Anti-Lock Brake Conversion?

-
You don't need nor want ABS. What you WANT is to balance the system so that it stops correctly. The main ingredients are the operating condition of your brake system, whatever changes (conversions) you have done with regard to brake type, size, wheel cylinder size or caliper size and type, AND THE TYPE of brake lining, and the wheels and tires size.

Install an adjustable proportioning valve.

I have just put together a 99 Dakota that I bought "non running" which has 4W ABS. Turns out you need an expensive scan tool (not the dimestore code reader) which programs the module in the truck to "diddle" the solenoids and drive the air out of them.

THAT SYSTEM is coming OUT!!!
I did the brakes on a ford van with ABS once and when it came time to bleed the them I just went down a dirt road and slammed the brakes until the abs kicked in, went home bled them again, and they worked great! No expensive scan tool needed!
 
MrJLR In my opinion the only ABS that works is one with traction control built in like the corvette has, It can control each wheel separately on braking or in a hard corner to steer the car and keep it in the lane.
 
I guessing it's not very fesible. ....thought I'd ask about it though. ...

Thanks for all the replies!

Jeff
 
I seem to recall a gentleman on here who made his own custom traction control system by using the cooling vanes in his front rotors as wheel speed sensors... I'm not sure if there is a megasquirt-esque system you could use to program it, but all you really need is wheel speed sensors, an ABS pump, and a computer. You can do anything to a car if you are willing to put enough time, money, or both into it.
 
I seem to recall a gentleman on here who made his own custom traction control system by using the cooling vanes in his front rotors as wheel speed sensors... I'm not sure if there is a megasquirt-esque system you could use to program it, but all you really need is wheel speed sensors, an ABS pump, and a computer. You can do anything to a car if you are willing to put enough time, money, or both into it.
Good idea!
 
My 91 1ton had rear anti-lock. It used the accumulator and kicked the pedal back. But, in very slick situations, and understanding that I can drive very well, it did help keep the back end "in the back". But that's because in a truck the brakes are designed for much heavier stopping needs than empty in the back and on snow...
I'll say simply - if you feel you need antilock for your car, you need to learn to drive it much harder, learn to feel the deficiencies in the factory brakes or aftermarket upgrades, and address those. Honestly if you're in a situation where a computer can stop you faster, you already fucked up.
 
Side note, I think people often forget the purpose of ABS. The purpose of ABS is to allow the driver to steer under hard braking, not to help them stop the car faster. Granted, people have various levels of skill in doing this without ABS. What people forget, especially for racing, is that the most effective way to stop a car is called threshold braking, which is the point of maximum brake pressure before tire lockup. That way you utilize the greatest amount of traction available to you.
 
I think if you want to give it a shot and you can pull a unit from a van, use the latest year you can find and let us know how it works and if it's worth the hassle.
 
-
Back
Top