anyone do a painless wring harness?

-
I just bought a 500 dollar Painless kit here locally, for over a hundred bucks. It was missing the box of connector parts, and claimed "short amount" cut off the dash harness. Well, it turns out the 'bay harness was cut a lot shorter.

Even so, looking at what I got, and what is in the missing plastic box, I sure don't see any 500 bucks worth of stuff there. The wire gauges "ain't" all that big, either.
 
They're primarily used for hot rod type stuff, but check out Rebel Wire if you're just going to go with a generic kit. They say they're instructions cover Mopar, Ford and Chevy. And they appear to be a TON cheaper than Painless, but I haven't compared them part for part. They also state that not only are the harnesses made in the US, but so are the parts!

I haven't run one myself, but I'm about to get one for my '53 Dodge truck. A lot of guys over on the HAMB swear by them, and have stated they will never go back to Painless kits.
 
here are the diagrams we made when putting the AAW kit in my car. i would think in most kits the basic wiring is done pretty much the same. i mean how many ways can ya hook up your lights lol... and on most kits those wires are labeled .. it seems people get confused with the gm style connector for the signals, putting a mopar ign and charging system in them. they are cake.


http://www.automotiverewire.com/Documents/71DartTurnSignalWiring.pdf

http://www.automotiverewire.com/Documents/71DartIgnitionWiring.pdf

http://www.automotiverewire.com/Documents/71DartCharging.pdf

http://www.automotiverewire.com/Documents/71DartInteriorLighting.pdf
 
Wish i had found those pdf a couple of days sooner..would have saved me several hours of figuring out the ignition switch.....

the two 14g red wires on the end are for key light circuit...
 
the two 14g red wires on the end are for key light circuit...
Click to expand...


not for my 71 they weren't. mine had a separate yellow or orange (i forget at the moment) wire going up the column for that.
 
JRod01 said:
No Government Motor's terminals being installed here! J/K, but I believe you're right. Another bit of advice for anyone going down this road is, I purchased a service manual on cd-rom and that has been a life saver! It takes a long time, but so far, all connections have been correct (knock on wood) Thanks for all the help! It's definitely appreciated.

-JRod
Click to expand...
Put a stock tilt column in a 60s/70s Mopar and you'll find it's a GM column with a Chrysler lock tumbler and adaptor wiring looms about 6" long running from the flat wiring comb and squarish ignition switch plug(s) on the column to the round terminal connector plug(s) in the Chrysler harness. Even as late as the early 90s the tilt columns in the pickups were supplied by a GM subsidiary, although by then the harness plugs clipped right into the column plugs.

As far as Obama Motors is concerned, the Feds didn't confiscate it and hand it over to the in pocket unions until last year.
 
For one more spin...

Going through the same on my 71 Swinger. In the engine compartment I went with all new harnesses from the firewall. The main wire harness under the dash I pulled, un-wrapped it completely and found quite a few suprises in doing that. 70's style splices (twist-n-tape), wire cuts, nicks, etc. Fixed it all with properly crimped splices, and a couple of new connectors where the originals had some minor indications of melting. It'll be a while before knowing the outcome of the efforts as there's still many other things to do on the car, but it's back in and I can sleep at night knowing the true condition of the wiring.

Guess what I'm getting at is, if the opportunity is there, go through it completely and or replace so you have an understanding of it's condition and don't under any circumstances be fooled by it being wrapped nicely as you never know what's looming under there!
 
71Dartman440 said:
.........went with all new harnesses from the firewall............ under the dash I (twist-n-tape),................... you never know what's looming under there!
Click to expand...

I've found at least 3 factory "in harness" splices in the dash harness that have FAILED

The best thing you could do while you are at this is to eliminate the bulkhead connector, and upgrade the wiring size to the main feed/ ammeter circuits
 
Since I am about to rewire my car, I wanted to get other people's ideas on which wiring harness is best. I love FABO because, I did a search on "wiring harness" and found this thread. From what I have read so far, this is what I have determined.

Painless
Pros:
  • Good tech support
  • Well Labeled

Cons:
  • Directions are difficult
  • EXPENSIVE
  • A lot of negative feedback

EZ Wiring
Pros:
  • Marking on each wire
  • Inexpensive
  • Fat Wiring

Cons:
  • Spotty instructions
  • Lame website (my opinion)


Enos
Pros:
  • Inexpensive
  • Responsive human tech support (my opinion, after filling out their web form and a human called me.)

Cons:
  • Only one person suggested them
  • So-so website (my opinion)

Rebel
Pros:
  • Inexpensive
  • USA Made

Cons:
  • Only one person suggested them and had no personal experience
  • Website is lame (my opinion)
  • Can't tell from pictures on website the details of the fusebox

Ron Francis
Pros:
  • Very nicely laid out
  • Cool panel drop down (my opinion)
  • I really like the "select-a-circuit' fuse system (battery or ignition)

Cons:
  • Expensive
  • Government Motors based

I wish to thank everyone for their opinions. At first, I was going to go with a Painless Harness (since that is what Summit and Jegs sells). However, after doing FABO research, I am leaning toward the Ron Francis system. I really like their fuse box.
 
Talk to Ron Francis. He can supply Mopar connectors. I believe he is a member on this board, but may not be active.
 
4door68 said:
Since I am about to rewire my car, I wanted to get other people's ideas on which wiring harness is best. I love FABO because, I did a search on "wiring harness" and found this thread. From what I have read so far, this is what I have determined.

Painless
Pros:
  • Good tech support
  • Well Labeled

Cons:
  • Directions are difficult
  • EXPENSIVE
  • A lot of negative feedback

EZ Wiring
Pros:
  • Marking on each wire
  • Inexpensive
  • Fat Wiring

Cons:
  • Spotty instructions
  • Lame website (my opinion)


Enos
Pros:
  • Inexpensive
  • Responsive human tech support (my opinion, after filling out their web form and a human called me.)

Cons:
  • Only one person suggested them
  • So-so website (my opinion)

Rebel
Pros:
  • Inexpensive
  • USA Made

Cons:
  • Only one person suggested them and had no personal experience
  • Website is lame (my opinion)
  • Can't tell from pictures on website the details of the fusebox

Ron Francis
Pros:
  • Very nicely laid out
  • Cool panel drop down (my opinion)
  • I really like the "select-a-circuit' fuse system (battery or ignition)

Cons:
  • Expensive
  • Government Motors based

I wish to thank everyone for their opinions. At first, I was going to go with a Painless Harness (since that is what Summit and Jegs sells). However, after doing FABO research, I am leaning toward the Ron Francis system. I really like their fuse box.
Click to expand...

enos are great guys! Living in slo town i got to know them well! i got a black box for my AFX, loks greeat!
 
Enos is a great system. They were my goto before I switched over to American Autowire. I would still use them in a heartbeat if I was scratch building a harness for a streetrod. I find the Autowire to be a bit easier to use because of they lay out the sections of their harnesses and they provide most everything you need.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top