I just keep looking at the original question from the OP and read the slow degradation into the abyss of opinions that really have nothing to do with it .
I just keep looking at the original question from the OP and read the slow degradation into the abyss of opinions that really have nothing to do with it .
Yeah ok.So you would rather see one or two opinions then the post just dry up and go away. Most of the guys that think this way never contribute anything to the site. This would be one boring website.
I think it is easier to find one now then 50 years ago. I bought a 72' Dodge Van, new and around 74', I began looking for one for it and it took until 79' to find one, but I had to buy the whole car (69' Dart swinger). The cars are now disappearing, but the motors are kept. I have had several since and I'm keeping one now, to install in a pick-up truck, Prowler or anything else unusual. If you never had one, you are missing out on a lot of fun.rare, not really... can always find them for sale.. valuable.. for sure and will only go up in value. 340s have a mystical reputation which will never go away and guys will pay stupid money for one instead of a 360 for 1/8th the price. If you don't need to sell it, oil it up good and put it under a bench for 10 years and it will double in value... no joke. i don't get it myself though.
Nah, they are a dime a dozen. Tell me where to send that dime and I will take it off your hands.... lol
Keep it without a doubt.How rare are 340’s getting now days? Pulled this solid runner cast crank one out with 727. Not sure to keep it stored or sell.
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Yeah well rpm ain't everything to a streeter. example;
7500 in first gear(TF) with 3.23s comes to 68mph. Did I say still in First gear?
With a power-peak near 7000, what cam do you run, and how's that gonna run in Drive at 30 mph?
No thanks.
I'll take the 408, or 388 (4.04 x 3.79), or even an HO367, with a power-peak around 5400 give or take.
But I gotta say this;
a super-Hi-Compression 340, with a 318 cam, makes a chitload of Bottom-End torque, which is just right for a streeter with 3.23s, or even, a lil less.
I used to get so much flack for having a 360-based small-block. Since it's a 4.04 x 3.58, I started calling it a stroked 340, and that was the end of the criticisms.
Lol. A 408 revs to 7000 plus nicely
Sounds like we got some in here who think weight of reciprocating assemblies have no impact on how fast an engine can rev calling other ppl morons? You know like gee pistons go up, reverse direction, go down, reverse direction, go back up, repeat. So gee how can weight of pistons and rods impact ability for engine to rev? Thats a hard one to figure out, real tricky one, right?
Its fairly common knowledge swap in lighter pistons into a 340 its gonna rev faster. No, not aware, never heard of that, don't believe it? Don't think HEAVY *** pistons have a negative impact on engine performance, no? Big *** HEAVY pistons reversing directions doesn't sap some power?? No, not true? Anyone who thinks that is a moron, right?
I built my stroked 340 with a clean std bore '71 block back in 2008 so my original std bore numbers matching 340 could be set aside and not take risk of grenading blowing apart. Back then the 340 block cost me $500 and it was exceptionally clean. That $500 was a very small percentage of overall engine cost and I could say I have 340 block in factory 340 car. Things have changed over time where makes more sense now to use the cheaper 360 block as a starting point.With the 340's being hard to come by and expensive, I don't understand why guys want to Bore and stroke them and run the crap out of them. The last 340 block I saw for sale the guy wanted $600 just for the block. I'm not a fan of the 273's either
With the 340's being hard to come by and expensive, I don't understand why guys want to Bore and stroke them and run the crap out of them. The last 340 block I saw for sale the guy wanted $600 just for the block. I'm not a fan of the 273's either
$600?In the whole scheme of things, if building a half way serous stroker piece, a 600 dollar block is peanuts. I have more than that in my Victor intake and having it ported.
Just saying.
If 600 bucks is gonna kill me, I would have quit racing a million years ago..lol
There’s a lot you can do to freshen up that 340. Go back to stock or get crazy n do a 416 CI Stroker.How rare are 340’s getting now days? Pulled this solid runner cast crank one out with 727. Not sure to keep it stored or sell.
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It matters, but it’s not some magic squirrel ****. The converter or flywheel on the back of the crank is the biggest RPM retarder on the engine.
RPM and the ability to gain RPM (which is the definition of acceleration) is far more limited by the inability of the heads to feed the engine.
Standing there, blipping the throttle and thinking the engine is really zippy doesn’t mean a thing. What the engine does under load is what counts.
You can’t test for that on a water brake dyno either.
Disagree. Have you ever seen a dyno sheet? Valve float doesn't necessarily mean parts on the ground.... but power sure goes away.That's because horsepower keeps climbing with RPM. That is, until parts are layin on the ground. lol
Yours ran a lot better than mine.
Had a 69 Dart I owned in 1972 and 73
Had 3.55 gears and cheapy headers.
Best I got out of it was 14.23@ 99 mph, which was a hair quicker than some others back then that ran mid 14’s.
Suspect it was little better gear and the headers.
Thank you for the words of wisdom.You have some fixed notion that your way of building a “streeter” is the golden ticket. It’s not. It’s your fantasy of what a “streeter” is.
RPM is your friend.
that out of a 69 340? my valiant ran 14.2's all day long with a stock 79 360 long block with a performer intake and 600 holley being choked dowm by 273 manifolds. 3.55 gear too..