...shrinker is another and many, many more...Joe Sherman also said this, but I only know Tuner personally, the others I've read what they have posted in other forums) say that on the dyno of you don't check the timing at the RPM the engine will see while running you're not getting it timed correctly.

While 4K sounds like it's screaming, if you plan on shifting at 6k or whatever, you may want to put someone you trust in the seat and let them run the throttle while you run the timing light. Have them start at whatever RPM you think (in your case I'd say start at 4K because you've already been that high) and have them go to 5k take a reading, let the engine come back down (reduces the blood pressure a bit!) and then go to 6 and do that until you hit the max RPM you'll see.

That way you will KNOW where the timing is, and if it's not what you want, you can correct it.

Just my .02

 

[DrCharles]

It's not so much that I'd need to trust the gas-pedal-presser, but more of a "did I build that bottom end tough enough". At least I don't have to worry about a steel fan blade, but I REALLY don't want to be standing next to the engine with the hood open, if a rod/piston comes out the side of the block Probably will be shifting at 6500 if not higher...

Anyway, I have long believed that "Any fool can write a check". But there is great satisfaction in doing it myself, even if the results aren't perfect. Except the paint. I tried that twice and learned my lesson ;)

 

[mbaird]

I had a water pump shaft shear off on a 454 Monte I had just built. I was doing exactly what you just described.
That was a come to Jesus moment !
Luckily the fan went straight forward and was subdued by the radiator...( Which did not survive the ordeal). Lol

 

[DrCharles]

Been away on business for the last week. Post office has screwed up the arrival of my 11/22 degree slot piece from Hops anyway, but it'll be ok with the 13/26 for now ;)

I decided to convert my carb to 4-corner idle, and bought a Quick Fuel 12-700 baseplate instead of trying to drill tiny idle holes in the existing one at awkward angles. Today I drilled/tapped the secondary metering block for idle circuits and needles. That was a bit nerve-wracking but they work and are solvent-tight when closed

Tomorrow I'll start on the main body (just a few short straight holes). Also considering drilling straight down through the air cleaner stud hole and putting a removable orifice in, so I won't have to drill holes in my brand new butterflies to maintain the proper idle speed with the t-slots in the right position!