Anyone got directions/torque specs for rebuilding 8.75 clutch diff?

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LXguy

LXguy

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Hey All

Got my replacement gears and was going to have a go at rebuilding this 8.75 sure grip unit. Anyone got instructions/torque specs?

Thanks!

Steve
 
There are 2 types of clutch packs. A "smooth" version includes dished plates, an "aggressive" version includes dished plates and dished discs.

Starting at the clutch hub:
1. Flat plate with ears
2. Flat disc
3. Dished plate with ears (ID facing away from clutch hub)
4. Flat disc or dished disc (ID facing away from clutch hub)
5. Thin flat plate with ears (OEM only) Repro power-locks use thick flat plate with ears

attachment-4.jpg


Always prelube clutch pack with straight friction modifier.

Torque case-half bolts to 50 lbs using red loctite.
 
That's funny, the diffy that blew wasn't assembled that way. What's even funnier is this replacement clutch set I got doesn't include the dished discs. Sheesh.
 
Man, any tips on getting the case back together? Wow!

I'm used to the ford stuff where the case is one piece, you just have to "convince" a big spring to go through a small hole. I thought this would be easier, but I can't seem to get the bolts started.
 
Did you mark the case halfs before you took it apart? If not you may have to play with it a little to get it to set right.
 
LXguy said:
That's funny, the diffy that blew wasn't assembled that way. What's even funnier is this replacement clutch set I got doesn't include the dished discs. Sheesh.
Click to expand...


Look at them carefully, some of then should have a slight cup to them.
 
I didn't make the case before I took it apart. Ooops.

Some of the plates in the new stuff have the dish, but the disks are all flat. Fortunately (?) the diff blew up right away so the clutches and disks in it probably didn't need replaced. I just used the dished disks that were in there originally.
 
Make sure you have the clutch plates oriented correctly and you will have to play with the case to get it to seat properly. Some of the bolt holes will line up while a couple will not, just keep trying till you get it.

I did the same thing on the first one I pulled apart, it was trial and error until I got it right.

Here is a link that might help.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/13.html

EDIT: Did you mark the bearing caps so they go on the same way?
 
thanks!

I did mark the bearing caps, but its actually going in a different 489 when I get it back together.

I pulled the "pins" mentioned in that post out because I'm running Moser axles. Hopefully that's the right thing to pull out...

I think I have the case halves oriented correctly (I think). It kind of makes sense the way the cross pins go in their holes. I"m just having a helluva time getting the bolts started and threading in.

And I'm real tired of sniffing friction modifier!
 
Yup, the thrust buttons can be removed if you are switching over to green bearings. Not sure why you can't get the bolts started, unless you don't have it quite right yet.

The more I think about it, it seems when I had the problem you're having that I thought it was right but when I looked in the holes I could see a slight edge on one side which would not allow the bolt to go in. I kept switching it until they did. There must be only one way it bolts on.

Once you have it right they will drop right in.
 
Steve, make sure and use a pair of axles to align the side gears before you tighten the case bolts down or you'll never get the axles in it.
 
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