anyone have bondo tips?

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hw612

The Mopar Martian.
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ive just started filling my 63, never used filler before, i kinda hate it.
its messy and hard to work with. i have a hard time shaping and sanding it. body work sucks!
 
only tip is.....................mix it thoroughly!.lol
 
cause if it is not mixed completly, it leave some of the bondo soft. and we do not want any softies.lol

also, remember, the smoother and neater you put it on, the less work has to be done to keep a straight line
 
nah, the best mixing board is carboard. cheap and just throw away when done. get a huge box and cut it up into like 14x14 inch pieces, and mix on one side, then when you ready to mix more, just flip it over. when done, discard.

also, do not mix alot more than you need. if you put too much hardener in it, you will not have time to work with it. if not enough hardener, then it take forever to dry
your first few mixes maybe all over the place as to how fast it dries, but you will figure it out in no time! fyi, once you mix it, you will be able to tell by color if it is going to harden too soon or too slow. and once you notice the color that is just right, you will have fun

the darker red it is, the quicker it will harden. (or whatever color your hardener is)
 
Get a 10" half round cheese grater-style body file. After you spread the filler, don't overwork it, leave it as smooth as you can and let it go. If you work it too much, it will start rolling and crumbling. When it becomes the consistency of soft cheese, use the grater to rough out the shape you want, but don't over cut and remove too much. Especially, don't wait too long and let the filler cure too hard - takes a lot more effort to work it.

Let it cure a little more until you can start smoothing out the grater marks with 40 then 80 grit sandpaper. Don't get in a hurry or the uncured filler will clog up the sandpaper. On flat panels use a longboard with your sandpaper and keep the board at an angle when sanding - work on the diagonals, not side-to-side or up-and-down.
 
X2 on the cheese grater etc... also, if someone local can come over and spend an hour or two showing you, it will save you a ton of time figuring it out. I would if I was near you.....
 
I find it best to do light coats rather then heavy. Also just as its about to full harden is the best time to start working it. They do saying not to use cardboard as a mixing board because it does some soak up some of the resins in the filler. Go slow and make smooth strokes 1 direction. There are some good youtube videos on how to mix filler. Watching a few of them could definitely help. They can show you the correct techniques so that you're getting a good layout with the filler. Make sure you fold it when you're mixing it and not just stirring around otherwise you get air bubbles in the filler
 
I use a piece of plexiglas to mix on, before the bondo hardens (right when it is starting to) you can scrape off the plex and your tools then clean them up with laquer thinner and a piece of scotch bright. Good call on folding instead of stirring, one thing I was told by a friend that ran a body shop for years though, is to try to put it all on in one coat, because as you are sanding and smoothing it out, the 2nd coat will not stick to the first coat as well as the 1st coat did to the metal, (as you sand, it fills with dust etc...) I however do not do enough bodywork that I get enough on in one coat all the time and have not had issues using multiple coats... The trick is to put more on than you need and use a cheese grater to rough-shape it while it is still soft...
 
When I do filler. I use 80g only. I also clean it before each application. I would think lighter coats would prevent cracking as to 1 thick coat. The key is CLEAN. Clean the area good then clean it again till your ran isnt dirty. As said above the smoother you can get it applied the better you can shape it. If you have something thats a bit deeper then you would like or you need more strenght you can use some short strand fiberglass filler. Bondo brand is just fine but there are better products out there.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN_pWQXElNI&feature=related"]"Mixing Body Filler" paint my own car How to - YouTube[/ame]
 
I never did like bondo. I use fiberglass for any kind of body work. Both are a pain in butt lol.

X3, X4, X5 etc on the above....Clean is the key. Get all the old paint removed down to bare metal if possible or at least ruff up the paint with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper. Prepping the metal is the key to getting bondo to stay on there. Start off with 80 grit to knock down any imperfections after putting it on. Use a plastic or very flexible putty knife. The smoother you put it on, the less you will have to sand and maybe not even need to start off with 80 grit. Just remember this stuff is for very small dents and working out any imperfect body problems. Try to work your sheetmetal more first than just trying to cover with bondo. If you put bondo on to thick and it will and can pop off later on down the road.

The key here is to work slowly with it and try not to sand it all down at once. I go at it with 80 grit to get it down, unless I put it on really smooth then I will start with 100 grit and work way up to 220 then to 400 dry/wet and finally 600/800 wet sand. You want to get that as slick as possible when finished. Feather all the edges back down to the metal when sanding it down, because you don't want it looking like bubble gum under the paint job or to see the edges of the bondo showing through the paint. Try to make your body knife larger than what you are trying fill, so when you spread the bondo it will fill the impression and feather the edges blending it back to the sheetmetal.

Block sand it or use a good electric or air sander if you have a compressor. Using just your hand and fingers with sandpaper can give or leave finger grooves or a wavy feel to it when done sanding. You can pick up a cheap block sander at Walmart. I have used a small piece of 2x4, but the block sander is made of rubber, works a lot better and is flexible with most rolls or curves in the metal.

If you have to, see if you can pick up a body tool set at any local fleamarket. The hand dollies in the kits sure have some nice different curves and angles. I bought a cheap seven piece kit for about $15. It came with two small body hammers and 5 hand held steel body shapes. It was made in china, but hey it works. I have also used those to sand with. Just wrap the sandpaper around the shape/contour I needed.

