Anyone Currently Using a Classic Water Injection System?

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dibbons

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How is it performing?

holley water injection.jpeg
 
It will be most effective when combined with a setup that can take advantage of it. For example high compression only loaded occassionally. This could be NA or tied to something like a supercharger.
Then it will work!
 
Edel had a similar thing, & I believe Carter also. Not very effective for a few reasons:
- limited adjustments to control how much/when water flows
- uses basically a windscreen washer nozzle to inject a solid stream of water, not aerated water like modern systems use.
 
It's not very effective because engines run on the power created by FIRE and water puts fire OUT. Pretty basic.
 
Water injection works very well....when done properly. It was used as far back as WW2, possibly before then.

Systems like the Snow system use a high pressure pump that aerates the water into a mist & it sure as hell works. Friend had this system on his 11:1 engine & it stopped the detonation. Snow uses 2 or more nozzles that go into the intake, with nozzles available in different sizes. The old Holley system is just a single nozzle in the air cleaner.
 
Water injection works very well....when done properly. It was used as far back as WW2, possibly before then.

Systems like the Snow system use a high pressure pump that aerates the water into a mist & it sure as hell works. Friend had this system on his 11:1 engine & it stopped the detonation. Snow uses 2 or more nozzles that go into the intake, with nozzles available in different sizes. The old Holley system is just a single nozzle in the air cleaner.
Detonation on 11:1? Someone doesn't know how to build an engine.
 
Water injection is an antidetonant and also can be used for certain types of emissions control (such as if you want to pass NOx emissions while running extremely lean AFRs). May have made sense when leaded gas had just been banned and Big Oil couldn't figure out how to put back the octane. Now, water injection really only makes sense if you're running a lot of boost (like the WWII aircraft) or for some reason trying to drive a 14:1 compression race motor on the street on pump gas.
 
Lots of factory engines with much less than 11.3:1 get detonation. You will find some on this website. I think the factory engineers knew what they were doing....
 
The engine in post #6 was built in Ohio & shipped to Australia, complete. It was dynoed in Ohio & ready for use. It had light throttle pinging, which was fixed by using Snow Performance water injection.
 
Wouldn't light throttle pinging be Air fuel ratio or timing?


Certainly can be one or both of those as well as RRR’s vacuum leak.

It can be difficult to get enough initial timing and then slow the curve down enough to not get it rattling on top in or killing power around peak torque.

You really need to be on a dyno where you can load the engine at different rpm and load to sort out what the timing curve should be.

I have spent several hours just getting the curve right on some of these distributors and so far, the most difficult distributor to get what I want is any with a GM advance mechanism.

That is my least favorite one to tune. Actually right now the Chrysler stuff is harder to do but when I make a fixture to hold the weights so I can modify them then it will be easier than the GM mechanism.
 
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