B-body axle into a a-body

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Moparornocar51

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Hi i got a b-body axle 8 1/4" from a satellite the original i have now its just a 7 1/4" i know that this b-body axle is a bit longer than my a-body axle now, can u tell me please what i have to change? trans is a 904!

Yoke or drifeshaft?

Thanks Peter
 
my friend, the b-body rear end is too wide for your A-body car, you will need the correct rear end, by the way, I have one for sale

Unless you want to spend the money to have it cut down, and purchase a new set of axles.

Way to expensive to go this route

mopar charlie
 
Depending on the width of the rear, you need to get wheels with more backspace.

There are MANY A-body cars with B rears in them

Move perches to A-body width and may need a shorter driveshaft.

Talk about dregdging up the dead, a two + year old thread???? Insert Monty Python scene here...
 
The early B 8 3/4 axle (non-keyed hub) is narrower than the later B's. I went from a early B (from a 65 wagon :tard:) to a A body 8 3/4 because it was 3/4" narrower on each side than my early B was for tire clearance. I would say it would be the one of choice but it is only a 10 1/2 brake. Also watch out for the axle flange to housing flange distance. There are three common sizes or measurements here which will effect what brake drums set ups will interchange. Two are B 8 3/4's and one for the A body 8 3/4. That's why Moser, Currie, Strange, etc all ask what or which brakes you are planning on using when you order axles; it's for that spacing.
If worse came to worse, you'll need to adjust the back spacing on the wheels but that's about it. I have a local guy who makes/adjusts steel wheels fairly cheaply, compared to buying new aluminum stuff. (15x12, nothing special center, custom offset $60 ea.) He moved the centers on my rallye wheels 1/2" for $50 and managed to save the visible powder coating.
Check and measure carefully. Remember; you can cut a board twice and it can still be too short.

Happy measuring
 
check out my duster it has a b body rear end in it and it looks nice
 
I have a '69 B-body rear in my '68 A-body barracuda...all I had to do was cut the spring perches off and weld new ones inward 1/2 inch each side, for a total of 43" inches center to center. (measuring from the center hole in the spring perch) im using a deeper backspace rim though. 17x8 with 5.72" of backspace to be exact....didnt have to touch the driveshaft....
 
If the axle you have is an 8 1/4, it would be out of a '71-'74 B body (since they weren't around earlier than that).

That would mean its 57 7/8" wide, vs 52 5/8" for an A-body, which means its really too wide for an A, over 2 1/2" wider on each side. The earlier B body 8 3/4 rears will fit, but the widest of those is the '68-'70 and they're only 54 15/16" wide. That's only a little over an inch wider per side, which can be sorted pretty easily with a little more backspace.
 
If the axle you have is an 8 1/4, it would be out of a '71-'74 B body (since they weren't around earlier than that).

That would mean its 57 7/8" wide, vs 52 5/8" for an A-body, which means its really too wide for an A, over 2 1/2" wider on each side. The earlier B body 8 3/4 rears will fit, but the widest of those is the '68-'70 and they're only 54 15/16" wide. That's only a little over an inch wider per side, which can be sorted pretty easily with a little more backspace.

'69 was the first year of the 8 1/4 in the B body, I have 2 of them.

Yes a 68-70 b body rear will fit in a swinger, and you can even use stock 14x5.5 rallys with 235/60/14s and rolled 1/4 lips. It's tight but doable, dusters have more room so it's easier.
 
this post is almost 2 years ago lol, i allready bought a a-body 8 3/4 and installed it also 2 years ago :thumrigh: but thx for the comments and tips
 
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