EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
For A bodys I believe. Anyone use something like this ?
Anyone remember these vintage traction bars ?
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I actually run a set.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Where does the bump stop hit the leaf on those?
No rubber baby buggy bumper on those. They clamp to the front of the leaf. They may help traction on a Mopar but probably not much. Mopar's have a great design of leaf spring where the forward leaves are much shorter and more stiff so they act like a traction bar.
IMO Those appear to be very unforgiving for street use. The angle and clamping indicates a solid mount with no bump stop.
And we like our pinion snuber, no mopar of mine will ever have a set on it.
Not really needed until you start pumping some horsepower through it. I know @318willrun has a pair of slapper bars on one of his cars but I believe it's a open rear end and with a little tuning, he can get good even traction.
Those remind me of the old MAS (out of Minnesota) I used to order out of the Mopar magazines. 29.00 bucks. They actually worked better than the "universal Lakewood" traction bars because they replaced the shock mounts. That allowed more action/quicker action. I ran a set on my '74 Dart. I have a set similar to those on my '74 Duster, except they have a bumper in the front. I have a set of universal traction bars on my '76 Duster also.
As far as traction bars not working on a "Mopar" is just plain hogwash. It's where if something is said enough times, it becomes true.
If put on correctly, when you take off (flooring the car) the traction bars use axle twist (yes, the axle twist on a mopar like any other car, it's why they made adjustable pinion snubbers) to apply pressure to both back tires evenly. The back of the car will now raise up at least 2 inches (maybe more) because of the downward thrust of pressure being applied to the rear tires. I always figured it's the same as adding about 200 lbs right over the axle without adding the 200 lbs. I've found them especially useful with "open" rear ends. I've done "before and after" test on many cars, so I let the results speak for me.
If put on correctly, when you take off (flooring the car) the traction bars use axle twist (yes, the axle twist on a mopar like any other car, it's why they made adjustable pinion snubbers) to apply pressure to both back tires evenly. The back of the car will now raise up at least 2 inches (maybe more) because of the downward thrust of pressure being applied to the rear tires. I always figured it's the same as adding about 200 lbs right over the axle without adding the 200 lbs. I've found them especially useful with "open" rear ends. I've done "before and after" test on many cars, so I let the results speak for me.
They are wall hangers for a conversation and a good laugh at what people would buy for the look of being fast. The only good they have would be for a tie down spot to hook a strap to. That would be either pictured above.
iScamp
Well-Known Member
"rubber baby buggy bumper". I know exactly where that came from.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I am still of the opinion that if you put slapper bars on a Mopar
Folks that know will point and laugh .
Folks that don't know will ask about your chebbie/ferd, - and you won't know why .
Folks that know will point and laugh .
Folks that don't know will ask about your chebbie/ferd, - and you won't know why .
My first automotive mentor and local drag car builder used Mopar Super Stock springs and an adjustable pinion snubber on several cars in the mid 1970s. One was a 68 Camaro small block 4 speed with 10.5 M & H Racemasters that ran 6.70s ⅛ mile at local strips and that was usually the quickest car there. Another was a 64 Chevy II small block 4 speed mini tubbed car with small slicks. Both quarter panels were buckled in behind the door. After seeing this car, I had him set up my 65 Falcon 289 4 speed street car that way. He actually moved the frame rails in on the Falcon. I had 15 inches of room under there.
EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
Your talking about the car show crowd sitting in folding chairs laughing? I was at a mopar day at the drag strip yesterday and I wasn’t laughing at mopars with cal tracs systems, Or 9” rear end, or a guy I talked to that hasn’t touched a turbo 400 trans behind his 9 sec 505ci mopar engine in 9years.
All correct.As far as traction bars not working on a "Mopar" is just plain hogwash. It's where if something is said enough times, it becomes true.
If put on correctly, when you take off (flooring the car) the traction bars use axle twist (yes, the axle twist on a mopar like any other car, it's why they made adjustable pinion snubbers) to apply pressure to both back tires evenly. The back of the car will now raise up at least 2 inches (maybe more) because of the downward thrust of pressure being applied to the rear tires. I always figured it's the same as adding about 200 lbs right over the axle without adding the 200 lbs. I've found them especially useful with "open" rear ends. I've done "before and after" test on many cars, so I let the results speak for me.
I forgot to mention, along with SS springs and pinion snubber, my 65 Falcon had an 8¾ rear end from an early 60s Mopar. It had the tapered axle ends where the brake drums were keyed and held on to the axle by a nut in the center. He said the car would jerk the pinion out of a 9" Ford rear. The 289 small block Ford had Chevy valves turned down to 1.94 intake and 1⅝ exhaust. It also had 1.6 Chevy rocker arms.
The Camaro and Chevy II drag cars, as well as my Camaro ladder bar drag car all used Chrysler 4 speed tranmissions.
Ha! That's actually funny! However, the day I worry about somebody laughing at my ride will be the day I turn in all my classic car keys. Also, before I ever put slapper bars on the Duster, I was still asked "what year is the Nova?"
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Ha! That's actually funny! However, the day I worry about somebody laughing at my ride will be the day I turn in all my classic car keys. Also, before I ever put slapper bars on the Duster, I was still asked "what year is the Nova?"
I'm honestly glad you got them to work for you !
I always/still caught chit cuz I used individual air shocks at less than 20 lbs to tune my launch, - long before coil-overs were common or avail to use in certain classes, certainly before Calvert !
Everyone seems to think if you had air-shocks, - it mandatory that you ran at a million pounds, with 2 hemi blocks in the trunk at speed over speed-bumps, rofl . .
Cheers
Right at the bushing where it should.
69b7bbgts
Well-Known Member
Mopar S/S springs need neither slapper bars or a pinion snubber, you adjust pinion angle. If you're drag racing 5-7 degrees, some use more street less. I race a 12 and 10 second cars with nothing but springs. Pinion angle is the difference between the pinion centerline and driveshaft centerline, not angle to the ground.
MadScientistMat
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If you think about it, the pinion snubber is just a single center-mount slapper bar. Chrysler leaf springs have significantly less axle twist than the symmetric leaf springs used on Brand X cars, but it's not zero either.As far as traction bars not working on a "Mopar" is just plain hogwash. It's where if something is said enough times, it becomes true.
If put on correctly, when you take off (flooring the car) the traction bars use axle twist (yes, the axle twist on a mopar like any other car, it's why they made adjustable pinion snubbers) to apply pressure to both back tires evenly. The back of the car will now raise up at least 2 inches (maybe more) because of the downward thrust of pressure being applied to the rear tires. I always figured it's the same as adding about 200 lbs right over the axle without adding the 200 lbs. I've found them especially useful with "open" rear ends. I've done "before and after" test on many cars, so I let the results speak for me.
I've thought about making a set of slapper bars lined up specifically to work with A-body leaf springs and putting little stickers on it reading "Ha ha, I put traction bars on a Mopar!" on them.
Now, linkage-type traction bars with both the front and rear mounted in a bushing are a bad idea on Mopars. These will work if the front half of your leaf spring is way too flexible, but they bind up when used with Mopar spring designs.
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