Any heating and cooling Guys out there? I have a question

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Cleaning the sensor can work and get you by till you pick up a new one.
Change it out, its cheap and at the very least you know its done. The igniter assembly, you could change that as well....cant hurt while your in there.
 
Changing the sensor is a good first step. But there can be other causes

I said earlier.

There must be a good ground path between the "control box ground" and the BURNER.

Sometimes, rust on the burner near the sensor can be a problem

FLAME PROBLEMS IE improper burner adjustment, dirty burners, improper manifold pressure OR A VENTING problem can cause flame problems which won't trigger the sensor

If the sensor is separate from the ignitor, you can measure the detector current with a micro--ammeter (multimeter) There is usually a "spec" somewhere for acceptable minimum flame rod current.

Of course it could be a problem in the "box" itself.
 
Yup....all that goes without saying....
In an earlier post.....I did say,,,start with the easy items Trouble shooting 101, go from there. Of course if the sensor you replace does not fix the issue move forward, and yes the circuit board would be an item to look at, but after all else is checked out. As for the ground you keep mentioning , for sure , as flame sensors do require a good one....simple check but not likely the issue. If I was there The meter would have been used and is my best friend. Checking flame rod, igniter, igniter signal is a matter of minutes. But here we are tossing ideas to a friend in need over a chat forum.. all that has been said is totally possible along with all the solutions given. IMO and experience if the flame rod/s replacment doesn't work (and it did when he cleaned it so a new one will likely do it) check the circuit board/ replace. It is likely fixed by now anyway...sure hope so! :)
 
The Heating and cooling Guy just cleaned the sensor and everything else.I called him again and he will not return my calls.
 
I hope you have your furnace up and running, but if not ,check your blower wheel for excessive dirt build-up ,can starve furnace for air and you may be going off on limit, that's high temp limit,(sometimes more than 1 limit) shuts burner off but keeps fan on ,check your codes on circuit board, they really help with trouble shooting ,i am sure the tech that came out checked air filter ,and airflow, but a double check never hurts ,you can also check back of main circuit board for burns and or cracks sometimes you will have intermittent failures and codes from cracked solder joints,you also have a condensing furnace ,check drain tubing at flue trap, and burners for clear drains ,hope some info helps or a tech that answers phone lol
 
glad its working,do your flue pipes( pvc flue) go out horizontally through side of house, or vertically through the roof , sometimes pitch is wrong ,and water collects and blocks flue, or freezes, I always listen at inducer motor in furnace for gurgling noise wile inducer is running that's a sign of drains at unit clogged and not draining, also pressure prove switches for inducer motor ,can also be problematic, check to see if water in those pressure tubes , I have seen tubes routed wrong from install when furnace mounted in horizontal to vertical position, hope no more issues, you will be an experienced tech in no time ,
 
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