anyone use a D.U.I. tri power ignition?

[68 A]

I have one of their new tri power igntions too put on my rebuilt 318. it will be replacing a mopar performance electronic ignition. The wiring instructions only tell how to hook the coil to the control modul that is mounted on the distributor. They also tell you to hook to the positive and negative side of the coil, but the coil is labeled "Batt" and "Alt". so i'm not sure which side is positive and which side is negative.

I'm also not sure about wiring the rest of it. I assume that a wire from the alternator feeds the coil on one side, but now sure about the other. It says not to use a ballast resistor, so i need to eliminate that. Do i completely remove that from the car? or is there another system that wires into that? there are a few wires that attatch to it.

I'll problably think of more questions,

Thanks,

Steve

 

[cuda66273]

Quote "replacing a mopar performance electronic ignition"

I guess I only have to ask "Why?"

 

[68 A]

i'm replacing it cause i had prolems with it skipping before my engine rebuild. new cap, rotor and wires and it was still skipping pretty bad. Figured that i would change the ignition system while rebuilding everything else. I went to D.U.I cause i wanted to clean the engine compartment/wiring up a bit. Originally got thier system that is like a cheby HEI, but it didnt fit so i returned it for the tri power system

thanks,

Steve

 

[dgc333]

The same wire that fed your old coil will feed the new one (+). If the instructions say no ballast is needed then just put a jumper between the two ballast resistor connectors. One of the connections on the HEI module will go to the other side of the coil (-) and since you are eliminating the ballast just run a jumper from the (+) side of the coil to the other HEI connection. Yu don't want the coil connected to the alternator or yuo won't be able to shut the car off.

Why the coil is marked BAT and ALT makes no sense. You will need to call them to get that squared away.

 

[68 A]

ok, that seems to be pretty simple. I get confused looking at wiring diagrams, and didn't want to start this without knowing what to do. guess and check with electrical seems like a good way to get frustrated.

so i am also understanding now that the ballast resistor is also used for other systems in the car, and will remain in the car since i need to put a jumper wire in.

Thanks alot!


STeve

 

[dgc333]

Not exactly! If the instructions say you don't need it you can leave there un connected or take it, your choice. The reason for the jumper wire is if you look at the two connectors that are on the ballast they have multiple wires attached to them. One one side there should be two blues and the other side a blue and brown. The ignition switch in the run position has switches battery voltage to the side with the two blue wires, in a mopar ignition that voltage would go through the ballast and would provide a lower voltage at the + side of the coil for when the engine is running. When the key is in the start position battery voltage is switced to the other side (brown wire) and provides full battery voltage to the + of the coil.

Since the DUI coil does not need a reduced voltage during run to keep it from over heating you do not need the ballast resistor to protect it. But if you only hook up to one side you will have power either in the start or run positions which will result in the car either starting and dieing as as soon as you let go of the key or not starting because there is no power in the start position. Hence disconnect the two wires from the ballast, take a piece of wire crimp on some blade terminals and plug and end into each connector.

 

[68 A]

gotcha! that sounds easy enough to do. Couple nights ago after i read your post i went back and looked and traced wires all through the ignition system to understand what was going where and try to figure out where power was going. I didnt understand that the ballast resistor limited power just when it was running, i thought it limited power all of the time. thanks for the explanation and hopefully soon i will have it wired and running!!

Thanks,

Steve

 

[Aaron]

The skipping on the old mopar electronic ignition could be due to the electronic voltage regulator or other wiring gremlins that cause voltage drops and spikes.