Anyone use Lexan?

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VonCramp

VonCramp

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I am looking for red or at least clear lexan for my 'Cuda. I posted a thread in body/trim, but no response. I am wanting to do my doors, and passenger 1/4 glass if possible. I would be willing to settle for plexi if necessary. Thanks for any guidance.
 
Maybe you'd rather try this.

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/GASSER-WINDOW-TINT-RED-RAT-ROD-STRAIGHT-AXLE-55-56-57-Chevy-cal-custom-Bel-Air-/360632890811?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f76535bb&vxp=mtr"]Gasser Window Tint Red Rat Rod Straight Axle 55 56 57 Chevy Cal Custom Bel Air | eBay[/ame]

View attachment $(KGrHqZ,!lgFHPe7(E6vBR0HCNHI3Q~~60_57.jpg
 
I run Lexan on my Demon, but it's strictly a racecar. As mentioned above, it scratches easily so be careful what you clean it with. I suggest a soft cotton cloth (i.e. clean cloth baby diaper) with a vinegar and water solution.
 
I have not had personal experience with the product, but I've been doing research for a few weeks now on a Lexan conversion and it seems like the hot tip is Makrolon, get it with Maargard. Many say it's the clearest and most durable version, and cheaper than the Lexan brand. It's what I'm going to look into first when I'm ready.
 
Got any compound bends in your rear glass? Ive seen that red stuff on a chopped 53 Mercury roach, looked pretty hip with its hot rod black paint, wide whites and fiesta hub caps, chick driving wasnt bad either ' Bettie Page in red....hatchaaa!
 
When using Lexan be carfull on using LocTight on any fasteners. Will cause the Lexan to become brittle.
 
lemon pledge works well for a cleaner... I used to have a golf car business and an old guy showed me that trick... done that for years on all my plex and lexan stuff.
 
I'm pretty sure you can't run anything darker than factory tint on any windows at the races. At least if the track enforces the rules.

As discussed, scratching is a problem with lexan, or whatever brand. But there are plastic polishes that help reduce them and add protection. I use to have an aerosol can, but forgot the brand. If you write on them with shoe polish, I found isoprophyl rubbing alcohol literally melts the stuff off with minimal rubbing. Thick areas may take a few tries. But the easy wipe stuff made for dial-ins would likely work best, but more expensive.

Doesn't Cuda door glass have a slight curve, like a Challenger? Not sure about a-bodies. Bracing may be necessary for the curve as will as keeping them from pulling sway at speed. I had 1/4" on my side windows when I had a Challenger. It may be too much of an inconvenience on a street only car from a practical, maintenance and security standpoint. Can't roll 'em down on hot days and they will likely scratch.!
 
I didn't have good luck, with the higher dollar margaurd (more expensive lexan that is suppose to be higher scratch resistant) it scratched bad if not worse then regular lexan.
I use only Polycarbonate (Lexan)
Here is a trick, you can polish out scratches, and even lacquer thinner marks with a headlight polish kit. I used the Mothers brand kit sold at Walmart.
I accidentally touched my new lexan glass with lacquer thinner on my fingers. The kit comes with wet sand paper,polish, and polishing wheel. I used each step like instructions say, everything polished out perfect.
Also, don't use plastic paint, use real paint. I thought it would be better, and it blistered right off the back once I went into the sun.
Here is where I got my lexan cheap:

http://www.onlinemetalsupply.com/

You can also get thin diamond plate here cheap.
 
Locomotion said:
I'm pretty sure you can't run anything darker than factory tint on any windows at the races. At least if the track enforces the rules.

As discussed, scratching is a problem with lexan, or whatever brand. But there are plastic polishes that help reduce them and add protection. I use to have an aerosol can, but forgot the brand. If you write on them with shoe polish, I found isoprophyl rubbing alcohol literally melts the stuff off with minimal rubbing. Thick areas may take a few tries. But the easy wipe stuff made for dial-ins would likely work best, but more expensive.

Doesn't Cuda door glass have a slight curve, like a Challenger? Not sure about a-bodies. Bracing may be necessary for the curve as will as keeping them from pulling sway at speed. I had 1/4" on my side windows when I had a Challenger. It may be too much of an inconvenience on a street only car from a practical, maintenance and security standpoint. Can't roll 'em down on hot days and they will likely scratch.!
Click to expand...

Yup, there are curves on A body Dusters for sure. Bracing is necessay.
 

