TA = Big $$$
Any guidance on my 1970 Duster plans
- Thread starter poconos_power
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He's got part of the TA puzzle. The block is the other part.
Nice get without a doubt if it was had for 1K. I get the part about not selling it because you are supposed to use it. As a seller of stuff like that and the "story" sold by some buyers to get things, then see the part for sale somewhere else for a bunch more than you let it go. Nice way to burn bridges.
Good approach, although if it was a complete TA long block, you could definitely fund a LOT of stuff. Guessing it's in the 6K+ range with a TA block. Nice findIf it is a TA block.
A suggestion if you are close to the seller. Get with Barry Washington at The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Home Page
Look here if there for the last six of the vin The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - Found Section - By Year/Plant (1970 -1979)
Give him the VIN on the block, pass side oil pan rail near the block drain plug. If he has any records for the car it came from, still being around, see about getting it back to the original car. He has info on cars that are not listed in the "found" section.
Run that by the seller and give him some proceeds from that potential sale, sale minus your 1K you gave, then split 50/50, you 70 him 30, whatever the legwork to get it back with the original car. Makes it a win for 3 people in that case.
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Scody21
Just send it
Here’s a biscuit motor mount V8 K frame. You can mix / match some of the parts from 76-72 and 73-76 K frames.
www.forabodiesonly.com
[FOR SALE] - 1972 Dart Duster Used Small Block K-frame
This is a small block K frame from a 1972 Dart. Will fit other years as well. No sway bar tabs. Car was a 318. Have brakes and torsion bars as well. Located in Duanesburg NY and will not ship. Asking 200.00 for all that’s seen. Sold as is. Thanks
www.forabodiesonly.com
@poconos_power
That sway bar mount will break off. Not where it should be attached. Not sure if anyone else already mentioned that.
It mounts over where the K frame diagonals for the frame rail. Right below where the strut rod is sticking through. You can see the two bolt holes in the pinch lip.
That sway bar mount will break off. Not where it should be attached. Not sure if anyone else already mentioned that.
It mounts over where the K frame diagonals for the frame rail. Right below where the strut rod is sticking through. You can see the two bolt holes in the pinch lip.
Scody21
Just send it
Agreed. The FF mount is further out by the front horn and is triangulated for better sway bar support. They (FF) also have bolt on lower control arm (LCA) brackets so you don’t have to use the factory arms with the brackets already on them.
poconos_power
Member
Thanks for the rundown @72bluNblu thats a lot to think about. I'm getting a way better idea of what goes into this. Really appreciate the time you took to lay that all out. I think starting out I'm probably not going to be as serious as you, but it looks like theres a lot of tinkering to be done as time goes on.
Seems like starting out it'll be worth it to find a 73+ spool k-member instead of trying to reuse the /6 member in there now with conversion mounts. Looks like theres options out there too! Which is great.
Glad everyone confirmed that sway bar is installed wrong, I had my suspicion when I first saw it. I'm happy to say, I didn't do that. I'll need to check how it's attached to the LCAs.
And look, with the TA engine, I had to go again tonight and check the block casting, yes it's real, and yes I'm still planning to use it. However I may check the registry just in case, why not?
Seems like starting out it'll be worth it to find a 73+ spool k-member instead of trying to reuse the /6 member in there now with conversion mounts. Looks like theres options out there too! Which is great.
Glad everyone confirmed that sway bar is installed wrong, I had my suspicion when I first saw it. I'm happy to say, I didn't do that. I'll need to check how it's attached to the LCAs.
And look, with the TA engine, I had to go again tonight and check the block casting, yes it's real, and yes I'm still planning to use it. However I may check the registry just in case, why not?
340six
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The way I read it the seller sold him the engine weather it is a 340 with sixpack, slant six, or a 426 Hemi under the agreement to personally use it. Instead of the engine just sitting, it would be going to used by him personally.
The last things I sold I in no way would have practically gave away. I was lied to by buyer's stating they needed it for personal use. Prices were to help them out with their projects. Only to see them right away sell the stuff I gave deals on based solely on the fact it was helping them out with their ride. Some stuff was even begged, I need it sell/give me it.
So when I read guys say sell it that's just not cool. It was bought with the intention of the buyer using it.
The last things I sold I in no way would have practically gave away. I was lied to by buyer's stating they needed it for personal use. Prices were to help them out with their projects. Only to see them right away sell the stuff I gave deals on based solely on the fact it was helping them out with their ride. Some stuff was even begged, I need it sell/give me it.
