Anybody go from performer to an rpm air gap

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Okay I'll see what she does Friday, another question... I run mixed cam2 and. 93... Is this necessary? Could I get away with just 93?
 
Stock heads, .050 down the hole flat tops probably talking 8.75:1-9:1 comp. Coupled with a 284 duration cam, 3800 stall verter, deep gears, and a 3400# car. That combination should run easily on pump premium, if the tune is decent to good.

Make sure that your front suspension has at least 5" of travel or more. Adjust the front ride height as low as you can live with and cut down the upper control arm snubbers to about 3/8" thick. This will give you good front end travel. The more front end travel you have, the less the car will want to unload the rear suspension on the hit.
 
I noticed that no one mentioned an adjustable pinion snubber in the back. With SS springs and long shocks you need a pinion snubber to keep your rear end from twisting and causing spin or wheel hop. Good cheap investment and works well with your setup.
 
I have one on the car. I checked the timing, it has 9* at idle and is fully advanced at 34* at 2600 ish..... Had my little sister working the gas petal.
 
It went the 8.07 on the first pass it spun a couple feet and hooked up. Every pass after That it was going sideways and was pointless. It was the last day of the season when I ran it .track was cold. I want the car to hook up at dip into the 7s consistently.
 
Initial timing is not in the ballpark IMO.

Run it up until it stops advancing.
 
I rant it up to 3500 and 34 is all it'll go. The car starts and idles fine. Cold hot it doesn't matter....
 
SAM67 said:
I rant it up to 3500 and 34 is all it'll go. The car starts and idles fine. Cold hot it doesn't matter....
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thats a sign that it wants more advance. the way i was told to do mine (and it worked wonders) was to advance the timing 2* initial with the engine at full operating temp until it has a hard start or kicking back on the starter problem and then back it up 2*. that is what the engine wants for initial timing. they you need to limit the mech. advance in the dizzy to what ever your total desired timing is. then you adjust the curve so it is in full by your desired rpm.

my combo likes 26* initial
36* total all in by 2600rpm.
i have a 4000 stall so having my advance all in off idle is not necessary.
 
translation: if you want to mess with the initial timing, shorten the advance. which means taking the distributor out and shortening the slots. They are not suggesting adding 9 degrees to the initial which would result in 41 total. That would be very bad.

Frankly, I don't think its causing the car to spin out of the hole or the lay down at the top. These are the two issues and I think the primary contributors to that are where you thought, chassis and intake.
 
^exactly what I was thinking. If I was leaving off idle or something I could see where initial would be important? I don't have issues with the car starting or idling. And I stall the car around 2500 so it's fully advanced when I leave the line so to speak?
 
SAM67 said:
^exactly what I was thinking. If I was leaving off idle or something I could see where initial would be important? I don't have issues with the car starting or idling. And I stall the car around 2500 so it's fully advanced when I leave the line so to speak?
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Leaving at 2500 on a 3800 verter is probably killing your chassis reaction. With a 4500 8" verter I leave best at 1800. Much higher than and the rear suspension is raised up too much, taking all the hit out of the launch (tires not being planted).
I'd install a set of these springs in the dist. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-925b. In my experience these will drop your total timing down to 1800ish rpm with a corresponding increase in initial timing. Lots easier than welding up slots in the advance plate.
 
Hence,the learning curve. This kind of online help,didn't exist 15-20 years ago. In the day,you tested,and tweaked/tuned the combination . Consider it ,well learned experience. Like how you think,Matt.
 
So I went and read some articals that explained the deal with initial timing. Rather than welding slots and what not, could I just buy like a summit brand or msd 200$ billet distributer? Do they allow for easier adjustment and tweaking?
 
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