applying filler

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72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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Ok I have some USC short strand fiber glass filler, and some light weight body filler Evercoat.


Looking for tips on applying it?

Also what is shrinkage and what do I need to watch out for?

Im not patching holes but smoothing a weld.
 
You can start by mixing your filler, after the panel is clean and blown off. Do no mix the filler on cardboard. The cardboard actually absorbs the hardener and will reduce the amount mixed into your filler. The usual is a one inch strip of hardener to each golf ball size of body filler. Mix well, if you are using your applicator to mix, make sure you wipe it off before applying the filler. Do NOT whip, the filler while mixing. Press it into your filler board while mixing. If you whip it, you add air bubbles to the filler that will sand off and become pin holes. After mixed, make your first pass of filler. This first pass is called a "tight" coat. You put a very thin, even see through coat of filler on, pressing it down hard into all the sand scratches and bumps. Once your tight coat is on, then apply a second heavy coat... this is all done at once with the first mix. Fill the area beyond any damage or weld areas. Once the top of the filler becomes tacky you can lightly hand sand it to help sand faster... then let it dry and finish blocking. I suggest you use 36 grit on the fiber filler. P.S. there is no point to blocking your fiber filler... it is just there for heavy filling... you can grind it down with a sander to help speed up the process. Always block your body filler too. Using a block that is bigger than the damage area will help get it straight... as well as using a coarse grit paper. The faster you cut the filler off the straighter it will be.
 
You mix the filler and do a tight coat, and a fill coat all at once. Then let it dry enough to sand it. Then repeat if needed.
 
Colin, this is something you should write up a how to on.
 
First, it doesn't "dry", it is a chemical reaction which is why you need the correct ratio of filler & hardener and to mix them intimately (why they are colored).

The biggest tip I wish I'd known years ago is to get a "cheese grater" type wood plane (Ace or Home Depot) and level it off as soon as it starts to harden. It will shave off easy. If you wait until it is hard, you will spend the rest of your life sanding. Don't mix too much. The can says "15 min" but I get 5 min even on a cold day, just enough time to mix and make 3 or 4 passes. Don't worry about the first coats being smooth. As suggested, use very coarse sand paper or it will gum up. After the final coats and fully cured, you can sand finer and it should come off like powder. If still gummy, you didn't use enough hardener.

If covering large areas, use a wide putty knife (12") or even a steel strip. Some people spray a thin coat of gloss black paint to check the reflection, then later sand that off. If not, it may look great until painted and you see wavy parking lot lines in the clear coat.
 
Don't use "Bondo". Go to Sherwin Williams, etc, and get Evercoat. Buy a body file (harbor freight), but buy 3m sand paper from Sherwin Williams, etc.

There is a big difference in labor time, with cheap vs good sandpaper.
 
This is something I have wanted to do for a long time actually. Once I start the body on the Dart I will start a good write up.

I look forward to it because from talkin to you, I know you know your stuff.
 
Im just about there. I went back tonight and did some more prep on the area. Feathered it out farther to allow for good fill. I think Im going to do my rear pillars where the quarter meets the roof. Figure do all or most the filler work at once.
 
I never claimed to be a painter and won't start now, but I do use a ton of sandpaper during the finishing stage of my powder work. Pivco.net has a great selection of body work tools / applicators / sand papers at great prices. Good customer service and fast shipping too. All my wet-n-dry and all of Billy's air file paper come from them and we've always been happy with the quality.
 
Im just about there. I went back tonight and did some more prep on the area. Feathered it out farther to allow for good fill. I think Im going to do my rear pillars where the quarter meets the roof. Figure do all or most the filler work at once.

COOL. You've made a ton of progress on your car. Doin some fine work, too. Aren't glad you didn't sell it now?
 
This is something I have wanted to do for a long time actually. Once I start the body on the Dart I will start a good write up.


Would it be possible to shoot some video and have a running commentary as you work?

I can follow detailed instructions but watching someone helps me to learn techniques and observe the little things that might not be remembered on the write up.

I have block sanded a car in preparation for paint and after paint but I have never worked with filler.

Thanks,

Art
 
Ok give the Fiberglass filler is for strenght and Im going back over it with lightweight body filler. Am I right in thinking that the first layer of fiberglass doesnt have to be completly smoothed out? THen follow with the body filler which needs to be SMOOTH. Whats the best way to initally smooth out body filler? Im guessing some agressive sanding/grinding at first then the closer I get I want to switch to block sanding?
 
Ok after dressing both wounds the section from the new quarter skin and the top C pillar This is after 1 what I think is thin coat of Fiberglass filler. Mixed as I had seen in videos and directions on back of can. Then I took out my electric orbit sander with some 100 grit... Got it fairly smoothed down.


So next? Should I go back over with another coat of Fiberglass or move on to regular body filler? It didnt turn out all too bad and I believe I filled the low spots good and Feel like a skim coat of body filler will smooth it all out.

A few photos what do yall think?
 

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Looking good Josh.As I mentioned,the fiberglass is used as a vapor barrier,your good to go with filler now.Do you have a body file for removing access filler?They save you alot of time,instead of sanding all the access off.Keep at it!:thumrigh:
 
Josh you should have sandblasted the rust it's going to come back in a short time!!!!
 
The quarter was new so no rust there. The split on the C pillar I cleaned up good ground everything down. There really wasn't rust just old filler
 
When doing the fiber filler work it does not have to be straight... just get it close, it's just for major filling. Also, the area's that I have circled look to be low and darker in color. I am guessing that they are darker because they have not been sanded. No problem, just take a bit of sandpaper on your finger and scuff them up good before adding more filler. You need the sand scratch for mechanical adhesion of the next coat of filler. Just make sure that the fiber filler is low enough that it doesn't peek through when you start sanding the final filler.
 

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Would it be possible to shoot some video and have a running commentary as you work?

I can follow detailed instructions but watching someone helps me to learn techniques and observe the little things that might not be remembered on the write up.

I have block sanded a car in preparation for paint and after paint but I have never worked with filler.

Thanks,

Art


I could do this very easy too. I have a nice flip camera I got for Christmas last year. Video would be a lot easier to describe to someone that photo's and typing. And it would give me a chance to show off my mullet wig. :cheers:
 
Ok after dressing both wounds the section from the new quarter skin and the top C pillar This is after 1 what I think is thin coat of Fiberglass filler. Mixed as I had seen in videos and directions on back of can. Then I took out my electric orbit sander with some 100 grit... Got it fairly smoothed down.


So next? Should I go back over with another coat of Fiberglass or move on to regular body filler? It didnt turn out all too bad and I believe I filled the low spots good and Feel like a skim coat of body filler will smooth it all out.

A few photos what do yall think?


Also, If you are able to, do your filler work with 36 grit, it will pay off in the end. Then finish with 80 grit and lastly 180.
 
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