Ca approved replacement.****, it’s obd1 sorry I should’ve read more carefully.
Not necessarily, the cat may be able to keep up at lower speeds. Was the cat replaced with an aftermarket 50 state legal, or an eBay special when it was done?
All true but if there's an exhaust leak before the cat you will see the post cat o2 reading jumping around. .100-.800. Or even zero... because the front 02 senses the oxygen as well and when it is bouncing bounces further to the rich. What you don't want to see is the pre and post mirroring themselves at the same time outside of wot.Don’t discount the new cat being bad. Even with only 3800 miles since replaced. The cats are very responsible for lowering nox. If you can read live data look at the switching rates of the pre cat o2s and post cat o2s and this should tell you the cat is working or not. The front o2s should switch fast and the rear 02s should be fairly consistent, the fronts should switch between 0.1-0.9 volts fairly quick, and the rear should be pretty steady at 500-700mv. This will tell you the cats are working.
Have you driven it? If you can, go out and drive it steady state for a little bit, then jump on it. Watch the mirror and see if a bunch of crap comes out of the exhaust. This may be a case of just getting the cat up to temp and cleaning it out a bit.This is what is puzzling to me. It's only the 25MPH Nox reading that is off. The 15MPH Nox reading is fine. The only difference running-wise is the RPM change of a little under 1000RPM, unless there is some component I'm not aware of that takes MPH into consideration and/or the computer does something weird at that speed. I was hoping there was something obvious that I've overlooked and that someone has run into that situation before who knows what it is.
You say you have no codes like a p0441. Does it have evap? Is it four-wheel drive and could there be a crack in a vacuum line that goes down around the transmission to some hard lines into the front axle. EGR stuck open not closing all the way?This is what is puzzling to me. It's only the 25MPH Nox reading that is off. The 15MPH Nox reading is fine. The only difference running-wise is the RPM change of a little under 1000RPM, unless there is some component I'm not aware of that takes MPH into consideration and/or the computer does something weird at that speed. I was hoping there was something obvious that I've overlooked and that someone has run into that situation before who knows what it is.
You're 100% wrong, and have no idea what NOx is & how it's generated. High COMBUSTION temps create it, & the primary causes are lean conditions or excessive cyl. pressures, but a hot chamber and lot's of carbon can make it easier to occur than normal.I'm probably wrong here but wouldn't a hotter combustion chamber burn the fuel mixture more completely? I agree with changing out the O2 sensor.
There will be more load (= higher cyl pressure) @ 25mph, which must be triggering the cause, I'm going to say carbon and a cyl. or 2 running lean. I'm also going to guess this pre-OBDII Magnum may need an intake & plenum gasket set, may be sucking oil & un-controlled air into a couple of intake ports, the system will dump enough fuel in to prevent a lean code.This is what is puzzling to me. It's only the 25MPH Nox reading that is off. The 15MPH Nox reading is fine. The only difference running-wise is the RPM change of a little under 1000RPM, unless there is some component I'm not aware of that takes MPH into consideration and/or the computer does something weird at that speed. I was hoping there was something obvious that I've overlooked and that someone has run into that situation before who knows what it is.
No codes of any kind. It runs great....no misses (which should show in the HC and CO readings too) 5 speed manual 2 wheel drive. Coolant is clean and full, no overheating problems at all. We could probably throw in a brand new cat and get it to pass. I'd prefer to figure out exactly what' making it fail instead. We'd also like to keep the price down on this beater too. I plan on starting with decarbonizing the combustion chamber. That's cheap and easy to do. Maybe put in a new O2 sensor too since I think it's the original (and 150K on the odometer). Then the free retest to see if that does the trick. Thanks for all the ideas everyone.You say you have no codes like a p0441. Does it have evap? Is it four-wheel drive and could there be a crack in a vacuum line that goes down around the transmission to some hard lines into the front axle. EGR stuck open not closing all the way?
It would be a bummer if a crack on the exhaust seat made it to coolant that'll cause a misfire, otherwise it could be cracked into the intake seat as long as it doesn't have coolant leaking through keep running and not bring any cells
Well I tend to go for Bosch, that same one on eBay is probably $52, I just bought one and it showed up in 2 days. The bonus with the parts stores you pay that little extra for a warranty most the time and that can come in handyO'reileys has a Walker brand for $37. Bosch is $79. There are few others in between. Anyone have bad experience with any particular one?