im running a 750 avs on my 360 and i only have one screw to control the air/fuel adjustment. The spots where they usually have them are blocked off with plugs. Ive been told this is so you would have to bring it to the dealership to get it fixed but i dont know. i was just wondering where my one screw should be set at. right now i have it one turn out.
avs air fuel adjustment screw
- Thread starter tonyp1987
- Start date
-
412 Stroker
Well-Known Member
take a picture i would like to see that.
That's an oldie but goodie right there. You adjust it just like any of the rest. Here's how. First, you need to make sure the timing is right. Then...for automatics.....apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels. Drop it in drive. Make your adjustments from the SIDE of the car just in case it decides to overcome your safety precautions. Don't wanna see a flattened member. Attach a vacuum gauge to a MANIFOLD vacuum outlet. Adjust the air screw until you acheive the highest vacuum reading and then one half additional turn lean (counter clockwise). then you're done.
would this being out of adjustment be causing the car to chug and sometimes die when taking off. Even coming off the freeway and letting it coast when it gets down around 1000rpms it will chug. Im not sure if its the screw or my choke.
412 Stroker
Well-Known Member
Boy looking at that picture, that carb needs a rebuild kit, has it ever been rebuilt?? it looks original, that might be alot of your issues with your poor performing 360, have you checked your timing?? this is a carry over from your other post on your poor performing 360, what are you gonna do with your pushrods/valve train you said you were gonna change the cam, if you do that you should redo the valvetrain, well you need to redo the valvetrain either way...
Maybe, but it would have to be way out of adjustment. Usually, only idle quality is effected. Do you know how to adjust the choke? When it's cold first thing in the morning, the choke should be adjust so that it is BARELY and I mean BARELY shut all the way. If it's closed AT ALL when up to operating temp, it's too tight. Oh, and that carb might be old....but keep it. As long as the throttle shafts aren't worn, it's better than anything off the shelf from Crappelbrock.
Longgone
John/68 Barracuda & Dart
My Dart was running like crap and I finally took it to a carb guru. He ended up drilling out the lead and backing out the idle mixture screws. That carb design was the beginning of emission controls. Check out this thread; especially page two, I had an issue with those idle mixture screws some time ago. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=29582&highlight=rough
dodge freak
Well-Known Member
I thought you had a newer Edelbrock avs 750!!
Tosh that carb and get a real hp 750 carb if you want more power. I ran those old avs carbs and power wise they do lack over the newer avs.
Really a holley dp would make more power but chances are it won't idle as clean and good, mostly when motor is cold.
I would get a Edelbrock avs 750 and that 10 inch converter if you have an extra $500. Wait, you need 3.91 gears also. Well not need but it sure would round out the package. Keep in mind at 80 mph on the freeway your motor will be spinning. I ran my 3.91 for 10 miles yesterday @ 70 mph plus on the E way. Exhaust isn't too loud and motor was balanced. Wasn't for gas $$$ I could had went 200 miles. Motor was running cool also @ 175 in 80 degrees sunshine.
BTW, I was getting 10 mpg with my old motor. Now this 340 with the 10 inch converter been getting me 8 mpg with 93 octane gas.
Tosh that carb and get a real hp 750 carb if you want more power. I ran those old avs carbs and power wise they do lack over the newer avs.
Really a holley dp would make more power but chances are it won't idle as clean and good, mostly when motor is cold.
I would get a Edelbrock avs 750 and that 10 inch converter if you have an extra $500. Wait, you need 3.91 gears also. Well not need but it sure would round out the package. Keep in mind at 80 mph on the freeway your motor will be spinning. I ran my 3.91 for 10 miles yesterday @ 70 mph plus on the E way. Exhaust isn't too loud and motor was balanced. Wasn't for gas $$$ I could had went 200 miles. Motor was running cool also @ 175 in 80 degrees sunshine.
BTW, I was getting 10 mpg with my old motor. Now this 340 with the 10 inch converter been getting me 8 mpg with 93 octane gas.
Yeah im changing the cam out, but im not sure if i want to use the one i bought cause I would like to run more lift.i would like to be right over .500 instead of .477. The carb is fully rebuilt. The guy that built my motor knows a guy that rebuilds carbs and he charged me 225 for rebuild and 50 for the core. it looks really ugly i know. not shiny like edelbrocks. I wish i would have just bought a new holley, but im still learning from my mistakes. Ive been looking into rocker arms too but i dont know too much about the ratio's yet. On the comp website it says the cam i just bought requires adjustable valvetrain.
Tony, on the carb, you've gotten good answers. That one and only screw is an adjustable airbleed for the carb. I'd skip the OE AVS if ya can. There not to flexable without a reworking. The new Edel. AVS is a little better, but the Holley is best.
On the rocker ratio, you should know the cam lift at the lobe and then multiply it by the rocker ratio.
Or, if your cam is a .477 lift and want to change to a higher ratio, then it looks like this;
.477 / 1.5 = .318 (Lobe lift.)
.318 X 1.6 (New rocker ratio) = .5088 (New, in theroy lift at the valve)
Most sellers of cams want you to have a adjustable rocker to adjust for excellent contact patch on the rockers tip to valve stem for optimum geometry.
On the rocker ratio, you should know the cam lift at the lobe and then multiply it by the rocker ratio.
Or, if your cam is a .477 lift and want to change to a higher ratio, then it looks like this;
.477 / 1.5 = .318 (Lobe lift.)
.318 X 1.6 (New rocker ratio) = .5088 (New, in theroy lift at the valve)
Most sellers of cams want you to have a adjustable rocker to adjust for excellent contact patch on the rockers tip to valve stem for optimum geometry.
moper
Well-Known Member
As noted.. that screw only adjusts the air in the idle mix. The fuel screws are present but under the lead. If the carb guy was worth the cash he would have removed the plugs to remove and clean the screws if for no other reason, then installed the new lead caps that come in the rebuild kit... You will need to open those access plugs.
-
