anyone know of an alternative to MSD cap

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2nup350

2nup350

the four doors are mandatory
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I have a billet distributor in my 360 dart to go along with my fuel injection. Now I need to index the distributor rotor. Which means cutting a hole in a cap. So can I go to the store and buy a generic cap that will fit, has female terminals. and doesn't cost mega bucks like the cap that came with my distributor? If I were on a road trip and needed a quick replacement cap what would I ask for at the counter? anyone know?
 
Drill small hole under each terminal and clock cap accordingly... the cap is still good after ward, and you can smear a lil rtv into the tiny holes.
 
The "key" would be finding out "IF" the cap has an OEM application. You might look up the replacement no. online, and see if you get hits on anything else. I remember "back in the day" I had an Accel distro for Mopar RB. It used GM allen adjust points, but used (I think) a Mopar dual point cap and rotor
 
Can't it be indexed without drilling holes and using an adjustable rotor?

I'm going to do the same with FiTech and the instructions do not mention drilling holes.

Didn't they used to make clear caps way back, or did I dream that?
 
Well ..you can draw a mark inline with every terminal on the distributor housing...then fiddle the rotor, but the cap is much easier to move.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Well ..you can draw a mark inline with every terminal on the distributor housing...then fiddle the rotor, but the cap is much easier to move.
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kinda what I did, though you only need #1 cylinder.Set engine to tdc firing..Rotate base with phased rotor at zero ,line up the rotor tip with the the mark on the housing.lock the housing and phase the rotor.
 
If I remember right I thought mine looks like a Chevy cap from an old point type distributor.the rotor is sure a Chevy style. But I could be mistaken. Kim
 
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If the system he is using requires rotor phasing for timing control than it's a different rotor (purchased separately).
 
This 1 here is adjustable and what he needs. plus the cap. Kim

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oldkimmer said:
This 1 here is adjustable and what he needs. plus the cap. Kim

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I aint no expert, but have never understood why a person needs a phased rotor on a Chrysler big block. I had to clearance my raised port head a hell of a bunch, clock the (fast) electronic dist. in a cetain way, because its based on a short chevy shaft. Then adjusted the dist. drive gear , and lined everything up on number one. Doesn`t make any diff. what location no.1 is , as long as it`s right . ???????????
 
2nup350 said:
I have a billet distributor in my 360 dart to go along with my fuel injection. Now I need to index the distributor rotor. Which means cutting a hole in a cap. So can I go to the store and buy a generic cap that will fit, has female terminals. and doesn't cost mega bucks like the cap that came with my distributor? If I were on a road trip and needed a quick replacement cap what would I ask for at the counter? anyone know?
Click to expand...
OKAY SO I FIGURED IT OUT. MSD STOLE THE DESIGN OFF THE POINTS SBC CAP. SO IF YOU NEED ONE ON A TRIP, GET A SMALL BLOCK CHEVY CAP WITH POINTS, THE WINDOW WILL BE USELESS BUT WHO CARES, AND USING THIS I CAN NOW INDEX MY ROTOR WITH A $5 DOLLAR CAP.
 
famous bob said:
I aint no expert, but have never understood why a person needs a phased rotor on a Chrysler big block. I had to clearance my raised port head a hell of a bunch, clock the (fast) electronic dist. in a cetain way, because its based on a short chevy shaft. Then adjusted the dist. drive gear , and lined everything up on number one. Doesn`t make any diff. what location no.1 is , as long as it`s right . ???????????
Click to expand...
it's because using the timing controls in teh F.I. can make the rotor so far away from the contact point that the spark will want to jump to the next wire contact rather than the correct one. it just makes the spark stronger and more stable when fiddling with timing. Imagine if you could have the rotor perfectly aligned with the contact even though the initial timing of your engine was set at 12 deg.
 
famous bob said:
I aint no expert, but have never understood why a person needs a phased rotor on a Chrysler big block. I had to clearance my raised port head a hell of a bunch, clock the (fast) electronic dist. in a cetain way, because its based on a short chevy shaft. Then adjusted the dist. drive gear , and lined everything up on number one. Doesn`t make any diff. what location no.1 is , as long as it`s right . ???????????
Click to expand...

2nup350 said:
it's because using the timing controls in teh F.I. can make the rotor so far away from the contact point that the spark will want to jump to the next wire contact rather than the correct one. it just makes the spark stronger and more stable when fiddling with timing. Imagine if you could have the rotor perfectly aligned with the contact even though the initial timing of your engine was set at 12 deg.
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You must phase the rotor when running a locked distributor to ensure the rotor placement during the full sweep of advance. An unlocked distributor actually adjusts it's phasing as it advances to maintain the relation of rotor/terminal. If you do not phase it, the rotor will advance to the point where it's throwing spark to the next terminal vs the desired terminal
 
this is also the reason the FI Tech unit can only advance 20* off the base timing, any more and you will scatter
 
skidmark said:
Looks like you slotted the distributor housing for ignition mounting plate adjustments. Guessing for mounting a pertronix 3?
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I wish, but it's coming some day just for the heck of it.
Just slotted the plate screw holes so I could adjust the rotor phasing because I run quite a bit of initial advance as well as around 52 total with vacuum and didn't want the rotor wandering off.
 
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