Wished you live a lot closer, would be glad to show you everything. Another trick we use is "spot putty filler". It is used to fill any little minor sanding scratches or air bubbles that may pop during the sanding process on the bondo. It comes in a tube that you can just squeeze out, put it on the bondo and its already pre-mixed. I normally just smear it on with my fingers working it into the scratches or popped air bubbles. I wet sand with 600 or 800 on the spot putty and bondo then. Liquid Steel works if you can't find any spot putty, it comes in a tube also and can be found at most hardware stores. Should be able to find the spot putty at any auto part store. Sometimes you can find it at Walmart.

Just remember take your time, use patience and keep running your hands over to feel anything not smooth. It should feel as smooth as glass when completed and you shouldn't be able to feel any edges between the metal and the bondo. If you do, wet sand some more and use the spot putty on the edges to blend the bondo to the metal. When you think you have it all done, shoot a light coat of primer over it. I use just a cheap can of .98 cent gray or red primer from walmart for that. Any imperfections will show through the primer.

My Step-Dad use to own his own body shop and taught me quite a few body tricks of the trade. He just couldn't understand or figure out how i got the fiberglass to look better than bondo lol. A plus for me on fiberglass... its waterproof for years to come an go and seems to me to bond better to metal than bondo. My El Camino is proof of that... 20 years since I have done that body work and the fiberglass still hasn't popped, flaked or chipped off anywhere.

I have some real old pictures of my El Camino, before and after on my "Found 1964 Barracuda" Post.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=70558
 
nah, the best mixing board is carboard. cheap and just throw away when done. get a huge box and cut it up into like 14x14 inch pieces, and mix on one side, then when you ready to mix more, just flip it over. when done, discard.

also, do not mix alot more than you need. if you put too much hardener in it, you will not have time to work with it. if not enough hardener, then it take forever to dry
your first few mixes maybe all over the place as to how fast it dries, but you will figure it out in no time! fyi, once you mix it, you will be able to tell by color if it is going to harden too soon or too slow. and once you notice the color that is just right, you will have fun

the darker red it is, the quicker it will harden. (or whatever color your hardener is)

Cardboard is actually the worst thing you could use for mixing filler.
 
And don't put it more than 1/8 inch thick. Work your metal don't use the bondo as a crutch.

I agree less is more. Do it in stages. After i sand down a section I use cheap rattle can. this will show where your highs and lows are.
 
When I use cardboard I use the glossy sided stuff......like from something I bought at the store with the picture on the box. Cut it up into pieces for use. I then throw it away.

I agree with Barracuda 64. I prefer to work with fiberglass. At least for me, it doesn't give you the filler boogers as much on the sand paper, which can piss me off when I gouge my work. And it's strong and easy to work with. It's also easy to sand with 80 grit for starters and working finer as you progress with the project. Here is a pic of the hood me and a friend finished a couple months ago. I vote for fiberglass. Don't get me wrong Bondo is a good product and works well when used properly. That's my two cents.

Take your time and make sure it is perfect before paint.
 

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Not Bondo, Rage, evercoat, etc; talk to local Sherwins Williams auto supply.
And get quality sandpaper from them. Light coats with 80 sanding, Soon as you get close, with a straight edge, go to icing.

Correct primer underneath, not rattle can. Self etching on bare metal, 2 stage on the rest.
 
Not Bondo, Rage, evercoat, etc; talk to local Sherwins Williams auto supply.
And get quality sandpaper from them. Light coats with 80 sanding, Soon as you get close, with a straight edge, go to icing.

Correct primer underneath, not rattle can. Self etching on bare metal, 2 stage on the rest.
HEAR,HEAR! Especially on the RAGE(filler) and the Self-Etching primer. If you dont use Self-Etching primer on bare metal you will have problems with flaking.
 
Cardboard is actually the worst thing you could use for mixing filler.

My dad has owned a body shop for 28 years and my grandpa before him had been in the business sence the 1950's and cut up parts boxes is all we ever use to mix filler
 
My dad has owned a body shop for 28 years and my grandpa before him had been in the business sence the 1950's and cut up parts boxes is all we ever use to mix filler

"We've always done it that way" doesn't make it right :mrgreen:
 
I have mixed on cardboard before I knew better. When your done you can definatly see an oily/resin stain on the cardboard.
 
I mix small amounts on plastic lids. Large amounts I use a paper plate, however I rarely use large amounts except if the 1st pass on a large area. The trick to mixing is to spread it real thin, then scoop it up with a putty knife, folding it back, and repeat. When the color is uniform, it is good. Try to mix in 30 sec or less. It is a chemical reaction, so you need intimate mixing for a reaction.

Ditto on get the metal as close as possible. Cut out and rust-thru sections, preferably to bright metal, and apply etching primer (or rust converter). To span holes, first use fiberglass cloth or Bondo Glass (small holes). Then finish with Bondo. I like the lightweight filler. Ditto on get it down fast, just a few passes with a wide drywall knife, then cheese grate file as it hardens. Don't leave any high spots since much easier to add filler than to sand down. Finally, sand 80, 150, 320, 600 grit, then use a good sealing primer.
 
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