avoiding using relays??

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Relays are cheaper. Have you priced wire lately? Also, add up the weight of all this heavy gage wire. I put a junkyard relay box in both my early A's. I actuate them with light 20 awg wires. As far as trouble-shooting, it is easy to pull a relay and jumper from 30 (sideways one) to 87 terminals to actuate whatever the relay does. I keep a spade-spade jumper in all my newer cars to do so (like bypass starter relay).
 
BobbyY said:
When I first read the link I thought cool, someone is going to wire all of the high current stuff up through some Triacs .
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"Solid state switching" sounds so damned appealing. I haven't kept up, but I don't know of ANY solid state switching device that does not have some voltage drop, something you pretty much cannot afford on 12-14V devices.

I did find these............so evidently I am a little behind..........

http://delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/ee/eec/solid-state-relay/

high-current-solid-state-relay-2.jpg



PROOF YOU CANNOT BELIEVE AMAZON:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-931680011-SPDT-Solid-State-Relay/dp/B004KEL4LG"]HELLA 931680011 12V 20/40 Amp SPDT RES Solid-State Relay : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

Amazon claims this is a solid state relay, but 30 seconds with Google says "nada."



Only thing better (expensive) is some type of hermetically sealed relays. I'm not talking about relays that are in some plastic cover, I'm talking about actual sealed relays. I used to have a "bucket" of these WWII surplus---and every single one was either high resistance or 24VDC coils.

41SCVxEn7nL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


And then there are vacuum relays..............but they are generally high voltage, low current contacts

OMEGATRM15.jpg
 
BillGrissom said:
Relays are cheaper. Have you priced wire lately? Also, add up the weight of all this heavy gage wire. I put a junkyard relay box in both my early A's. I actuate them with light 20 awg wires. As far as trouble-shooting, it is easy to pull a relay and jumper from 30 (sideways one) to 87 terminals to actuate whatever the relay does. I keep a spade-spade jumper in all my newer cars to do so (like bypass starter relay).
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how about a 100 foot roll of 8awg for 30 bucks
 
dustoff440 said:
how about a 100 foot roll of 8awg for 30 bucks
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Does that factor in rebuilding the car from the resulting fire?

Price all the switches and connectors for that heavy-guage high-current stuff and get back to me.
 
jos51700 said:
Does that factor in rebuilding the car from the resulting fire?

Price all the switches and connectors for that heavy-guage high-current stuff and get back to me.
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If everything is fused and the switches are also overkill on amperage capacity where's the fire hazard
 
dustoff440 said:
If everything is fused and the switches are also overkill on amperage capacity where's the fire hazard
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There isn't one. The stock stuff couldn't handle the amps. That doesn't mean that switches that could carry the load can't be installed. BUT....how cobbled up do you want your car to look??? We could bolt a few 60 amp disconnects on your dash.....I'll run 40 amps through #8 wire all day long, what is this going to look like? The DeLorean from back to the future?
 
Dustoff, There is allways more than one way to do something, some better than others, some not. When you ask on a open forum like this, you are going to get the hole gambit of responces. If you want to put all of your fuses out at the source (battery) and use heavy gauge wire and appropriately rated switches, it should not be a fire hazard. If you want to use any existing wiring and the bulkhead connector then there is a real possibility of some of the smoke getting let out and once it gets out is hard to put it back in. When you tally up the score, it is overwhelming in favor of using relays and low current switches and wires. In the end it is your project. Here area couple of thing to keep in mind if you decide to go the way you are leaning. In one of your post you mentioned you weren't going to use the bulkhead connector, how do you plan on getting the wire from the dash to the other side of the firewall. If you are planning on cutting one large hole or several small ones, you have to have a way to protect the wires. Yes you can use rubber grommets and tape the wire up. With my back ground in two way radio communications with police, fire and EMS being our biggest customers we did it all the time. A couple of thing to keep in mind, when we did it we knew the life expediency of the vehicle was around 3 years (excluding Fire apparatus) longer than that and the rubber gromets start getting brittle leaving a place for wires to get chafed. When that happens the best you hope for is the insulation to cut through and blow a fuse. At the other end of this and I've seen it many times over my long career, is for the insulation too wear through only allowing a partial short. If the current being drawn through the partial/intermittent short isn't enough to blow the fuse, it starts smoldering. How many house fires have we seen because a electrical plug partially shorted internially and not enough to trip the breaker. That is one reason in houses built after 2002 require ARC plugs be installed in bedroom. They detect the arc formed when the current drawn is not enough to trip the breaker but still enough to start a fire. One last caution, if you do drill one or multiple holes through the firewall please make sure you seal them up, you don't want exhaust fumes getting back in the car.

Good luck which ever way you go.
Bobby
 
This guy already knows it all and we are just wasting our time trying to convince him. I for one, am done. As Cracked would say, "I'm out."
 
Guys I just want something that is dead simple. There isn't one crumb of stock wiring including no bulkhead connector. This is a custom wiring job from scratch.
I haven't ever been called a know it all but I have been called hard headed and an out of the box thinker. Good or bad thank for your input.
 
65cuda360 said:
There isn't one. The stock stuff couldn't handle the amps. That doesn't mean that switches that could carry the load can't be installed. BUT....how cobbled up do you want your car to look??? We could bolt a few 60 amp disconnects on your dash.....I'll run 40 amps through #8 wire all day long, what is this going to look like? The DeLorean from back to the future?
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Very close guess. I am an ex Army Medevac pilot and I will be setting up the instruments to resemble the cockpit instrument panel of a UH1 Huey Helicopter I will also be using an original Huey cyclic grip mounted to a B and M shifter Oh, I forgot to mention that I was a line mechanic in a Chrysler dealership in the 70's. I also have 15 years Certified teaching experience teaching high school science. So I'm not some jerkwad that slams someone who has a different take on doing things.
 
dustoff440 said:
You met my expectations...someone who follows and can't lead and who doesn't have the vocabulary to make their own comments. Shove it up your own hole.
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Lol, I was just messin with you. The flip off emogiee is laughing @ you if you missed it. Build your car how you want. On Yellowbullet you really would get your *** chewed up and spit out..... This site there are a bunch of sissy's that get their panties in a wad over nothing.

Lead, follow or get the F-bomb out of the way! Haaa
 
LOL, I just LOVE the ignore list. dustoff, you're new here. "Mad" is not. neither am I. You have two ways to go here, and one of em is to continue DOWN the road you are on. If you came here to be a PITA you have failed, as I, for one, don't have to put up with it.
 

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