dustoff440
Well-Known Member
Im totally rewiring my car doing my own thing. To avoid relays I am running much larger gauge wire and than necessary and just using an inline fuse for each component. Is there a problem with this??
avoiding using relays??
- Thread starter dustoff440
- Start date
-
12valve
Well-Known Member
You'll still be running the load thru your switches. With a relay, you're switches live an easier life because they are not seeing the applied load on the internals
69B-Cuda
Well-Known Member
running a relay does not mean you can run a smaller gauge wire. Headlights for example, if you run a relay, you run your large power wire into the relay and then on to the headlights. Your smaller wire to activate the relay comes from your headlight switch saving the contacts in the switch, reducing the current through that, the dimmer switch, and your bulkhead connector... so, what are you going to do about the switches and bulkhead connector?
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
no bulkhead connector at all I was going to run a 30 amp toggle on the head lamps one for low beam and one for high beam each fused
cuda65vpt
cuda65vpt
In general most people look for a way to use a relay not eliminate it.
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
cheapness and simplicity and less things to go wrong.....
I was under the impression that use of relays made it possible to not have to run more and heavier gauge wiring
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
This is basically true. but part of the trouble is the ignition switch and the switch connector, and if using heavier headlights, the load on the headlight switch and connector and the dimmer switch and connector. Only thing you have eliminated is the bulkhead
The argument "for" relays is to simply look at modern cars.......many (most?) modern cars use an underhood relay / fuse panel to shorten wiring and reduce loads on wiring going into / out of the interior.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Believe me, you will be sorry you did that if you follow through with it.
It's not as simple a solution as you think it is, and I'm already picturing dim lights and a burned thumb from the switch as some of the results.
hemi446
Well-Known Member
I think relays work great for handling the load of any device. If you are running a high volume high pressure fuel pump the wiring alone just can't handle the current and in most cases the switches can't handle the start up current. What kind of switch would you use on the starter, some starter motors draw 250-400 amps. You need relays just to keep the wiring & switches from melting overtime. But good luck with your project.
66plyValiant
Well-Known Member
relays are not a bad thing, and avioding using them won't harm anything, but its much easier on switches and stufff if you do use them; headlights tend to be brighter, and less heavy gauge wire has to be used, since the heavy load is from the relay to the headlights or whatever your running
The main advantage of relays is lessen the likelihood of cabin fires ( burning the beans/beings ).
When the relay is close to the item it supplies those heavy gauge high amp conductors are not only shorter but outside the cabin as well.
The pizzy little wires and inline fuses are comparable to manually operated switches inside the cabin that signal the relays.
The larger OEM wires though the OEM bulkhead connector are a very good example of what you don't want.
When the relay is close to the item it supplies those heavy gauge high amp conductors are not only shorter but outside the cabin as well.
The pizzy little wires and inline fuses are comparable to manually operated switches inside the cabin that signal the relays.
The larger OEM wires though the OEM bulkhead connector are a very good example of what you don't want.
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
I was thinking of using a ford type solenoid for the starter
Viper21700
Well-Known Member
Redfish made a good point... Why not run relays? Personally I would like to keep the heavy amp requirements out from under my dashboard, and running relays can do just that. Relays are easy to replace, simple to wire in, and if you really want to be safe, run an entire fused electrical relay panel under your hood. Don't know about you but I hate having the magic smoke come from under my dash board...
KENTON
Well-Known Member
I did just what you are proposing to do on one of my builds. And if I run my heater blower on high, the ignition switch is so hot I can't touch it. I am trying to learn from this and found a site called mad wiring ( I think) that helped me out.
Blue Grey Duster
Well-Known Member
Here is some good info..
Hope this helps.
Relays: WHY AND HOW TO UPGRADE YOUR HEADLAMP CIRCUIT
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
Hope this helps.
Relays: WHY AND HOW TO UPGRADE YOUR HEADLAMP CIRCUIT
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Relays good. Car fires bad.
Money's an issue? Spend $2, go to the pick-a-part near you, fill your box (and your toolbox, natch) with all the relays and fuses you can fit. Buy a late-model fuse/relay block while you're there.
The price of high-load switches, heavy-gauge wires, and constantly refilling fire extinguishers will far outweigh the cost of using a fat stack 'o relays in your fancy-pants late-model relay block. On top of that, adding stuff later....cinch.
Money's an issue? Spend $2, go to the pick-a-part near you, fill your box (and your toolbox, natch) with all the relays and fuses you can fit. Buy a late-model fuse/relay block while you're there.
The price of high-load switches, heavy-gauge wires, and constantly refilling fire extinguishers will far outweigh the cost of using a fat stack 'o relays in your fancy-pants late-model relay block. On top of that, adding stuff later....cinch.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You ARE working on a Mopar, right? Mopar starters already have a built in solenoid. Or are you talking about replacing the starter relay? That again would be poorly advised, for a couple of reasons.
First, Mopar starter relays work just fine, and they integrate neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch features
Use relays.
I build relay kits for some components and there is no other way I'd wire headlights, electric fans, fuel pumps.
Takes a the load off the switch. That's a good thing.
I build relay kits for some components and there is no other way I'd wire headlights, electric fans, fuel pumps.
Takes a the load off the switch. That's a good thing.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
nuttyprof
Well-Known Member
X27
Use relays.
Use relays.
I'll be lookin south for the smoke cloud.
BobbyY
Old Mopar guy
When I first read the link I thought cool, someone is going to wire all of the high current stuff up through some Triacs (basically a solid state relay just doesn't go click click). Then I continued reading and visions of smoke curls from the dash shook me into reality. Like the poll says don't do it. Every wonder why old head light switches and heater blower switches were thing that seemed to break. High current causes heat in any connection or switch that is not absolutely at or near zero ohms. Lets assume for a moment that you are running standard sealed beam lights. High beam is 65 Watts and low beam is 50. At 13 volts that is 5 amps per side of a total of 10 amps through the switch. The is either 2 runs of 18 gauge wire (one to each light) or one run of 14 with a y connector feeding each light. Now I know your thinking 10 amps, a lot of switches will handle that and you would be right. But let that switch get just a little carbon build up and it then becomes a resistor that is having to dissipate the heat. The more it disapates the more likely it is build more carbon, and so on and so on. Just in case you're thinking that 65 watts doesn't get that hot, reach up and unscrew one of your 50 lamps at home. One last note, the above wire sizes have no safety margin built in. Remember the longer the wire the higher the internal resistance becomes and the less bright your light will be. This is the long version advising against doing it. Enjoy your car for a long time to come.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
May as well light it on fire and call the insurance now. Be sure your policy is paid current.
The switched wire that activates the relay takes less than 1 amp to pull the coil in the relay. Think your going at it backasswards.
The switched wire that activates the relay takes less than 1 amp to pull the coil in the relay. Think your going at it backasswards.
-
