Anyone using the MRL solid roller lifters?

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mshred

The Green Manalishi
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Big block or small block? What kind of spring pressures?

I am looking at a set of the Pro sports for my sb since they are supposed to be a direct drop in (i.e. no grinding on the block for clearance) and feature pressure fed oiling to the rollers and needles.

Just wondering if anyone is using them in either a race or street application (mine is both street/strip) and how well they are holding up. They seem like a quality piece, but I'd like to see some reviews on them before I pull the trigger
 
haven't used them as you (Matt) know what I got, but in my block I don't know how any roller lifter would clear. What a mess!!
 
Never used them.. But if mike say they will work you can trust him on that.
I have many dealing with mike an he is a straight up good guy to deal with and that's a fact. Call him and talk to him he will blow you away with what is in his head..
 
haven't used them as you (Matt) know what I got, but in my block I don't know how any roller lifter would clear. What a mess!!

Dylan, yours need lots of grinding to fit?
 
Dylan, yours need lots of grinding to fit?

I bought a set of those lifters for my 505, haven`t fired it up yet, but am well pleased w/ the quality "looks" and fit of the pro sports-------------bob
 
I bought a set of those lifters for my 505, haven`t fired it up yet, but am well pleased w/ the quality "looks" and fit of the pro sports-------------bob

Did yours need any grinding at all in any place?

This is a big issue for me because I have the motor assembled and in the car, and really don't have the option to start grinding in the valley and making a serious mess in there. This needs to be a total drop in affair for me
 
Did yours need any grinding at all in any place?

This is a big issue for me because I have the motor assembled and in the car, and really don't have the option to start grinding in the valley and making a serious mess in there. This needs to be a total drop in affair for me

no grinding on the 440 block------------bob:coffee2:
 
I ran these in our 4" stroke W5 340 block, no grinding required. Got them from Brian at IMM.

 
I have IMM's solid roller lifter versions in mine, they drop in with no grinding on my LA block. Pressurized oil on the roller same as MRL. I am sure they are the same as Mikes. Both are made by comp. I have a small solid roller cam 242@50 634 lift at the valve. Spring pressures are if I recall 200lbs closed & 510lbs open nothing too radical. So far they work well. I revvvv it regularly to 7000+ RPM it's a 410 stroker with a 180 hit of juice on it. The valve train does not miss a beat.
 
Ordered the Pro Plus for SB. Should be here today or tomorrow so I'm eager to see the quality of them. Spring pressures will be 270 lb seat and 600 lb open.
 
My lifters are NOT made by Comp, they are made by a private manufacturing facility to my specs. The COMP 8043 lifters cause issues on blocks with deep chamfers to the top of the lifter bores as the oil band and pushrod oil hole are uncovered and full lift, we fixed that for 95% of all production blocks out there. Plus we use a higher quality axle/bearing material than the Big guys making lifters today.

Ours drop in without grinding, but much like the 8043's the head have to be off the block to get them in.

Pro Sports are $480 BBM and SBM and I use them upto 650# spring pressure
Pro Plus are $580 BBM and $615 SBM for 650# and up
 

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I was told I couldn't run those in my big block with bushed lifter bores and no holes in the bores

Its not that you can not, but you shouldnt. Pressurized oil to the roller bearing is a GOOD thing and it only needs a small oil supply hole in the bushing to get enough oil to the roller, .060" or so. Al lot of roller lifter failures have been do to the needles failing under extreme pressure and not enough oil to keep them clean, lubed and cool. Relying on only oil splash and run down from the top end, you take your chances.
 
[/B said:
My lifters are NOT made by Comp, they are made by a private manufacturing facility to my specs. The COMP 8043 lifters cause issues on blocks with deep chamfers to the top of the lifter bores as the oil band and pushrod oil hole are uncovered and full lift, we fixed that for 95% of all production blocks out there. Plus we use a higher quality axle/bearing material than the Big guys making lifters today.

Ours drop in without grinding, but much like the 8043's the head have to be off the block to get them in.

Pro Sports are $480 BBM and SBM and I use them upto 650# spring pressure
Pro Plus are $580 BBM and $615 SBM for 650# and up


Brian had his made to his specs. I may have talked out of line on who makes them. All I know is mine were shipped to me in a Comp Box. I don't believe they are the 8043's that you are referring to.

I am sure these will work on a 48* R3 Block too correct? Since the lifter bore is much farther away from the wall?
 
I am sure these will work on a 48* R3 Block too correct? Since the lifter bore is much farther away from the wall?

My LA roller lifters are wrapped up and in a box "because" the W8 heads I'm running require an offset lifter, so in my case.."no", the lifter wouldn't work in a 48* R3 block. Brian did have the lifters built by his specs. Ours pushrod oiled as we ran the Erson rockers on our W5's.
 
My LA roller lifters are wrapped up and in a box "because" the W8 heads I'm running require an offset lifter, so in my case.."no", the lifter wouldn't work in a 48* R3 block. Brian did have the lifters built by his specs. Ours pushrod oiled as we ran the Erson rockers on our W5's.

Yes I called Brian today. I too am in the process of an R3, W8 or W9 Headed build. I did find an article online that talked about the offset lifters. However Brian was talking about different oiling coming off the lifters to feed the pushrods. I am learning as I go like usual.


http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0310_340_engine_600_hp/viewall.html

It's All in the Angle
Chrysler developed the R3 block because, traditionally, their blocks have 59-degree lifter angles, making it difficult for a high-rpm valvetrain to survive. The R3 block has the lifters at a 48-degree angle, giving a better pushrod angle. To begin with, our block (PN P4876672AB) was completely blueprinted. JMS drilled the oil galleys in the lifter holes because there were none there. Chrysler sells a jig to properly handle this task, but we're not sure why they don't drill them at the factory.
JMS also drilled oil drain holes at the top of the engine block, in the valley area, because without them, the oil would have to travel over a 1/2-inch-tall wall to reach the existing holes before it could drain back to the oil pan. This could effectively leave a quart of oil suspended up there at all times.
Because Chrysler moved the intake ports on the W-9 head to get the pushrod alignment straight, offset lifters needed to be used. JMS used a combination of centered, left, and right offset lifters. Neither Chrysler nor Comp Cams could clearly state what lifters were needed for this combination, but when it did come time for lifters, Comp was the only company that had offset lifters in a Mopar diameter. Each lifter had to be checked individually for geometry to see what offset was needed. Once the correct lifter offset was established, Comp Cams had to figure out what tie-bars were needed to connect the lifters. "Chrysler didn't know what lifters to use," said Mike. "They were on the phone with us asking what we came up with. That is why this motor is so cool. It's so new that even Chrysler is interested in what it took to put it together." The combination of lifters consisted of eight Comp Cams centered lifters (892C-1), four of the left offset lifters (892L-1), and four of the right offset lifters (892R-1). Eight Comp Cams link bars (CC814) hold the lifters together.


Read more: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/..._340_engine_600_hp/viewall.html#ixzz2n0oGeXfF
 
Spoke with Mike today, I will be ordering up a set of lifters from him for sure...Just have to finalize cam and spring choice so I know for sure which lifters would best suit my needs.
 
Didn't get to see them before they were installed by my builder. I'll say for sure he wouldn't install them if he didn't like them.
 
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