Keystone
Well-Known Member
1973 Dart Swinger. Very solid driver quality car with clean PA title in hand, runs and drives great. See below for full specs.
See my FABO Member Restoration thread for details on some of what I fixed in the 5 years I’ve owned it: Getting a '73 Swinger Back on the Road
All documentation and receipts will go with it. Only selling because I’m making good progress on the Slant > Magnum swap on my orange car, and once that’s done I’ll be driving that one. Price is $8900 Located just outside of Lewistown, PA 17044
Engine: Rebuilt mid-80’s 318LA, bored 0.040” over, “302” closed chamber heads, Summit K6900 cam, Comp 901 valve springs
Fuel & Air: Weiand Action Plus dual plane intake manifold, Holley 4160 vacuum secondary 600CFM 4bbl carburetor, #66 primary main jets and 8.5 power valve, #134-9 secondary metering plate
Ignition and Electrical: Factory Chrysler electronic upgraded to GM HEI, Distributor recurve with FBO kit, Magnum series “mini” starter
Exhaust: Summit Racing 1-5/8” long tube headers (pass. side with welded O2 bung) and 2-1/2” dual exhaust
Transmission: Stock 904 3-speed automatic, column shift, correct 33 tooth speedometer gear to match gear ratio
Rear: Chrysler 8-1/4, sure-grip, 3.21 ratio, new axle bearings and seals
Brakes: Factory disc front, 10” drum rear, upgraded aluminum body master cylinder
Suspension and Steering: SS leaf springs, Moog K7103 offset upper control arm bushings, KYB shocks front, Chrysler P4529514 rear, swapped-in 24:1 manual box
Wheels/Tires: Big Bolt Pattern (5 on 4.5”) Keystone Classic, 14 x 6” with 205/70R-14 front and 14 x 7” with 225/70R-14 rear
Instrumentation: Factory cluster with addition of volt/temp./oil pressure gauges, tachometer
Body: New front floor pans, new wiper pivot seals, welded in subframe connectors, new gas tank
Interior and Miscellaneous: Bucket seats from Scion TC (original front bench seat included), new carpet
Remaining issues:
- Ring and pinion on the 8-1/4 have some rust pitting and are a little noisy.
- Driver’s side door hinge bushings are starting to wear. I lift slightly when I close it and it’s fine, but if you don’t it hits the striker to lift up as it closes
- There was a key broken off in the driver’s side lock cylinder. I replaced both sides, so now the car has 3 keys. Both original door lock cylinders that match the ignition lock cylinder go with the car
- Transmission has a slow leak. I changed the pan gasket, shift selector seal, speedometer gear o-ring, dipstick tube seal, and installed a new rear seal and bushing, but it still drips 1 to 2 drops when it’s parked. I’m not sure what else to do with it at this point
- This car has not been restored; it has the typical squeaks, rattles, wind noise, etc. you'd expect from a vehicle that's 50 years old. There are dings and paint wear (what people refer to as "patina") throughout the body. The driver's side quarter panel was repainted at some point and the shade of blue is a little off and whoever removed the door-ding molding originally pulled some paint off with it.
The paint on the roof is cloudy in spots. I didn’t have adequate light in my workshop when painting it and there are areas where the coverage was too light. Also, I apparently failed to completely neutralize the rust in some areas because there are a few very small spots that are starting to lift. This was not rust through but some pitting that I filled in. It’s closer to the front of the roof and not around the rear window, as that was cut out and replaced with good metal. I would recommend addressing those spots individually (not the entire roof) before adding another coat of black.
- The interior was originally blue. Someone before me changed it to black and while it looks to be well done, it is wearing off in spots, namely the arm rests, kick panels and the lower front corner of the door panels. It would bee easy to touch up, it just didn't bother me enough to do it.
All pictures taken April 2022
See my FABO Member Restoration thread for details on some of what I fixed in the 5 years I’ve owned it: Getting a '73 Swinger Back on the Road
All documentation and receipts will go with it. Only selling because I’m making good progress on the Slant > Magnum swap on my orange car, and once that’s done I’ll be driving that one. Price is $8900 Located just outside of Lewistown, PA 17044
Engine: Rebuilt mid-80’s 318LA, bored 0.040” over, “302” closed chamber heads, Summit K6900 cam, Comp 901 valve springs
Fuel & Air: Weiand Action Plus dual plane intake manifold, Holley 4160 vacuum secondary 600CFM 4bbl carburetor, #66 primary main jets and 8.5 power valve, #134-9 secondary metering plate
Ignition and Electrical: Factory Chrysler electronic upgraded to GM HEI, Distributor recurve with FBO kit, Magnum series “mini” starter
Exhaust: Summit Racing 1-5/8” long tube headers (pass. side with welded O2 bung) and 2-1/2” dual exhaust
Transmission: Stock 904 3-speed automatic, column shift, correct 33 tooth speedometer gear to match gear ratio
Rear: Chrysler 8-1/4, sure-grip, 3.21 ratio, new axle bearings and seals
Brakes: Factory disc front, 10” drum rear, upgraded aluminum body master cylinder
Suspension and Steering: SS leaf springs, Moog K7103 offset upper control arm bushings, KYB shocks front, Chrysler P4529514 rear, swapped-in 24:1 manual box
Wheels/Tires: Big Bolt Pattern (5 on 4.5”) Keystone Classic, 14 x 6” with 205/70R-14 front and 14 x 7” with 225/70R-14 rear
Instrumentation: Factory cluster with addition of volt/temp./oil pressure gauges, tachometer
Body: New front floor pans, new wiper pivot seals, welded in subframe connectors, new gas tank
Interior and Miscellaneous: Bucket seats from Scion TC (original front bench seat included), new carpet
Remaining issues:
- Ring and pinion on the 8-1/4 have some rust pitting and are a little noisy.
- Driver’s side door hinge bushings are starting to wear. I lift slightly when I close it and it’s fine, but if you don’t it hits the striker to lift up as it closes
- There was a key broken off in the driver’s side lock cylinder. I replaced both sides, so now the car has 3 keys. Both original door lock cylinders that match the ignition lock cylinder go with the car
- Transmission has a slow leak. I changed the pan gasket, shift selector seal, speedometer gear o-ring, dipstick tube seal, and installed a new rear seal and bushing, but it still drips 1 to 2 drops when it’s parked. I’m not sure what else to do with it at this point
- This car has not been restored; it has the typical squeaks, rattles, wind noise, etc. you'd expect from a vehicle that's 50 years old. There are dings and paint wear (what people refer to as "patina") throughout the body. The driver's side quarter panel was repainted at some point and the shade of blue is a little off and whoever removed the door-ding molding originally pulled some paint off with it.
The paint on the roof is cloudy in spots. I didn’t have adequate light in my workshop when painting it and there are areas where the coverage was too light. Also, I apparently failed to completely neutralize the rust in some areas because there are a few very small spots that are starting to lift. This was not rust through but some pitting that I filled in. It’s closer to the front of the roof and not around the rear window, as that was cut out and replaced with good metal. I would recommend addressing those spots individually (not the entire roof) before adding another coat of black.
- The interior was originally blue. Someone before me changed it to black and while it looks to be well done, it is wearing off in spots, namely the arm rests, kick panels and the lower front corner of the door panels. It would bee easy to touch up, it just didn't bother me enough to do it.
All pictures taken April 2022
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