auto dark welding helmets what U use

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Bought one off the Cornwell truck, silver with nice shape and neck guard. Have never adjusted it and it always works perfect. Even after being thrown. Don't know what I ever did without it. Glad to know it's not just me with the light issue. Since turning 45 I've had to use my pocket flashlight to start a weld.
 
Well being from sweden ofcourse i use speedglas :) This is what im having at work

speedglasAcesHigh_zpszehyo9oo.jpg
 
I have a Lincoln Viking helmet and I have the same issue. Hard to see. I blame it mostly on my dark garage and being blind as a bat (i'm very near sighted).

I really have to light up my work piece so I can even see where to strike the arc. It's just not always so easy to bring a light to the work piece.

I'm going to try using those 2X reading glasses that some of you have mentioned. Maybe that will help.
 
I run a Miller. Screw harbor freight. My eyesight ain't worth knockoff trash. Too many counterfeit products out there!

If you're going to tig, buy a name brand helmet, the tig frequencies aren't always enough to trip the shade on the hf hoods.

A better hood has a better lens, the cheap ones are darker lenses all the time because the shade is nfg
 
I have a Miller auto darkening helmet. Love it cause it also has a slot to slide a magnifying lens in it if your vision is not great like mine. The very first corrective lens I grabbed (a 1.25 magnification if I remember right) was perfect. I noticed some auto dark helmets only go down to #10 while others go down to 9. Since your like me and don't see good make sure to get one that goes down to shade #9 cause welding thin stuff on low settings will be hard to see on a #10. My Miller is actually a 2 in one helmet in that you can flip up the welding helmet part and leave the inner part down that is clear for grinding. It too has an adjustment on how dark I want it and how fast I want it to react to light and if I want it to immediately go light again when the arc stops or delay it a second. It also has an oversize viewing area. You can get a HF (or any other off brand) helmet cheaper and they are a big improvement over a std helmet but it won't be the same quality a Miller (or other top brand) is IMO.
 
I use a Jackson Nexgen, I used it all though school started with theirs then bought my own. It has auto dark up to 10 I believe and a setting which slightly darkens it for grinding as well. The best feature is the auto off, saves them batteries.
 
I have a old speedglass that still works great, picked up a newer Miller one a few years back ( bigger lens ) but knocked it off the welded one to many times now the lens is cracked. still auto darkens just one side a split second faster...lol
 
I have a Miller Digital Performance and I use #2.5 cheater glasses when I weld.
Like Tracy said above, mine also has the provisions for a magnifying lens but I've never tried one yet.

Ted
 
iam a retired machinist. but before that i did a lot of welding. at that time auto dark was just a dream. dont miss at all.
 
jos51700 said:
I run a Miller. Screw harbor freight. My eyesight ain't worth knockoff trash. Too many counterfeit products out there!

If you're going to tig, buy a name brand helmet, the tig frequencies aren't always enough to trip the shade on the hf hoods.

A better hood has a better lens, the cheap ones are darker lenses all the time because the shade is nfg
Click to expand...

This!

I was seeing spots after using a chinese lense and no-name helmet.

Never had a problem mig welding with a cheap helmet, but the tig will not cut me any slack!

I threw the damn thing in the trash, proper. A week ago, I bought this;

jackson-welding-helmet-black-insight-auto-dark-lens-40713-2.jpg


This is what I see, looking from the inside;

jackson-welding-helmet-black-insight-auto-dark-lens-40713-6.jpg


For the price and its features, I have yet to use or see a better helmet.

What sold me were the four unique position arc sensors and the #3 shade vs most #4 when off. It has adjustable sensitivity, adjustable return delay (nice for pulse welding) 9-13 shade on a light #3 "off" shade and a button for grind mode, which leaves it at #3. This mode is awesome for alternating conditions, like seeking and correcting pinholes or working on sheet metal, when you alternate quickly between grinding and welding.

The sensors trip at 5amps DC on my TIG and I've never had a problem with it. Protective lenses are a common size, flat in shape and easy to replace, as well as the auto dim unit itself, if need be.

Good price on this unit;

http://store.cyberweld.com/jawehebl...6c696e617531&gclid=CJqzrIKIysUCFYgAaQodPU8Afw
 
I use the ESAB New-Tech 6-13 XL ADC Plus. It's the best welding helmet I've ever owned. The downside the cost is around 400 dollars...
 
Lincoln Viking 3350. Great shade with more than ample viewing area. Settings are easy to use.
 
Harbor freight auto-darkening, welded with it in a production environment 10 hours a day 7 days a week for 3 months, never let me down. If you want to feel fancy, I guess you can drop large on this; then pay extra for all the replacement lenses and toys... Whatever floats your boat dude.
 
miller digital elite is the best helmet i have used also. the bigger view is also a huge plus
 
STARK Industries!
iron_man.jpg


Actually I am with Poisondart74 and a few others. If I welded as much as I used to I would want the larger window but the newer HF unit that doesn't require batteries has been great so far.
 
I have a WIA brand one, had it for about 8 years, no complaints with it.
 
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