At what HP /rpm level are billet main caps and or stud girdle needed?

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92b

92b

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At what level of hp/RPM are billet main caps and or stud girdles needed? How much power/RPM will stock caps with studs handle?
512 stroker 400 block
trickflow 240's
H beam scat rods
440 source 24cc dished pistons
Ohio forged crank
10.4:1
cam chioce not made yet
Mostly street driven 69 barracuda. Occasionally taken to the strip.
Thank you.
 
This answer won't be received well but I don't care.....if your asking yourself these questions then the best answer is to just buy a real block and then it will come with good caps and the girdle won't be needed. Personally I think those band aid type supposed fixes are only endorsed by home engine builder type guys who typically always try whatever is cheapest first and professional builders know better and would tell you the same thing as I just did. "BUY THE BEST CRY ONCE"
 
I wouldn't even consider NOT runnin that stuff with the engine you've outlined. I'd consider it part of the assembly right off the bat. But to answer your question, I'd say a solid number is an honest 650HP, especially one that's gonna get beat on. I would also include a partial hard block fill to the bottom of the freeze plugs. Lastly, don't skimp on the cooling system.
 
You left out engine oil cooler if your gonna run a short fill or tall fill block but I still think your throwing BS at a not inherently strong block and when a block fails it ruins half the engine typically so pay now or pay later.
 
92b said:
At what level of hp/RPM are billet main caps and or stud girdles needed? How much power/RPM will stock caps with studs handle?
512 stroker 400 block
trickflow 240's
H beam scat rods
440 source 24cc dished pistons
Ohio forged crank
10.4:1
cam chioce not made yet
Mostly street driven 69 barracuda. Occasionally taken to the strip.
Thank you.
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For your build using a 400 block and mostly street driven. I wouldn't worry about billet main caps or a stud girdle. I have not built a BB stroker motor, but from buddies I race with (Most use 440 blocks) when they are around 13:1+, 7000 rpms + is when the block becomes the weak link. It seems the 400 block is stronger than the 440. I would like to build a similar stroker to what your listed. If I ever do it will be a strictly race motor and I wouldn't upgrade to the billet main cap or stud girdle. I would build it though so I don't have to spin it over 6500 and would hope for 600-625HP.
 
'68cuda416 said:
You left out engine oil cooler if your gonna run a short fill or tall fill block but I still think your throwing BS at a not inherently strong block and when a block fails it ruins half the engine typically so pay now or pay later.
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I tend to agree, but what's his other choice? I guess a 5K plus block? Since that wasn't in his options, I didn't include it.....but I agree it should be there.
 
One small question. Who sells an aftermarket low deck iron block? How much?
Easy to tell someone to spend money they don't have for something they can't get.....
 
Milodon makes the best caps. Not only use billet but also get side bolts like Hemis and Mega blocks . Milodon side bolts are 7/16 , Other brands are 3/8's. Hard block is used when the bores are found thin during sonic testing. Big strokers should also be hard blocked before boring to prevent thin walls from distorting. Your house is only as strong as the foundation you build it on.

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33IMP said:
One small question. Who sells an aftermarket low deck iron block? How much?
Easy to tell someone to spend money they don't have for something they can't get.....
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I don't know as I don't actively participate in big block stuff but i'm guessing he is running the 400 not solely because of it being low deck but more so because it has proven to be a better production block in the big block arena. To be honest it's still early yet and I glanced over the fact that he is using a 400 block anyhow, lol, but anyhow when guys have had failures and or want peace of mind and or making some good power they take the route of an aftermarket block.
 
33IMP said:
.....and if he is already starting with the best block available, it can be made significantly stronger for about a grand.
$6300 can buy some nice cylinder heads and camshaft.
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Which would then more than likely overpower the block....people can chase their tail if they want but i'm not going to
 
RammerJammer75 said:
I won't disagree with you, but honestly he would have more in a block than he probably would in this entire engine combo. I understand for strength and security, it's just a fat chunk of change for a mostly street engine that will probably live below 5k rpm it's life.
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The aftermarket big block stuff is a little pricey I will admit, it would be nice to see them get sub 4k range
 
I would buy an aftermarket block more for its ability to use a bigger bore, than the strength aspect, though that is a very welcome benefit.
If I had a good 400 block (I do) and if the main caps were missing (they are) and I were building a street/strip n/a motor, not some 1200 hp boosted combo (I am) I think a set of billet caps and a girdle and hardblock is a perfectly fine solution..
I bet I can get a stoker kit and some good heads with the money saved.
(and yeah, mid eight second laps with boost or nitrous, aftermarket block is step one)
 
33IMP said:
They are! (It just says chevy or ford on the valve covers.....)
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Aftermarket small blocks are sub 4 grand and are lighter and much easier to work on than a big block with headers but to each their own....I will just continue to embarrass big blocks left and right
 
Can you tell me where to find NEW aftermarket MOPAR small block blocks for under four grand? I'm sure there are lots here that would like to know.....
 
33IMP said:
Can you tell me where to find NEW aftermarket MOPAR small block blocks for under four grand? I'm sure there are lots here that would like to know.....
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You can buy as many as you want from Kent Ritter for approx 3400 and R3's still pop up on occasion and can be bought anywhere from high teens to mid 4's but usually somewhere in the 3k ish range will fetch one. My buddy and I just purchased 2 short deck R3 blocks a couple months ago that are siamese bore and new for 1800 a piece.
 
33IMP said:
.....and if he is already starting with the best block available, it can be made significantly stronger for about a grand.
$6300 can buy some nice cylinder heads and camshaft.
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I'm not arguing the point. That's why I didn't include an aftermarket block in my first response. He didn't ask for that. I simply made the later comment because they are out there.
 
33IMP said:
Can you tell me where to find NEW aftermarket MOPAR small block blocks for under four grand? I'm sure there are lots here that would like to know.....
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I currently have 6 R3's, 1 X block and 1 Ritter block all purchased in the last 4 years so one just has to look.
 
33IMP said:
Can you tell me where to find NEW aftermarket MOPAR small block blocks for under four grand? I'm sure there are lots here that would like to know.....
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What's that got to do with this thread? This is about a big block.
 
33IMP said:
Can you tell me where to find NEW aftermarket MOPAR small block blocks for under four grand? I'm sure there are lots here that would like to know.....
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Jim's Auto Parts is showing them. Now, as to whether they're IN STOCK is a totally different thing.
 
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