B Body rear end housing

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1970 duster

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I pick up a B Body rear end for my A Body Duster yes for the large bolt. I realize that the spring perches will have to be relocated 1/2 in. I checked the spring perch they seem to be 5 degrees off towards the front of the car, or the pumpkin when installed on the car, is this correct? Has anyone used B Body rear end with success by only moving the spring perches ? Looking to fill the wheel well with the wider rear end. it is approximately 3.8 inches wider. Tire size 14-225-70 Thanks
 
I haven't ran one but I've read about guys that do run them. As long as you move the perches and run tire/rim combo that keeps the wheels/tires inside the fenders your ok. I'm not quite clear on your question about the perches but I assume your referring to the yoke being angled down 5 degrees? If that's what your saying that's correct. They need to be angled down like that because when you accelerate the rearend naturally want's to twist upwards at the pinion so the introduced angle cancels out under motion.
 
AND, you need that angle when your driving under normal conditions to promote needle bearing rotation in the u-joint cups to prevent premature wear.
 
I just installed B body 8 3/4 rear end in my 71 Scamp.. Fits well. Grinded off old perches, set on new onesand installed without welding for now. When 440 and tranny is in and I'm ready to measure for driveshaft length I'll set pinion angle to 5' and weld.

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P.S.... Have 2007 Mustang Torqthruster rims in it for now. They had the perfect offset. They Are 17"X8" 6.295" backspace and 45 mm offset. Almost positive of the numbers, But I'll measure backspacing tomorrow and post more pics
 
I just did this swap middle of this summer. I removed a noisy 8 1/4 and swapped in a B body rear. What I did was checked the angle of the spring perches on the factory rear on both sides and then at the nose of that rear before removing it. I set the perches on the springs then the empty housing onto the perches then measured from the front spring eye on both sides just to verify that the rear was centered in the wheel well. I then checked several measurements at different places from the body to get the rear housing as equal as possible from side to side, because the housing can be slid from side to side while resting on the perches before tack welding.I again re verified the angle on the perches and at the nose of the rear before tack welding onto the perches. After that then I removed the whole housing to properly weld the perches. Installed the rear, measured for a new driveline. Road tested on the street and at the track, all is good, no vibrations or issues. Not sure if this was a correct procedure but that's what worked for me. Just take your time, other's have done this swap with success and I have had success as well, good luck.:)
 
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