So when I read guys say sell it that's just not cool. It was bought with the intention of the buyer using it.
Scody21
Just send it
You want a V8 K frame. Either 68-72 or 73-76. It does not really matter which one, but there are a few idiosyncrasy you have to know about.
The early K frame 68-72 has biscuit motor mounts and if with a sway bar, the bar mounts similar the one in the photo. (67 k frame can be used but is one year only and has only one idler arm ear)
The late K frame 73-76 has spool mounts and the sway bar passes through the center of the K frame.
The lower control arms without sway bar tabs will work with all the years. The the LCA with tabs are early / late K frame specific.
There are 2 size upper ball joints in the upper control arms. This dictates what spindle is used unless the spacer sleeve is used.
The center steering link is a little different between the change over mainly the angle where the inner tie rod connects.
The big one is you have to find a set of 340 motor mount brackets as the 360 and 318 are a little different.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I'm not a fan of the early biscuit mounts. If 1 fails it will cut into your upper radiator hose unless you add a strap or I use a small chain with a bicycle tube for a liner attached to K frame and engine mount bolt. The quality of the mounts are crap now unless you buy the truck mount type but raises engine height (I'm not knowledgeable there) or go solid mount. The spool mounts won't do this.
Good for youFinally to everyone saying "sell the TA"... No.
A man of his word is a rare commodity these days.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I'm a fan of the '73-76 spool mount stuff.
Like @Kendog 170 said, they don't break.
Plus the sway bar is a better design with it's shorter arms, better mounting and it doesn't interfere with wide tires or the later brakes. There is an aftermarket swaybar for the biscuit mount k-frames that uses the later LCA, but it still has limitations.
Note that the '68-72 steering works with the spool mount k-frame, you just have to swap (or keep) the idler, pitman and centerlink all together. The later parts have the benefit of working better with the G3 swap, but it doesn't matter with a smallblock.
Like @Kendog 170 said, they don't break.
Plus the sway bar is a better design with it's shorter arms, better mounting and it doesn't interfere with wide tires or the later brakes. There is an aftermarket swaybar for the biscuit mount k-frames that uses the later LCA, but it still has limitations.
Note that the '68-72 steering works with the spool mount k-frame, you just have to swap (or keep) the idler, pitman and centerlink all together. The later parts have the benefit of working better with the G3 swap, but it doesn't matter with a smallblock.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
actually that sway bar installed correctly for the brand of bar it is. just a shitty brand bar and mount.
DionR
Well-Known Member
For what it's worth, I am doing a G3 swap into a '73 and will roll down the road the first time with fairly stock suspension similar to what you might be thinking about. It's one nice thing about doing a TB suspension, you can make the car drivable and do upgrades over times, compared to a coil over conversion where it is a big hit to the wallet from the get go.
I would do some basic upgrades from the start though, including gusseting and fully welding the k-frame and doing subframe connectors. The motor is out so it is a great time to weld in subframe connectors without the weight of the engine flexing the body. And pulling a k-frame later to gusset/weld it a pain.
After that, put whatever parts you need on it to get it rolling. Only caveat being that if you need new parts, it might be worth springing for some of the upgrades so you don't have to (in theory) buy them twice.
And then go autocross it. Don't wait for the final iteration of the build or worry about being competitive. Go enjoy it as it and get some miles under your belt. Upgrade it as you see fit and enjoy the improvements over time rather than daydreaming about "someday".
Get the VIN number off of that TA block and post it up on www.forebodiesonly.com and https://forum.e-bodies.org a decent chance that somebody might be trying to find that block to match up with their vehicle, this brings extra money. Either way, I would either sell it to a restorer or trade it for a built 408 stroker motor. Tuning the carbs on a six pack is not exactly fun, so you'll be doing yourself and another restoration a favor.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Looks like a nice car to start with. I became addicted to autocross almost 4 years ago. Don't worry about being the fastest out there, because chances are you never will be. You will, however, have the coolest car there! I wouldn't worry about the ride being too harsh if you go with large torsion bars. It's all about the shock you use to control the big bar. That's the beauty of pro-touring cars, they can handle on the autocross and drive to and from the event with a perfectly comfortable ride. The same can't be said for the guys that go "street/strip". So many people buy into the Super stock springs or caltracs and use drag racing shocks when in reality they never go to the track. I've had that setup, it rides like a tank. No thanks!.
