anyone wanna guess what my 1/8 mile will be

-
805moparkid said:
well your not supposed to mix biasply (slicks) with radial tires are it can get squirly but in the drags is not usually an issue, i run 14.25 with 195-65-14 radial fronts with Hoosier 28x9-15 slick rears with no issues.

you still havn't told us the condition of the idler and pitman...
Click to expand...

Thats the same size radials on the front that I run. The slicks are 26x8.5x14. I just dont understand why it gets squirley with them
 
68cuda78 said:
Thats the same size radials on the front that I run. The slicks are 26x8.5x14. I just dont understand why it gets squirley with them
Click to expand...

who knows... that why i keep asking about the pitman and idler arm...:cheers:
 
It's the soft sidewalls that feel a little squirmy. Feeling some movement is somewhat normal as far as i'm concerned. It's very hard to say whether it's excessive or not since we're not in the car. Might just be a sensation you're not used too, but will get the feel of it over time. My concern when I brought it up earlier in the thread, was more about the transition from power to shutdown. As far as the pressure, even with the 7" rims, I doubt you should have to go much lower then 15 lbs, especially at your power level. As long as the tires are in good shape as you say, I think the suspension/weight transfer area is where i'd look for improvement first.
 
OldmanRick said:
It's the soft sidewalls that feel a little squirmy. Feeling some movement is somewhat normal as far as i'm concerned. It's very hard to say whether it's excessive or not since we're not in the car. Might just be a sensation you're not used too, but will get the feel of it over time. My concern when I brought it up earlier in the thread, was more about the transition from power to shutdown. As far as the pressure, even with the 7" rims, I doubt you should have to go much lower then 15 lbs, especially at your power level. As long as the tires are in good shape as you say, I think the suspension/weight transfer area is where i'd look for improvement first.
Click to expand...

I thinks its very excessive because I had to let off the throttle it was all over the place.
 
With the coils/ladders, and since you have a Panhard bar or Watts link to keep the housing centered, my first thought would be to look there. Problem I see with that is, it doesn't act up with the street tires? If you could post some pics of the setup, maybe we could see a possible flaw. Not trying to be a bad guy, but at your power level and the suspension you have (ladders & coilovers), you should not have these issues. Meaning hook and being extremely loose.

I should add that 805 has a good point on the bias/radial deal...........My opinion is, that's a issue on uneven surfaces and in the rain. On a smooth track, it should be almost undetectable.
 
Bias rears ( slicks ) and radial fronts will give it a tendency to wander.
I've never noticed it to be too bad though on our last ride.
leafs and slappers with the snubber tight to the spring , 1.7 60's and 7 teen 1/8ths. I had all new front end stuff , with six cylinder coil springs under a BBF , travel limiters. 12 p.s.i. typically in a 9" slick 15 x 165 - 65 radial fronts.
Something is wrong if the car is getting that squirrelly on you.
 
get someone with a video car next to the car and film it
 
Old slicks and low tire pressure will definitely make the car wander. Do yourself a favor and get some NEW drag radials or borrow some and see what a difference it makes. Drag tires just don't age well.
 
sledger46 said:
Old slicks and low tire pressure will definitely make the car wander. Do yourself a favor and get some NEW drag radials or borrow some and see what a difference it makes. Drag tires just don't age well.
Click to expand...

drag radials are over rated... he has street tires so just get good slicks... i like tall as it gives you more print...

28x9 hoosiers is what i run
 
805moparkid said:
drag radials are over rated...
Click to expand...


If you enjoy swapping tires at the track, yeah they are over rated ;-)

If you are lazy like me and would rather drive to the track on your tires, drop the pressure at the track, and run awesome 60fts, air back up the tires, and drive home then darg radials are not over rated.

1.56 60 ft on a MT ET Street radial 235R-15 (302 RWHP)
1.49 60 ft on a MT ET Street radial 255R-15 (359 RWHP)

If you are after the old school look then bias ply slicks look cool. Either way you go, I still think you need to spring for new racing rubber.
 
I think the slicks are probably the issue because if I can put some 205/60/15 radials on the back and kick it down at say 30mph and it goes straight and not get loose then the slicks have got to be the issue. Im sure they have been sitting for at least a few years or more. I just ordered some MT ET Streets that are 255/60/15 so we will see when I put them on. I will be able to tell on the street for sure. If they dont get loose on the street Im sure they wont at the track. These actually have a wider tread width then my slicks. I had a set of these on a ls1 camaro a few years ago that ran 8.0 in the 1/8 with 1.75 60 ft times and they worked great..I know I had a bowtie
 
68cuda78 said:
I will gladly do so. Im getting them tomorrow from summit and Im going to a Friday night fun night this Friday to see how they work.
Click to expand...

have them balanced at 15psi and also be aware some slicks are directional
 
My 65 runs 6:70's and I run 16lbs of air in the 29.5X10.5w M/t slicks. Coil over and ladder bar car.. I think it is a combo of the shocks are not right for the car and way to low of air pressure. Spring rate will have an effect also..
 
boosted said:
My 65 runs 6:70's and I run 16lbs of air in the 29.5X10.5w M/t slicks. Coil over and ladder bar car.. I think it is a combo of the shocks are not right for the car and way to low of air pressure. Spring rate will have an effect also..
Click to expand...


So do think the shocks on the front need to be changed or the rear or both
 
68cuda78 said:
I have ladder bars with coil overs on the rear so will those work and by work I mean mount up
Click to expand...

oh thats right... stupid coils...

the front will work... on your current rear shocks are they adjustable or whats the ratio?

can you take a pic of your rear setup so we can see what you have...
 
805moparkid said:
oh thats right... stupid coils...

the front will work... on your current rear shocks are they adjustable or whats the ratio?

can you take a pic of your rear setup so we can see what you have...
Click to expand...

I will take a pic tomorrow. I dont believe the shocks are adjustable but you can move them up and down as far as raising and lowering the suspension. I think that it would put more or less pressure on the springs
 
68cuda78 said:
I will take a pic tomorrow. I dont believe the shocks are adjustable but you can move them up and down as far as raising and lowering the suspension. I think that it would put more or less pressure on the springs
Click to expand...

your backwards, you raise or lower the car with the springs and adjustment with the "nut". your looking for a valving adjustment that will be a little knob or allen/flat head adjuster...

if the shocks have no adjustment or are valve wrong you will need new correct shocks... thus the reason i dont like coil setups...
 
Well the spring rate will have an effect on the launch also. I think most shocks are adjustable. I would go down a click or two on the shocks. Do you have any idea of the spring rate on the car? On the front you can just use summit 90/10 shocks. I would set them on 90/10... Try running the car with more air pressure than 12lbs..

I forgot to ask what hole the front of the ladder bar is in? Close to the body will make it hit harder at the line and the lower it is will soften it up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top