Backfiring out exhaust

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69phish

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So I decided to check the timing on my 440 in a 69 barracuda. I could not retard it enough because of vacuum pod so moved the oil gear to get more adjustment on distributer. Now can't get it to run without backfiring out of the exhaust. I pulled the #1plug and bumped it until ait blew out. Then made sure rotor was pointing to #1 wire.then double checked firing order and it is still backfiring. Not constantly but sporadically.i checked the coil and it is 1.7 and 10000. I'm at a loss. Any suggestions?
 
I could be wrong, but it sounds like you went the wrong way with the gear.
Put it back where it was and see if it fires up cleanly. If it does, then just move the plug wires to the next terminal and you'll have all the adjustment you need.
 
Tried it. Didn't work. Theoretically it doesn't matter as long as the rotor points to #1 and firing order is correct? The distributer has built in electronic ignition. Maybe it's bad? Idk
 
I have had a burnt valve cause a backfire.
 
It DOES NOT MATTER here where the drive gear is.
When you reinstall the distributor, you will have to retime the distributor and the wires and then you are right back where you started, having solved nothing.
You could have solved the proble much easier by just rotating the the distributor to the next lode on the cam, and rewiring the cap to match.

Hoewever, the starting point is to always verify the marks on your balancer are correct. If the ring has slipped , then you gotta fix that problem first. To that end, prove that TDC/compression on #1 cylinder is synchronized to TDC on the Balancer. Then check your timing-chain slack. Typically 2 to 4 degrees will be fine. By the time you get to 10 degrees, your cam is late to the party, and so is your ignition timing. The timing you can put back, but the cam is still late. The cam drives the Distributor gear, which opens the points. You can retime the Distributor to idle, but when you rev it up it may not fire to the right tower.
So figure that out. Your timing light should/might tell you about that spark scatter, but defeat the VA first.
If you have electronic ignition then just substitute the word "pole-piece" for points.

Your coil specs are close enough.
 
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I understand some of what you said but would it still backfire if rotor is pointing at #1 plug and firing order is right? It ran fine before I moved the distributer gear but now it doesn't. I was thinking maybe distributor is bad?
 
Distributor is not bad. Electronic distributors can have so much wear that the rotor cuts into the pole-piece,as long as the pick-up is still generating it's tiny signal, the engine will keep right on running.
Now;
the spark from the coil has to jump from the rotor-tip, to the cap-tower as it is whizzing by. If the rotor is not in the right position, the spark can "choose" the path of least resistance, which could be an adjacent tower. If it's the previous tower which is at the end of it's Power stroke, AND
If you are running log-manifolds,
but there is still unburned fuel in the gases when the exhaust pops open, AND the coil pops it off, Badaboom, you get a pop in the exhaust simultaneous with a power loss.
Another thing that can cause popping in a log manifold, unrelated to the rotor, is this. If the ignition timing is late; it is possible for Not all the air-fuel charge to finish burning in the cylinder, and so, it finishes burning in the log. That's fine. But if for whatever reason, the air fuel charge in an adjacent cylinder does not all get burned and enters the log, uncombusted, it can explode there, and there is your pop.

with headers;
the same pop can happen if the head flange is leaking, and the header sucks in fresh air. But in this case, there is no power loss; just the bothersome racket..

Ok now let's say you give it plenty of Idle Advance, say 12*. To the engine, this is still terribly retarded, it may be wanting say 25 or 30.
So now, you put it in gear, and gently drive away. Say by 1500rpm, the V-can is still not on line, but the mechanical has climbed to 18*, but the engine is wanting over 40*. so it's still terribly retarded. Say you get to 2500, and the Vcan has brought in 12*, and the mechanical is up to 12, and you started with 12, so now you're up to 36, but the engine, to complete the burn in it's cylinders, wants 55*; so it's still terribly retarded! So this whole time, the Power stroke has been delivering still-burning exhaust into the Logs/headers, and maybe the popping has been going on the whole time. Now, just step on it a lil harder, and the timing requirement drops to 36, which is what it's getting, and so the popping ceases.
Ok great so you step on it a lil harder and the Vcan drops out, leaving you with 24, but the engine wants at least 30*, so it's stinking retarded again!

Now, what if your intake is sucking air from some place other than the airhorn?, and some cylinders go too lean to catch fire on time, or don't catch fire at all. Now you got a slug of fuel charge entering the exhaust, and if/when it catches fire, badaboom, there's another pop.
 
I understand some of what you said but would it still backfire if rotor is pointing at #1 plug and firing order is right? It ran fine before I moved the distributer gear but now it doesn't. I was thinking maybe distributor is bad?
Silly boy; you said it yourself;
" it ran fine until I moved the distributor gear".
Therefore, there was nothing wrong with the distributor, before you moved it. What could have possibly killed it while it lay on the bench?
I'll say it again, you can chase that gear all around the clock, and the only thing that will change is to which tower the spark will go. Rewire the cap and badaboom, back in action.

Now, here's another secret;
if the reluctor "fell off", notice it has two internal "keyways". It therefore fits two ways. If you reinstall it wrong, you're gonna have a heck of a bad experience, trying to restart the engine. Look closely. Adjacent to the keyways are arrows. One fires to the left and the other to the right. Choose the one that when at 12 o'clock, points in the direction of the distributor shaft rotation. These are there to help put the rotor in the right place, relative to the tower, when the pick-up fires.
 
Well I changed the plugs wires and the distributer and now it is running fine. Thanks for all the help!
 
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