Others have done a good job explaining what parts work well, so I won't go into that. I've run the torsion bar recipe outlined here and it works very well on the autocross. (I have an HDK coil over setup now) Maybe not mentioned here is the importance of alignment. You will want at least 6.5+ of caster and maybe .5 of camber to start. If you decide to do more autocross, you will likely want to bump up the camber. It's been very surprising to me how much difference an alignment can make. Here's a photo of my car. Notice the front tires are nearly vertical, particularly the one outside front and the inside tire still has good contact with the ground.
This is an extreme circumstance, but I wanted you to see what a standard alignment looks like.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I think it's hilarious how butt hurt people are getting over the T/A engine and on the suspension forum at that. Please rebuild it and put a single 2bbl carb on it just get their panties further up their ***. While you're at it, paint it Ford blue or Chevy orange.
340six
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I agree maybe John Deer Green?
When I was 17 I was on a budget and had a 2-tone motor.
I ordered a Rebuild kit from PAW {rings, bearings, gaskets} put in a used cam/ lifters and my aluminum intake/carb. I had to borrow a drill as mine burnt up, to use the borrowed dingle berry hone to break the glaze. Someone gave me 2 old cans of paint one black that was just enough to shoot the heads. And my buddy gave me a partial can of VHT yellow. So, the block was yellow, with black heads. My young Chevy friends thought it was a Mopar thing The "Bumble Bee" HP motor was cleaning their clock. They all knew it was a fresh motor, and it ran very strong. But was a just a junk yard 340 from a wrecked car, but guys thought it was some special motor.
I think a 1973 up spool mount K Frame, Sway Bar that pass through the K frame, Add the tabs on lower control arms for it, 73 up and disk brakes. And a rebuild of the motor he has, will be a good runner. Build it with common parts easy to get and the engine he has.
He can always upgrade later.
kick
Well-Known Member
Might as well top the package off with a six pak if you have the extra bread. Just my opinion of course.
340six
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Nothing beats a six pack if you want eye candy, if that's what you are going for eye candy
But a simple LD340 and easy to use AVS Eddie or AFB (I think the AVS Better) would but won't have the I am fast sitting still look.
But has the classic look and I like retro cars.
Could also do the Holley, Air Gap thing for the Chevy look.
poconos_power
Member
Managed to get a late spool style k-member cheap, but with no LCAs. I haven't checked how my sway bar attaches to my current ones as I haven't felt like rolling around in the snow. Why is it that the sway bar tabs make the LCAs year specific? If the ones I have are too early, and I have no reason to believe they aren't original, I guess I'll be looking for a new set once I see how the sway bar connects.
I've got some other projects I need to find a machine shop to make progress with, and I'll just take this k-member over with all that stuff and get it hot tanked.
I've got some other projects I need to find a machine shop to make progress with, and I'll just take this k-member over with all that stuff and get it hot tanked.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
67~72 bars mount on the front of the K and are wider and pick up the LCA tabs outward and low toward the wheel
73~76 bars go thru the K and mount in the notch portion where they pass. they are narrower and pick up the tabs on the 73~76 arms in the near middle of the arm up higher.
aftermarket bars mount to the K and generally pick up to a tab that's bolted to the lower shock pick up, or they utilize weld on mounts specific to the mfgr.
what bar you run will affect what brakes you can run-- or how those mount.
73~76 bars go thru the K and mount in the notch portion where they pass. they are narrower and pick up the tabs on the 73~76 arms in the near middle of the arm up higher.
aftermarket bars mount to the K and generally pick up to a tab that's bolted to the lower shock pick up, or they utilize weld on mounts specific to the mfgr.
what bar you run will affect what brakes you can run-- or how those mount.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Nice! Get it gusseted and you are golden.
Your current LCA's will work if they don't have the early sway bar tabs or remove them if they do. Just weld these on:
Hotchkis Sport Suspension 23367 Hotchkis Sport Suspension Sway Bar End Link Mounting Brackets | Summit Racing
Here is an idea of where they are located:
I can get you a measurement if you wanted to weld them on without having a strut rod in them.
Another option if your LCA's do have the early sway bar brackets is to sell/trade them for a set without any or with the later brackets. Yours should have some value to the right guy if they do have the brackets.
Add these while you are at it:
Lower Control Arm Stiffening Plate
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