I've got this 65 Valiant with a 170 that I'm getting finished up to put back on the road. It's by far not finished. It's stock inside as far as I know. The motor is a 1966 170. It's got a Holley 1920 and stock exhaust and points ignition. I know the small stock air cleaner was restrictive so I added a 66 225 Cleaner Air Package air cleaner instead. Seem's like it might bring in more air since it's not closed up. I was looking in the carb specs in the 65 manual and it says there were 2 Holley 1920's for the 225 HP, one being a R-3058a. Is there a way to make the Holley 1920 perform better without having to change to a 2bbl? Is the Carter 1bbl a better choice for more torque? Will a Comp Cams Hi-Energy cam be worth the effort if still using a 1bbl? Do they make any ignition upgrades that can help torque? I see Accurate Exhaust makes a 2.25 exhaust system with a Magnum muffler. Would that help? I mean I've got my 73 Charger big block for the torque that I like to feel when I drive. But I like this Valiant, it's simple. But I want a little more than what it's got but don't want to do a motor change. Just looking for some ideas that work.
Are there any easy add ons to make more torque on a 170?
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replicaracer43
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Replace it with something bigger...... torque is a function of displacement, simply speaking
kittypancake
Well-Known Member
Its still an engine swap, but a stock 225 is pretty cheap, will increase tourque, and still keep it simple
Bigger engine is really the only effective way to get more torque.
Peak Torque happens fairly low in the powerband for most street cars and most stock engine are fairly efficient there. Torque is how much fuel and air you can get in the intake stroke (CID if both engine have the same VE) and HP is how much fuel and air you can put through your engine over time (RPM).
Gears are also an factor to torque at the wheels not just the crank cause an engine with 300lb-ft x 3:1 rear gear is 900lb-ft to the wheels and a 250lb-ft engine with 4:1 gear will 1000lb-ft to the wheels.
Peak Torque happens fairly low in the powerband for most street cars and most stock engine are fairly efficient there. Torque is how much fuel and air you can get in the intake stroke (CID if both engine have the same VE) and HP is how much fuel and air you can put through your engine over time (RPM).
Gears are also an factor to torque at the wheels not just the crank cause an engine with 300lb-ft x 3:1 rear gear is 900lb-ft to the wheels and a 250lb-ft engine with 4:1 gear will 1000lb-ft to the wheels.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
A high-ratio rear-end would be the easiest way to get an assured torque increase. I think there was a ~3.3:1 gear set. However, that would hurt you at highway speeds in mileage and the engine sounding like it is trying too hard. Also, consider down the road if you might change to BBP for front disk brakes.
The 1 bbl should be fine for torque, just not high air flow (max HP). Same deal for your stock exhaust. You might do better with electronic fuel injection, but not easy since no store-bought solution. It would improve mileage though.
The cheapest approach that might help would be electronic ignition. One cheap way is a stock electronic distributor (72+ engine) and the 8-pin HEI module/coil from a 85-95 GM V-8 truck. That is what I did on my slant. A Pertronix ignitor or Crane Cams XR700 would fit in your existing points distributor, so easy, but only cheap if you buy used on ebay. Get ignitor II to lose the ballast and run hotter. I wouldn't fool with the more complicated Mopar electronic ignition.
If you do install a 225 engine, if a later one (~67+), get the $20 ring to adapt your torque converter snout to the larger crankshaft bore. If not, you will be bad vibrations and possible destruction.
The 1 bbl should be fine for torque, just not high air flow (max HP). Same deal for your stock exhaust. You might do better with electronic fuel injection, but not easy since no store-bought solution. It would improve mileage though.
The cheapest approach that might help would be electronic ignition. One cheap way is a stock electronic distributor (72+ engine) and the 8-pin HEI module/coil from a 85-95 GM V-8 truck. That is what I did on my slant. A Pertronix ignitor or Crane Cams XR700 would fit in your existing points distributor, so easy, but only cheap if you buy used on ebay. Get ignitor II to lose the ballast and run hotter. I wouldn't fool with the more complicated Mopar electronic ignition.
If you do install a 225 engine, if a later one (~67+), get the $20 ring to adapt your torque converter snout to the larger crankshaft bore. If not, you will be bad vibrations and possible destruction.
Chuck Valiant
Beer Member
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Best single mod for torque/power is mill the head, to increase the compression ratio.
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