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dusterdragracer said:
I didn't have good luck, with the higher dollar margaurd (more expensive lexan that is suppose to be higher scratch resistant) it scratched bad if not worse then regular lexan.
I use only Polycarbonate (Lexan)
Here is a trick, you can polish out scratches, and even lacquer thinner marks with a headlight polish kit. I used the Mothers brand kit sold at Walmart.
I accidentally touched my new lexan glass with lacquer thinner on my fingers. The kit comes with wet sand paper,polish, and polishing wheel. I used each step like instructions say, everything polished out perfect.
Also, don't use plastic paint, use real paint. I thought it would be better, and it blistered right off the back once I went into the sun.
Here is where I got my lexan cheap:

http://www.onlinemetalsupply.com/

You can also get thin diamond plate here cheap.
Click to expand...

Weird. Everyone and everyplace I can find says to absolutely without any question whatsoever use the Marguard (or equivalent).

I don't even see any 1/4" (or close) Lexan/polycarbonate at that site. They have very thin or 1.25" machine grade...???
 
I use to get my lexan at local plastic sign material shops. Google or check the phone book yellow pages under "plastic" and "signs". Shop around if there are options.
 
72Dodge said:
Weird. Everyone and everyplace I can find says to absolutely without any question whatsoever use the Marguard (or equivalent).

I don't even see any 1/4" (or close) Lexan/polycarbonate at that site. They have very thin or 1.25" machine grade...???
Click to expand...


My Bad, here is the correct sight:


http://www.interstateplastics.com/plastic-sheets.php?vid=201311201525-8p

It was super cheap.

I used the high dollar mar-resistant stuff (said margaurd on the paper back), pre cut from Shake down in Texas.First time out, I wrote with my Jegs marker, it scratched the number right into the glass. it also scratched really bad all the time.I was real disappointed.Along with using rustoleum plastic paint, being very careful to sand first, it peeled and bubbled between the rubber spacer and the lexan.
 

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OK, wow, that's WAY more expensive than any other place I've found! LOL 36x60 .236" sheet for $174? EDIT: I see, 48 x 96 optimal cut size for $159.51. Honestly, that's still more expensive than anyplace else I've found, even for a sheet with Marguard, which is always more. Interesting.
 
72Dodge said:
OK, wow, that's WAY more expensive than any other place I've found! LOL 36x60 .236" sheet for $174? EDIT: I see, 48 x 96 optimal cut size for $159.51. Honestly, that's still more expensive than anyplace else I've found, even for a sheet with Marguard, which is always more. Interesting.
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Interesting, it was the cheapest I could find it anywhere delivered, and that include local.I looked pretty hard and found them on Ebay.
I swear, I paid about $115.00 delivered for 2 sheets 1/8th 24"x48". I just did the side windows, and it only took 1 sheet. I still have the other one.
try Ebay, and I bet the price is so much more for those sizes because of shipping. I bought mine last fall.
 
Ah, I didn't look at 1/8", just 1/4" for windshield and only in those sizes. I didn't realize that price was shipped if that's the case.
 
72Dodge said:
Ah, I didn't look at 1/8", just 1/4" for windshield and only in those sizes. I didn't realize that price was shipped if that's the case.
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Check this out:

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHEFFIELD-POLY-GLAZ-1-4-x-28-x-49-CLEAR-POLYCARBONATE-LEXAN-SHEETS-/111394278566?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ef9dcca6"]Sheffield Poly Glaz 1 4" x 28" x 49" Clear Polycarbonate Lexan Sheets | eBay[/ame]
 
there is a bend to the factory glass. However, I was told to try a heat gun and clamp the lexan to the factory glass and let cure. I don't want heavy glass with regulators in my doors. I believe the lexan can be made to pull up and down in the doors.
 
VonCramp said:
there is a bend to the factory glass. However, I was told to try a heat gun and clamp the lexan to the factory glass and let cure. I don't want heavy glass with regulators in my doors. I believe the lexan can be made to pull up and down in the doors.
Click to expand...

I forgot that I didn't have 1/4" for the sides. (It's been a while.) That was the windshield. Sides were probably 1/8" and braced. Even at 1/4" for the sides, it may be somewhat "floppy" and "chatter" at speed. I'm sure they will scratch quickly even with good fuzzy guides. You must be thinking along the lines of pull straps like I believe were used on the '68 SS Hemi cars.
 
Don't use "plexiglass" It scratches & yellows much worse than Lexan(polycarbonate). Plexiglass is also not permitted by NHRA rules. Polycarbonate is allowed.
Downside to Lexan/pc is it fogs up really bad on humid nights/ afternoons.
 
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