Anyone know the brand of traction bars? Any good?

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Rat Bastid said:
How can they “dig into” a speed bump? You’d have to be on the rim.
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They usually had a bumper at the front.
The front would hit speed bumps.

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I find it amusing that those people that say don't use "slapper bars", originally developed for mono leaf Chevy IIs used in class racing, have no problem suggesting Cal Tracs that were developed for a Mustang used in class racing.

Just about all of the "traction aids" bind the leaf springs in some manner.
 
Not really concerned if they actually work or not. I've got a set of the Lakewood chrome bars to install
My theme on my 70 Dart is all speed parts from 70 up.
Many guys ran traction bars back then. (Yes I know Chinese air gap is modern)

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RustyRatRod said:
Traction bars can be made to work very well. Those are actually the better design since they have the leaf spring plate integral to the traction bars. The problem is, they are for a different application other than Mopar. They are too short for one thing. Where they are clamped to the front spring segment should extend all the way under the front spring eye bolt with a rubber snubber and the shock stud is very obviously at the wrong angle. If those two problems were addressed, they would plant the rear axle hard enough to remove some asphalt. While it's true Mopar used pinion snubbers, traction bars can work equally well and better if properly set up.
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RRR typed ^^^^ what I was going to type. So I just say ditto this ^^

I'll also add 3 of my current Mopars have traction bars on them now and in all 3 cases they helped with traction. A lot.
 
I have a pair of Lakewood slapper bars somewhere probably do better on a Nova than a dart :)
 
Speaking of Novas. Back in the day, you couldn't buy "traction bars" for any mopars. That whole pinion snubber and SS springs thingy, really sung in with the manufactures. So to get "traction bars" you would have to buy a set for a '66-'67 Nova. They bolted on with a 8 3/4 rear end and where about 1 1/2" short of the front spring mount.

But they worked very well.
 
More on them here.............
www.forabodiesonly.com

Slapper Bars

Hello... I put on a set of Lakewood slapper bars and have the snubbers within 1/2 of the leaf spring eye bolt centerline as recommended. The bars are parallel with the springs but as you can see, slightly angled down about 4 or 5 degrees (see picture). I understand the Lakewood warning in the...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
Well I had the Lakewoods on my dart for a while and ran it like that, a Mopar guy scolded me said I didn't need them and "that's what the snubber is for..." I thought they looked neat in a sort of way, another thing i do is I run the white shift ball on my Hurst shifter I have the factory brown on e in the glove box...:)
 
RustyRatRod said:
Traction bars can be made to work very well. Those are actually the better design since they have the leaf spring plate integral to the traction bars. The problem is, they are for a different application other than Mopar. They are too short for one thing. Where they are clamped to the front spring segment should extend all the way under the front spring eye bolt with a rubber snubber and the shock stud is very obviously at the wrong angle. If those two problems were addressed, they would plant the rear axle hard enough to remove some asphalt. While it's true Mopar used pinion snubbers, traction bars can work equally well and better if properly set up.
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I agree. They do work get when set up right.
 
I run chevy lakewoods on several of my cars and 1 truck.i modify em a little bit to work on a mopar and they all work great...basically like a pinion snubber but without all the damage on the bottom of my trans tunnel .
i pick them up at swap meets for 15 to 50 $ a set and that's cheaper than the factory shock plates.
a friend gave me a set like 20 years ago and i was running regular car shock plates on my 77 d 100 so i thought I'd stick em on it(it had a wheel hop problem...it wheel hopped so bad one time it threw the tail gate off)and it fixed that and now I have to get the tires wet to even do a burnout.
 
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