Any Torsion bar removal tips?

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MileHighDart

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Trying to get the old bars out, new PST 1.03 bars will be here Tuesday.

I've got the car supported on stands front and back, under the frame so suspension is hanging. I've backed off the adjusters all the way so they are completely loose. I've removed the retainer clips at the back of the bars. But I cant seem to get these suckers to move.
Any ideas?
 
Unbolt the shock, separate the LCA off the lower ball joint, take the nut off the strut rod and LCA pin, and then pry the LCA back the until the torsion bar slides out of the anchor. Then knock the LCA off the front hex and slide the bar out.

Having the LCA free of that other suspension stuff will also make installation of the new bars a lot easier.
 
72bluNblu said:
Unbolt the shock, separate the LCA off the lower ball joint, take the nut off the strut rod and LCA pin, and then pry the LCA back the until the torsion bar slides out of the anchor. Then knock the LCA off the front hex and slide the bar out.

Having the LCA free of that other suspension stuff will also make installation of the new bars a lot easier.
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Or a BFH... LOL...Or the Clamp Tool... LOL
 
if you are not going to save them I would just use a grinder and cut them in half, it is easier to get them out.
 
Take the upper bump stop out, they will slide right out then...With the lower shock bolts removed...
 
A torch works great! Just stand back when you get close to cutting thru!
 
72Dart6pack said:
A torch works great! Just stand back when you get close to cutting thru!
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d1970 said:
if you are not going to save them I would just use a grinder and cut them in half, it is easier to get them out.
Click to expand...

I had a set in a 66 Belvedere that the adjusters were frozen solid so no relieving the tension so out with the cut off wheel. Really loud bang when they were close to being cut through!
 
1963dartgt said:
If you dont want to save them vise grips and a hammer,if you do 2nd post.
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Is it correct to say that because the vice grips will nick the surface, the bar becomes weakened? Would placing a rag or some other material between the vice grips and the bar prevent this or is it not worth trying?
 
MRGTX said:
Is it correct to say that because the vice grips will nick the surface, the bar becomes weakened? Would placing a rag or some other material between the vice grips and the bar prevent this or is it not worth trying?
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Buy the tool.
You will use it again.
 
They can have a small amount of preload on them. Removing the bump stop so the upper arm travels down further might be just enough. Or... remove the bolts at lower ball joint to spindle. This can only help when installing the new bars. I don't know how the aftermarket bars have their hex ends clocked but I would assume its the same. At the end of the day its about where the adjust bolt ends up. Either showing well out the bottom of the lower arm or buried deep into the lower arm.
I have seen pics of one case where the end of the adjust bolt had walked out of the pocket in sits in at the end of that finger. Ruined it. Was that adjust bolt ran way the heck up in there to get ride height? I don't know. I know the nut block sits in a radius allowing the adjust bolts angle to change as needed but is there a limit, some proper geometry engineered into this? Is this why there was a bit of preload on the bars? Did I just overcomplicate torsion bar install? Good luck with it.
 
I take the LCA loose, then clamp vise grips over a rag on the t bar, and take a hammer to the grips. Probably not the best method but i've never had damage issues to the t bar
 
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